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  1. #141
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    Couldn't find any thin diameter metal pipes this morning, as all the shops that would sell to hobbyists or dairy industry (who use the < 10mm pipes here) were closed. Managed to find some short lengths of clear vinyl garden hose tubing that perfectly slotted over the existing thick tubing and each other. So instead of metal pipe I've got 3 snug overtubes atop the inner tubing with the filament, picture those russian stacking dolls.

    Cross your fingers this works!

  2. #142
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    ... I was thinking coat hanger wire and tape if nothing else Let's see if thing stay where they belong now.

    As to clogs; that is when filament is not advancing even though the driver is advancing. It loads the bowden tube and releases. This is what we hear as clicks.
    If you think about it, it is also missing material in the print. It is filament that had not advanced. So if this happens throughout a print, this skipping, you will have voids in the print. Clicking is bad. You probably hadn't heard this sound. Once you finish securing the tube, run a purge. It is notorious for extruding faster than the extruder can keep up with.

  3. #143
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    Print 1 succeeded, as expected. Print 2 also succeeded, with is a first in a long time. Print 2 was also a longer and more detailed print, since Print 1 provided me with the last of the small components of my project. Ran out of filament, and the next lot is stuck in the mail somewhere. Will see if print 3 also works - if it does then we've arrived at the solution

    - - - - - - - - - -

    My russian doll approach to reinforcing the cartridge is working. Aside from snaps in the feed line (between reel and motor) I have had no failures since adding the extra layers of tubing.

    Today I got a T14 error so will have to dismantle the cartridge, check the pushnut and clean the nozzle, before trying again - but at least I've solved the "blocking" issue i was having xD

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  5. #144
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    Sounds promising Crucias.

    Don't forget that temp errors also happened if you mismatch chips with nozzles.
    Meaning, if a nozzle is in place and chip is not, Txx error; chip in place and no nozzle, again Tnn error.

  6. #145
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    Huh alright. Cleaning my nozzle and filing some of the caked oxidization off it (I use a lighter during maintenance as I don't own a heat gun) was all that was required this time round. Test print (a bunch of clips that join my project segments together) worked like a charm, so onwards with the main prints. Only 6 more 7 hour prints to go and I am done xD

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  8. #146
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    I just had a similar experience. I had a 15 hour print job, that failed at about hour 8 or 9. Seeing what happened it sounds like what is going in with your situation. I decided to break it down into smaller chunks so that I am not printing for so long, but I need to look at your solution more closely.

  9. #147
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    I just had a print fail because the filament was crossed and tied itself in a knot

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  11. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddybu View Post
    I just had a similar experience. I had a 15 hour print job, that failed at about hour 8 or 9. Seeing what happened it sounds like what is going in with your situation. I decided to break it down into smaller chunks so that I am not printing for so long, but I need to look at your solution more closely.
    Well I bribed my friend with an Ender 3 to print the 15 hour prints xD

    EDIT: I did manage to print those replica gun parts at 13 hours each, but that was before my latest round of improvements to the printer parts. I just got lucky on the feeding and blocking.

    So far my solution is reinforce the tubing between the cartridge and bulkhead, I use short lengths of varying diameter hose pipe from a hardware store. Including the original 2 lengths of PTFE tubing (inner and outer), I have 4 layers, all snug fits and needed to be forced together with pliers and filament. I also reem the nozzle out with a set of allen keys and acupunture needles, the latter heated with a zippo. Finally, I use (seeing) glass cleaning wipes to keep the nozzle surface relatively clean, and the file part of finger nail clippers to remove dried lenses of filament off the nozzle tip.

    My print bed is covered in 3M Blue Masking tape (the paper stuff that has a slight crocodile skin texture) and kids glue sticks, applied across the whole print area but liberally applied across corners to reduce curl. The glue dries a bit by the time the printer starts printing, but the heat of the filament somewhat reactivates it so it still has an effect. I probably get 20-30 hours of printing out of tape before I have to replace it, bar those I damage when removing prints.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    I just had a print fail because the filament was crossed and tied itself in a knot
    Bugger! This Marvle 3D stuff seems to be prone to snapping, was hell for my friends Ender 3 which doesn't have as much PTFE tubing protection on the feed path. Most of my snaps have been my own fault - caused by rotating it too much when feeding or disconnecting reels.

  12. #149
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    3D Systems PLA filament will snap while you're sleeping Its because of the change in shape from wound to straight. This stresses the filament and causes micro-fractures. Works great while printing but when resting, not so much.

    Something weakened your original tube for it to not withstand normal pressures. I use the original setup on all my carts and although it deflects a little, say 5-6mm, it never is allowed fold on itself to the point where the tube came out of the bulkhead. Sounds like you got a handle on it.

    I think 'crepe' is the right term of the wrinkly paper. Glue is always a good backing on the tape. Someone mentioned gaffers tape for the stronger glue bond once. Gaffers tape appears to be more like duct tape.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 03-31-2020 at 09:38 PM.

  13. #150
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    I suspect the issue with my original tube is I have that hole cut in the top of the cartridge so there was more freedom of movement available to it. Those who's bribed minions don't cut holes in the wrong place will probable be alright. I had the same issue with 3 over-tubes, hence my suspicion of my cartridge alterations.

    I tried gaffers tape and found it didn't get as good adhesion as the textured masking tape. I also found different brands had different levels of microtexture on the masking tape, and the only one which really worked consistently for me was 3M - which unfortunately happens to be the most expensive available. Go figure right?

    As for your 3D PLA, it knows you're about to melt its face off and force it through a tortuously small hole so it is understandably trying to make a break for it. Ba dum tish.

 

 

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