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  1. #31
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    I rescued my Cube 3 from being eWasted. Work got two of them for innovation projects but soon ran afoul of the unreliability and shoved them in storage. I happened to ask if I could borrow it over Christmas a few days before it was getting scrapped, so it was bequeathed to me. I fixed the PLA cartridge and applied the firmware hack, trialed lots of adhesion techniques, and eventually managed to get it working for me reliably until I ran into cartridge jams.

  2. #32
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    That's excellent! I'm an old dumpster diver myself. These days, eBay is my dumpster ;p

  3. #33
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    One humans eWaste is anothers nerd nirvana

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    First attempt at printing the core sort of worked but has issues. Bottom is a bit messy but gets its stuff together after the first layer or two, could probably sand that off or change the tape & glue to correct. Bigger issue is the thread wouldn't take the push fitting, from the feel if it I am guessing that either the thread printed wonky or that it does not match that on my fitting; when screwing it in the push fitting starts to cross thread almost instantly. I'll have another go at printing it tomorrow, process of elimination - see if it's the printer or me having a wonky M6

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  5. #34
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    It is never easy to mate a printed thread. Thread chasers help. I have an M6 screw with two bites taken out of the beginning threads using a Dremel cutoff wheel. This cleans up the start of the thread and takes out buggers. You shouldn't need that but you do want to give great care to starting the thread the first time.
    Let me set one up with a little more clearance...

    Oh the bottom... That little elephant foot is normal. It is from 4 traces crowding. You probably have a little less gap than I run. Cleaning that up with a hobby knife or sandpaper is perfectly acceptable.

    The attached file has the core opened up 0.1mm diameter greater and the thread is opened up 0.1mm. The start of the thread is in the blob recess.

    Now I am flying blind as I didn't print this one. Knowing what you know now, just let me know what to adjust and by how much.

    And remember these things have an orientation on the build plate. The seam must go toward the two recesses.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-29-2019 at 02:35 AM.

  6. #35
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    Good to know the weird first layer is normal. Thank you for resizing that, I will have a go with it once the nozzle finished correctly (touch wood)

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    And remember these things have an orientation on the build plate. The seam must go toward the two recesses.
    Requesting a translation for dummies here. All I did when I printed it was offset it from the center of the build plate by the same amount (say ~ 1.5-2 inches) in both X and Y, and then the same amount in the other direction I centered the cooling tower you sent me (rescaled to be the same height). I did not rotate the print in any way - was that in error?

    My blond moment was not realising the outer ring on the core print was a cooling tower, so next time I won't add the extra one xD

  7. #36
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    This is a design element that I add where a bore must be at-least a specific size. They are the notches taken out of the inner diameters. They are means to absorb the excess material from blobs. So for the left extruder, the seam and the recess are on the left which is my default design orientation when I think of it. You can always tell from the top view if this is oriented correctly. This is true for the nozzle housing as well. This is one reason I often provide print files as well since that will already be taken care of.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-29-2019 at 03:26 AM.

  8. #37
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    Ah gotcha, so since I am printing with the left nozzle I do not need to rotate the print. That makes sense

    The main part of the hot end looks like it came out well. I can see through the little holes for the U Clip clearly. Second photo shows how the bottom layer came out on the nozzle, but the same thing happened on the core. Glad to know that's not unusual, as other small roughly cylindrical prints I have done had similar starts and I cancelled them thinking they'd failed to adhere.





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    Alright, second printing of the core done. Fitting will still not enter the hole. Update: Same issue with the bulkhead. One of my dinner guests suggested it might be being caused by M6 differing, i.e. Imperial vs Metric

    Went looking for one of those tools that can measure interior and exterior dimensions, only to find my Father's one is missing one half of the bit for measuring interiors. Typical! Exterior is 5.5-6mm on the outer rim of the thread, and the interior between threads looks to be 4.5-5mm.

    Is there anything I can do to help in troubleshooting?
    Last edited by CruciasNZ; 09-29-2019 at 08:10 AM.

  9. #38
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    Man, photo bucket is spamming your images. You can upload directly from the computer to the forum. You were printing this with sidewalks?

    Metric pitch is 1mm for M6. It is more like distortion that you have to get through when screwing in the fitting. It's a tight fit.

    Do a dry fitting of the clip through those holes. The holes are means to be 2mm.

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    The model has an ID of 5.3mm and od of 6.3mm on the threads. That's some really good measuring on the fitting. Yes, your numbers represent the proper proportions for an M6 thread. Did you want me to try for another 0.1mm increase in diameters?

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    This is what we're aiming for

    20190929_123503 (1).jpg20190929_123245.jpg

    Notice that core only shows 3 traces but all know there are crowded into the space.
    This does cause a little excess filament.
    There are some other magic numbers for the Cubify slicer:
    2-wall 0.9mm width
    4-wall 1.8mm width

    These are the numbers I try to use for wall thicknesses and things.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-29-2019 at 11:50 AM.

  10. #39
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    Sorry about the photos, used PB because the forum wouldn't let me upload; however I reckon that was probably a filesize limitation. I cropped them and it worked.

    After trimming the weird lower layer off the clip and core they fit where they're supposed to (which kind of blows my mind, this is the first time I've printed such small things that connect). If we could try a final increase on the threads I'd appreciate it. If that fails to work I think my best approach from there would be to mount the core in a vice and aggressively screw the fitting in - chewing through the thread. Alternatively I could go back to the original M6 one you tweaked for me and buy a tool that is designed to install a thread (can't remember the part name right now, it's too early in the morning and the clocks went forward yesterday xD ).

    As an aside, is the level of distortion I am getting on the first layer (refer top pick) normal for these parts? Normally I'd question if my gap was correct, but the subsequent layers are some of the best printing layers I've ever had which makes me wonder.

    IMG_20190930_084250.jpg
    IMG_20190930_084308.jpg

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    O no sidewalks sorry

  11. #40
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    I have to agree, that first layer is screwy. I've had a similar issue but my issue was a design flaw. Had a leg in the design which made the entire design sit higher and not flush on the bed.

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