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  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
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    Replacement Cubepro Hotend

    Came across this on eBay the other day, looks like someone in Brazil has developed a replacement hotend for the Cubepro with replaceable nozzles, looks interesting, would like to see a Youtube video of it work first before investing $$ though.
    I have been toying with this idea myself, though if this one works would save a lot of effort.
    s-l1600.pngs-l1600.jpg

  2. #2
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    I saw that too. Not itching to get rid of the stock nozzle yet. I suspect threading an OEM extruder wouldn't be hard. They already give you a hex to hold onto!

    The question for the eBay offer is what is that heater... DIY or a recognized configuration? Within spec?
    Also no thermister shown. CubePro reads at the fins.

  3. #3
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    Probably hand wound heater, should work if done correctly. The thermistor needs to be as close to the nozzle as it can get, The component in the fins is a thermal fuse, if you get a nozzle that wonít heat and get temp errors this will be blown.

  4. #4
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    Learn something new every day Didn't know we had a fuse there too. Makes perfect sense though! Thanks

  5. #5
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    Tommy has mentioned that the 3ds abs runs 10 degrees hotter than most on the market and since the topic of new/different hot ends has come up...

    Has anyone lied to their printer to get the temp down the ten degrees needed for different abs? Using this technique? Leading the machine to believe it is ten degrees hotter than it really is? Do we know how 3ds calculates the sticker values?
    Last edited by TheUnrulySquash; 10-24-2019 at 07:17 PM.

  6. #6
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    Very good question with regard to CubePro. Indeed I extrapolated the difference based on Cube3 performance. There it is absolutely easy to prove the difference. However, the machines are very different but the filament is the same.

    To explain the Cube3 side; Cube3 does very well, even with regard to 'blobs' or seem drool, the 3DS ABS does a beautiful job of making a 0.9mm tube. You trim that tube at the seam and separate the two sheets and you will see a near perfect set of layered filament without holes or imperfections. The pinnacle of 3DS Cubify! It really is a nice formula unaffected by our attempted mods.

    What about 3rd party ABS? Why do I consider that 'failed'? Simple; 3D Solutech sent me a sample of their ABS. I already had a spool of Midland Yellow ABS too. Had nothing but trouble with the Inland filament with regard to 'popping'. Very loud plosives that blow holes in your print. This was from before I had access to the re-coding the files (Thank you always swwinterry!). But if you did the same with the same tube, you would find tons of little 'blow holes' in the print. I tried baking the material and all sorts of things... yet, basically weak prints was the only result.

    Now the 3D Solutech stuff. Natural colored ABS was just luscious in presentation. I really wanted this to work but the same thing was happening. I threw up my hands until swwinterry published his encoder. That opened up a new world for Cube3. I turned the heat down anywhere from 10-15 degrees and whallah! ...success!
    This solved both the 3D Solutech ABS and the Inland ABS. I was seriously pleased with these results.

    Over time learned that the Cube3 Ekocycle profiles for PETG were just about perfect for 3rd party ABS. I started converting verbatim the Ekocycle files to Cube3 ABS files and they run near perfect side by side with other 3DS filament prints. The Ekocycle slicer is also a lot gentler on many aspects that the ABS slicer just powers through. This makes for better details and heat management as well.

    But this is all about Cube3... so what you may ask?
    At worst, my experience is anecdotal. The two machines are completely different machines. And this may well be a saving grace for CubePro. It is not a bowden machine. And that is one of its claims to fame (however much fame it deserves). That also means retractions are not nearly as wild as in the Cube3. It is this excessive retraction process that was pulling the air into the 3rd party ABS prints. But the temperature difference only exacerbated the 'plosive' issue. You will also notice that even using 3DS filament in CubePro, there is a mode where the temperature is reduced to 250C when making parts solid. I have not dared to run non-3DS filament in my CubePro yet. I am still trying to maximize my files for CubePro which means conversions. And that effort is still leaning heavily on converting Cube3 files to CubePro with a few common tweaks to the file. Buddybu's tools have really opened up using the Cube3 slicer options to make CubePro files. There is significant tweaking required to get extrusion rates under control but this is a viable option with obvious limitations.

    If we want to tweak CubePro files from the slicer, we are backdated to V1.87 slicers. It is the latest version we can see and manipulate. I see no reason not to try 3rd party ABS using v2.02 and seeing if there is a similar issue. Unfortunately, CubePro doesn't make a tube as simply as the Cube3 does. CubePro thin wall tubes tend to be quite solid and textured. But the plosives are distinctive and audible from a long ways off. If you can follow a particular layer trace and you see 'holes' or say a 1/2mm gap in the trace, you are experiencing what I saw in the Cube3.

    Bottom line; 3DS filament is a different formula than conventional ABS offerings out there.

    That's my story and I'm sticking to it
    Last edited by TommyDee; 10-24-2019 at 07:38 PM.

 

 

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