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  1. #71
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    Those are slicer issues. Mine came out the same way. They are perfectly functional as thin elements. Probably preferred
    PLA is the right material for this.

  2. #72
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    Ah, that puts my mind at ease. I was thinking I'd tactically apply plastic glue (the stuff I use to stick Warhammer models together) to correct the disconnects, then mount it to the plate with a more sturdy glue - probably araldite as it bonds well on both plastic and metal.

  3. #73
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    I'm using Shoe-Goo since it is removable. You only need the glue on the outer periphery pads. Be sure the piece lifts off easily enough before gluing.

    To attach, I put the piece over the magnets with the shoe-goo on the pads sitting a little low. Place the plate, center it on the magnets where it wants to rest, and pinch the pads to the plate. Let cure for about 12 hours. Have a screw driver handy to help leverage all the pads in place.

    Shoe-Goo is the ultimate hobby adhesive. It peels off clean. You can make a ring on a wooden table and lift it off whole the next day. The hold is excellent! Super long term... Shoe-Goo does continue to shrink throughout its service life. I know that in 15 years is hard like epoxy and just about as permanent at that point.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 01-09-2020 at 10:30 PM.

  4. #74
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    Welp had my first dramatic failure today. Looks like the tiny bit of original tubing that spans from the nozzle to the B2B core caused a jam, resulting in backing up of filament. Also it would seem it managed to damage the B2B hotend as it jammed and I had to dismantle it insitu. Luckily it was my PLA cartridge, so got my ABS one printing a new hotend mount as I type.

    I've been printing this at 0.2mm but there are a lot of mould lines I'll have to fill in with Liquid Green Stuff (Games Workshop / Warhammer product for filling in mould lines and sculpting). Might give 0.07mm a go next weekend, see if it closes up those gaps some.

    WIP Ace of Spaces.jpg

  5. #75
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    Nice. Yes, Teflon has a way of getting around.

  6. #76
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    I'm still getting a fair bit of jamming occuring due to retractions blocking the small length of original PTFE tubing inserted into the nozzle. This is what you were using the coat hanger for right? Widening the inner diameter of the existing tubing to reduce blockages within the nozzle?

  7. #77
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    I don't use the barrel nut. Just a 42mm length of tubing. But I also make sure that 1) the tubing fits snug in the core of the housing, and 2) that the interface doesn't have a chamfer in the case of the fitting version of the nozzle. What can happened is that the tube is being pushed into the nozzle end and the end is gathering effectively reducing the diameter. Another element that can do this is leached goo on the outside of the tube. Before I went fitting-less. I also noted that a chamfer in the fittings could do the same as what I just described. With the B2B solution, only a loose fit in the core or a tube too long could be causing this. I have thrown out 'dead' tubes before. They simply don't work anymore and a replacement solves the issue. That must be something with how the piece behaves over time when heated and stressed.

  8. #78
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    I'll take some pictures next time things jam up and need cleaning, but I don't have the barrel nut either. What I've got is Xmm of the old PTFE tubing inserted as far as it will go into the nozzle, with the other end inserted ~5mm into the central core (the bit that goes inside the B2B hotend replacement).

    Can you typically make it through a full real of filament before having to replace or clean the tubing?

  9. #79
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    Definitely get multiple Kg per maintenance cycle. Yes, you may have tubing a bit too long. Remember the spring will collapse 0.2mm or or so. Too long a tube will smash the end into the funnel in the nozzle restricting the inside diameter. 42mm has been forgiving for me. And yes, it mates up with the B2B bowden tube in the nozzle core.

  10. #80
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    I think I use 20mm of tubing, with the end inserted into the central core but not enough to abut the larger bowden tube. My central core was too tight to put the 42mm tube all the way up, and I don't own a drill to fix the issue, so I cut the tube down to size. I reckoned it didn't need to abut because the filament is already inside the smaller tube.

    I've taken to running a purge cycle every time I boot the printer, and if it doesn't work properly I dismantle the nozzle and fix any blocks or restrictions in the inner tube. I suspect contaminants left on the end of the nozzle by the zippo I use to clear the nozzle manually has built up on the inside of the heater blocks, as it now requires notably more force to insert and remove the nozzles from the printer. My plan is to buy a tube cleaning bristle brush thing and start doing routine cleaning of the holes in the heater blocks. However, I thought I should ask if you've ever run into something similar?
    Last edited by CruciasNZ; 02-05-2020 at 07:24 AM.

 

 

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