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  1. #81
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    No, mine really is pretty much maintenance free with some dependency on material. 3DS PLA is particularly messy.

    The black cover does a lot to keep the heater block clean. That is its purpose. It seals against the nozzle. ...amazing as that is. I do keep that clean when removing the nozzle. Buildup there is not good.

  2. #82
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    You can sort of see my setup here. First picture shows how long the tubing was inside the nozzle. I have just changed to a longer tubing (more on that later) and can't seem to get it deeper so I think I have sufficient penetration on this end. You can also see from the first picture that I only had about 5mm extruding from the nozzle to collect the spring and seat inside the core.

    After some experimentation with what I have available I realised one of my alan keys is roughly the same OD as the tubing, and another roughly the same ID as tubing. So I forcefully reamed out the inside of the core using the alan key and the pliers, and now can get the tubing up inside the core. I managed to salvage a longer section of tubing, cut it to 42mm, and it seems to penetrate the same length into the nozzle but a substantially longer length into the core. I reamed out this tube with the other alan key, and filament can be pushed and pulled through it (while inside the core) with only a small amount of force (no more than any other length of this tubing).

    I also decided to ream out the old tubing to clear the block, and from the second picture you can just about make out something that looks like the inner tubing within the pliers grip. This is actually the blockage, it coated the end of the tubing and then backed up against it. The reason for the awkward dogleg in the filament is that it backed up that far, forced the core upwards despite the clip, and was in the process of migrating the core vertically as more filament fed. Glad I checked on it after finishing dinner.

    I am wondering if I am printing the PLA just a tad on the cold side for the filament I am using, as I do not get this issue with the 3DS GITDG ABS you've seen me use (it just curls like mad). The vendor had "190-230C" listed as the print temperature for the filament reels I have been buying.

    One other learning from this exercise is that the PLA clips are slightly narrower than the ABS clips. So the ABS clips seem to get better purchase on the core and keep it in place better.

    IMG_0897.jpg

    IMG_0898.jpg

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Aye something definitely wrong with the bottom end of the heater mount. My ABS cartridge was being difficult to remove, and you can see the nozzle actually pulled out of the replacement hotend and left its flange behind. Had to turn the printer upside down and use that small alan key to push the nozzle out of the constrained hole. I've seen the PLA sort of clump at the bottom of the nozzle and only flow freely when I use pliers to yank it down, so I still think some got up inside the bottom part of the hole the nozzle sticks through.

    IMG_0899.jpg
    Last edited by CruciasNZ; 02-05-2020 at 09:27 AM.

  3. #83
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    Aha, yes, I've seen that. That is the filament. Maybe 5 more degrees on the print file and that should go away.

    You can also flatten the push nut some to make it fit tighter. They do get loose sometimes. Just pinch it between a couple of coins.
    Nice extraction BTB

    You might also give the push nut a little extra length. I normally set it at around 3mm from the end to the grippers. It will adjust on its own when installed. This is part of the 42mm.

  4. #84
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    I've got the temperature altering program Mythandar created, but one thing that wasn't clear from the instructions - what is the default 3DS PLA cartridge temperature? I've done a lot of google fu to find out and can't locate any information on what the default printing temps for 3DS PLA is, therefore I don't know what to add 5 C to xD

    Any chance you could drop me that hint?


    - - - - - - - - - -

    Had a flash of inspiration, and downloaded Buddybu's toolkit thing and opened a file for printing a single circle that only has a few layers. It has a lot more temperatures listed than I thought. Would I be right in assuming here that the 205C is the first layer, and 200C is the rest of the print? I've seen a lot of web resources mention that the first PLA layer should be a bit hotter than the rest.

    Not sure why there's a ton of other temps with "1" as their count, so I am assuming Cube treats 1 as a 0 (i.e. this temperature is not used for this file)

    Capture.PNG

  5. #85
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    Hmm... I haven't seen too many files that look like this. My thought would be that the 225 is for the initial dump of filament to "prime" the system, but the 205 has be boggled. I would assume that your 235 is your first layer and the 200's are the remaining. Are you printing a raft by chance with this? (I know the box isn't checked -- that's an outstanding issue).

  6. #86
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    I'm printing at 70 microns, almost solid, diamonds, and with supports & sidewalks off.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    This is the output for printing the B2B hotend replacement at 200 microns, almost solid, diamond, and no supports, sidewalks, or cooling towers. So this model is a lot taller and requires more layers

    Hotend.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Confusingly, here is a file for one of my largest prints. Basically a WW2 pillbox (concrete machine gun nest, not a box to hold meds) that takes up. It takes up almost all the plate and is slightly taller than the nozzle. It has less counts :/

    Buddy yer program is trolling me

    Bunker.PNG

  7. #87
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    Okay, so there are other layter when printing at 70 Microns. i also don't do that alot, but I will be starting to as I print game pieces and such. So, form what TD said,

    225 -> 220
    205 -> 200
    235 -> 230
    200 -> 195

    There may be a small bug in my code, so if you do this, I would change the 200 -> 195 first, I've seen a couple of times where if you change the 205 to 200 and then the 200 to 195, you get the 205 and the 200's both becoming 195s. I haven't been able to replicate it with any regularity, but if you see it, let me know.

  8. #88
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    Clarifications:

    1) Tommy said add another 5 so I should be increasing 225 to 230 right?

    2) Just ignore the 155 and 145 lines?

  9. #89
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    oops, yeah, +5. Yeah, you can ignore 155 and 145.

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  11. #90
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    Thanks for your input Buddy, I'll use this system for awhile and hope it resolves my jamming.

    I believe I have figured out my issue with the nozzles being hard to insert and remove from the heater block. When I inspected where the nut was on the PLA cartridge compared to a 3DS cartridge "unmodified" I noted the nozzle wasn't sticking out of the hole as far as it should have been. I feel like a moron for not noticing before, but now I know now I can watch for it. So thanks Tommy for your continued input

 

 

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