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  1. #61
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    That GITD Green makes a wicket setup. I did a nozzle in GITD-G but haven't used it yet. The filament is surprisingly easy on the nozzle. I know most GITD filaments get a reputation of being abrasive and I've seen some with a pretty aggressive texture.

    Buggers from wiping are often to blame for a snag that somehow disturbs the start of a new print. Also that sudden shock of hitting a cold plate. I use a heat gun as a means to take the chill of the plate. Not hot! That's hard on the magnets. But change the temp up 20-30 degree is less thermal shock to the initial trace. Preheating seems to help reduce the premature tendency to curl using ABS, and also PETG to a lesser degree.

    Thanks I appreciate you working through it here on the forum. That is a lot of words to unclog a cartridge Six pages!

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    ... correction, seven pages

    Can't leave this without salvaging the tubing...

    salvage.PNG

    Bike spoke is a solid fit. The small tubing should just slip right on there but you'll feel no play.
    The core is a tight fit. It is meant to. It generates friction for heat to restore the original shape even if seriously damaged.
    It's work but this isn't something you find in the corner hobby supply. And the segments will need replacement sometimes, but most times, this rejuvenation works wonders.

  2. #62
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    I ended up using the first core I printed because for some reason the cores wouldn't insert into the second one (with the more intact bottom). I think it warped slightly. Still, working on the backup nozzle so all good.

    I usually warm the plate by sticking it to the side of a heater for a bit, warms it through the casing of the heater (instead of cooking it by attaching it to the vents). I am going to build myself a Lack enclosure over Xmas to better control temperature and airflow (while also dampening noise) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2864118

    It may be 7 pages, but it was 7 pages of reasoned discussion and valuable guidance

  3. #63
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    Indeed it was. thank you

    I take sandpaper on a tube and just touch up the bore. If it is too far off I just print another. I've squished things while the part was still warm. Distorted it notably.

  4. #64
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    Resurrecting this thread as I've only just been able to re-establish my printer and get going again. Test print after levelling and gapping worked fine, but about a third of the way into my first serious print with the new hotend the core popped out of the casing and I ended up with a spaghetti mess. Guess the clip wasn't functioning properly.

    Fiddling around with it looks like the clip I used was slightly thinner than the others I have lying around, not sure how that happened but murphy always finds a way.
    Last edited by CruciasNZ; 12-28-2019 at 03:17 AM.

  5. #65
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    It was originally designed or filament. The print of the clip just made things easier. Never had one pop off though. Nice work

    But wait... if the bowden tube is properly installed, there should not have been any place for the core to go making the clip unnecessary?
    Now it is a mystery
    Last edited by TommyDee; 12-28-2019 at 04:04 AM.

  6. #66
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    I'm part way through dismantling and fixing the cartridge, and I believe I have a better idea what happened. I think my Z Gap might have been a bit tight, and somehow there was vertical pressure on the nozzle, which combined with the pressure exerted by the spring, and pushed the core backwards allowing it to disengage from the hotend part. Alternatively, it could have just been vibration - not much force is required to disengage the core even with the clip
    Last edited by CruciasNZ; 12-28-2019 at 09:30 PM.

  7. #67
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    Oh duh... you are using the quick fitting. True, there is not much engagement. You could try scaling the clip to maybe 110%. I suspect you have a few extra clearances. Definitely consider reprinting the core in case it came out a bit small. PLA prints tend to be a bit more slender than ABS parts.

  8. #68
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    I had another housing that was too tight for the nozzle washer and the core to fit into without significant force, so I had discarded it in favour of the easier one to assemble. I was able to re-assemble the replacement fitting using the tighter housing through careful application of force and run the purge jet routine successfully. If this one needs a hammer to disassemble, I bid the spring good luck in repeating that prank.

  9. #69
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    LOL - yea, I do go through the effort to make sure they slide well. Some sandpaper on a tube for cleaning up snags on the ID and/or just work the OD of the core below the catch. It was a real challenge to maintain a reasonable wall thickness on the housing. Typically there is just a booger or a small shift that just needs to knocked down on the ID.

  10. #70
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    Printing the core at 101% was enough to let the clip provide a solid lock it would seem. So onwards to modding my PLA cartridge

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    Rather than necro-ing another post, or starting another one, just adding a query onto this one.

    I printed the platelock STL off thinverse using ABS and it warped, so swapped to PLA and increased the scale to 101% as a trial; the magnets fit perfectly and snugly in the holes, but the resultant print had gaps and disconnects in the truss components. Looking this thing up online would stick it with the label "under extrusion", but the glue mounts are perfect and other prints with this PLA seem to be coming out fine.

    Would I be right in diagnosing this is more of an issue with how the Cube software is slicing the STL? Therefore the only solution would be to fatten up the truss components in blender? or just suck it up and buy sandpaper for printing the platelock at the default size?

    SQEG9675[1].jpg

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    Couldn't fit two photos in one post. The first one makes the gaps look a lot worse than they were on the plate before removal (post-printing)

    Attachment 3508

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