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  1. #1
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    ADHESIVE: What do you think is the best for the Cube3

    Hi, I would love to know what you folks think is the BEST adhesive to use on the Cube3 print plate. Also, what is the best way to use it: how much, does it need to dry thoroughly first, does heating the plate help, etc. All I have ever used is the supplied bottle of liquid glue, and that is not all that predictable or reliable. Thank you. Rob

  2. #2
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    I use Original Scotch Blue Masking Tape, and the sort of glue sticks kids take to primary school. Makes PLA stick like concrete, but pry off easy enough. Seems to only work for ABS in sauna like environments, even inside a photo tent (prevents drafts and sort of keeps the head in).

  3. #3
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  5. #4
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    Hi CruciasNZ, Thank you for the prompt feedback. I am curious though, how do you use the blue masking tape? It is only sticky on one side, correct? Which side of the blue tape do you print on: sticky or non-sticky, and if it is the sticky side do you fold it over onto itself???? Regarding the glue stick suggestion: there are many types, and brands, and compositions out there, i.e. permanent, re-positionable, etc. Can you be a bit more specific? And lastly, I print using ABS most of the time. Any suggestions for ABS plastic? Thanks again, Rob

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by robrook View Post
    Hi CruciasNZ, Thank you for the prompt feedback. I am curious though, how do you use the blue masking tape? It is only sticky on one side, correct? Which side of the blue tape do you print on: sticky or non-sticky, and if it is the sticky side do you fold it over onto itself???? Regarding the glue stick suggestion: there are many types, and brands, and compositions out there, i.e. permanent, re-positionable, etc. Can you be a bit more specific? And lastly, I print using ABS most of the time. Any suggestions for ABS plastic? Thanks again, Rob
    G'day mate,

    I print on the non-sticky side. It takes about 4 parallel runs of tape to cover the plate, with the ends folded round onto the back (and part of the two side tapes folded over the edge as well). This particular tape (i.e. specifically Scotch brand and specifically Original Blue Masking Tape product) has a quite a good tactile surface on the non-sticky side - I would describe as almost like alligator skin. I opted to go with this method as I couldn't find anywhere in NZ that sold the LokBuild surface Tommy mentioned and I didn't have enough time to import.

    Glue I use is the one at the following link

    https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/amo...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I found the ABS stuck to this tape (with this glue) reasonably well if printed in a small, well insulated, room that I pre-heated both the room and plate; I pre-heated the plate by sticking it (it is magnetic after all) to the side of an electric header's cowling (on a low heat, don't want to cook the magnets). I imagine the same would hold true of an enclosure, just have to get the air temperature over 25 Celcius. You also have to reduce drafts, especially during the first 5mm of printing height. Unfortunately even with this approach I still had minor curling of the edges on prints with non-rounded edges.

    I have heard that using an ABS Solution in a warm, draftless, environment is the best way to stick the ABS. I believe Tommy's video discusses that - from memory he applies it on top of his LokBuild with great success. My method works perfectly for PLA and is off-the-shelf, as everything comes from stores around where I live. I intend to shelf my remaining PLA until I build an enclosure and buy a LokBuild surface.
    Last edited by CruciasNZ; 01-13-2020 at 01:35 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention pre-heating plate

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  8. #6
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    A few options. Below are all ABS prints that remain flat. CubePro prints are in a 50F-someodd degree environment.

    Cube3 - during a print, the build plate picks up quite a bit of heat to the point of being hot in some occasions upon completion. Taking the chill off the plate before printing ABS is important. I now have a commercial heat gun from Harbor Freight that was all of $10. Being aluminum, the Cube 3 build plate helps keep temperatures equalized.

    I've had an ABS print crack half way up from internal stresses while still printing due to excess plate adhesion on LokBuild. Suspending a print fully relieves a lot of internal stresses like the soldier chess piece below. Even if you get 'flat' off a cool plate, it will still curl in short order. I have some fixtures that stayed glued flat on CubePro. Not 15 minutes at room temps, it pulled up at the corners. I have had good luck with designs keeping ABS flat too. The red 'island' print stayed amazingly flat due to stress distribution in the domed shape.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by TommyDee; 01-13-2020 at 05:42 AM.

  9. #7
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    Thank you

    Thank you for the detailed answer, in the "Kings" English: to the point and easy to understand! That was exactly what I needed to know. We do not have that type of glue stick here in New Jersey, but there are several I can choose from. I guess ABS is just going to be a problem. I had better luck using 3 to 4 layers of the dried liquid glue that came with the CUBE3, though it did make setting the Z gap a bit more difficult. Best regards, Rob

    Quote Originally Posted by CruciasNZ View Post
    G'day mate,

    I print on the non-sticky side. It takes about 4 parallel runs of tape to cover the plate, with the ends folded round onto the back (and part of the two side tapes folded over the edge as well). This particular tape (i.e. specifically Scotch brand and specifically Original Blue Masking Tape product) has a quite a good tactile surface on the non-sticky side - I would describe as almost like alligator skin. I opted to go with this method as I couldn't find anywhere in NZ that sold the LokBuild surface Tommy mentioned and I didn't have enough time to import.

    Glue I use is the one at the following link

    https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/amo...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I found the ABS stuck to this tape (with this glue) reasonably well if printed in a small, well insulated, room that I pre-heated both the room and plate; I pre-heated the plate by sticking it (it is magnetic after all) to the side of an electric header's cowling (on a low heat, don't want to cook the magnets). I imagine the same would hold true of an enclosure, just have to get the air temperature over 25 Celcius. You also have to reduce drafts, especially during the first 5mm of printing height. Unfortunately even with this approach I still had minor curling of the edges on prints with non-rounded edges.

    I have heard that using an ABS Solution in a warm, draftless, environment is the best way to stick the ABS. I believe Tommy's video discusses that - from memory he applies it on top of his LokBuild with great success. My method works perfectly for PLA and is off-the-shelf, as everything comes from stores around where I live. I intend to shelf my remaining PLA until I build an enclosure and buy a LokBuild surface.

  10. #8
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    Nay worries mate. I have seen in multiple places (including many of Tommy's posts and that video) that ABS Solution (a mix of your failed ABS prints dissolved in acetone) applies over a well textured surface has a much higher success rate for ABS prints. Something about it sticking better to itself than anything else.

    I have not explored adding rafts, but apparently they also aid greatly with ABS

    BTW, I have my printer inside one of these to prevent drafts affecting the print. A cheap stop-gap between nothing and a full enclosure

    https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shooti...8943473&sr=8-3

  11. #9
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    That would be called an "ABS slurry". Never went that route personally.

    BTW: CubeGlue can be thinned with water.

    I've not found a suitable alternative but I know there are some including glue sticks.

  12. #10
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    Honestly, with PLA, I use the lokbuild and Elmers X-Treme glue stick. I am able to print 4 or 5 items on one application, then I wash, dry and reapply... So far, very little adhesion issues, if anything, too much adhesion. For ABS, I always print with sidewalks.

    Which reminds me, I need to get the sidewalk/support buttons working in the UI completely...

 

 

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