Thanks Thanks:  10
Likes Likes:  10
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 11 of 16 FirstFirst ... 910111213 ... LastLast
Results 101 to 110 of 156
  1. #101
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    2,631
    Post Thanks / Like
    Do'h... I thought you were running the new bowden setup. Now I get it. Yes, you want a good snug fit of the core to the clip.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Try running 2 cores, 2 housings, and 4 clips all at once. I see some thinning in the core that looks like a printing artifact from not having enough parts to print.

  2. Thanks CruciasNZ thanked for this post
  3. #102
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    89
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ran 2 cores, 2 hotends and 2 cooling towers at once and the central cores are much better formed, the grooves are more pronounced both vertically and horizontally. Also the kebab skewers seemed to do the trick, I can insert nozzles again without much force. Currently printing the nozzle push nut depth guide you posted in another thread, as it'll be far superior to my positively medieval method involving sockets (from socket wrench set), a hammer, and some pliers

  4. #103
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    2,631
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ah, yes, that is one of our good buddy Don came up with. Works very well!

  5. Likes CruciasNZ liked this post
  6. #104
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    89
    Post Thanks / Like
    Aye, I turned over the print and it says "By Dom" on the bottom. Cheeky bugger making everyone's printers autograph his work xD

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Dammit, must have gotten to nearly 11.5 of the 12 hour print and the nozzle blocked. How frustrating

  7. #105
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Earth.
    Posts
    235
    Post Thanks / Like

  8. #106
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    2,631
    Post Thanks / Like
    That's a bold print Crucias. Did you figure out the reason it got blocked?

  9. #107
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    89
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looks like a retraction got blocked, there was a wide part of the filament in the tube within the hotend, and none at the nozzle tip as all that could leak out due to heat and gravity did. I left one of the 210's alone in Buddy's program, so i think that contributed. Was really simple to fix too, so could have been a fluke

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Hmm 6 hour print this time, jammed near the end on the fine detail (as opposed to structural) section. Haven't pulled it apart yet but I imagine I'll find the same thing, a retraction jammed in the PTFE tubing within the nozzle, and between the jam and the tip is essentially drained of filament.

    Have you ever had a consistent jamming problem like this with the altered cartridges? I've been using Buddy's program to increase the temps from 200/205/210 to 215, and leaving the sub 180's alone.

  10. #108
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    2,631
    Post Thanks / Like
    Most of my prints run for 4 hours or less. I've had filament related issues with 3D Solutech pasting a 'glaze' at the end of the 42mm tube (extruder end). This becomes a heat-restriction and tries to reduce the aperture. This basically reduces the filament feed to be similar to the exit aperture. I've run 3 different spools of 3D Solutech Real White PLA. The second one was really bad about this. I could see in prints when I needed to intervene. But still, that was in the range of 40 hours of printing between maintenance. Other additives in other brands will have their own quirks. I still like 3D Solutech but it is one of the things to watch for and learn about. Certainly a filament like this could use a bit more temperature. I haven't tried that to see if that helps move this 'glazed' material along.

    This scenario where your hot end maintains plastic that doesn't melt will cause more problems for prints with a lot of retractions going on. I will state that a print that is going to run for 6-12 hours should first have a standard maintenance on the nozzle performed. This is a decent cleaning of the tip and making sure the 42mm tube is clear and still fits snug in the nozzle core. This also includes cleaning the ID of the stainless tube near the aluminum nozzle where filament and fillers can bleed around the Teflon tube.

    Over time you will figure out the unwanted characteristics of your filaments. 3DS filament oozes a sticky goo. 3D Solutech can present a 'glaze'... Anyone seen any other consistent anomalies?

  11. #109
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Earth.
    Posts
    235
    Post Thanks / Like
    Is it possible you need to lessen the retractions? TD, didn't you do something like this to reduce blobbing, i.e., cut retractions in half?

  12. #110
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    2,631
    Post Thanks / Like
    There are certainly techniques in the print files that helps but the system should be able to keep up with default prints, especially PLA.

    Crucias, what Buddy is referring to is removing the 'stretch compensation' from the retraction command M227 and M228. Our 4mm bowden tubes stretch less than the stock 2.8mm tubing. So we can also retract less, and less violently than the original settings. That is why I requested this function in Buddy's editor.

    On these same lines, the Ekocycle slicer is much gentler on the retraction settings. Have a look next time you are in the editor.

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •