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  1. #51
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Apr 2020
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    Great, I own a Dremel 3000 and 6300. Do you put the nozzle on a vise and cut it away? Also any ideas on cleaning the nozzle itself out? There are many "purge" filaments on the market, might give some a try...

  2. #52
    Super Moderator
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    Nov 2016
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    Cold pull has been rated a success. Haven't done it. I warm up the tip and reverse a small gauge uncoated wire in there. Reverses the globs after a few attempts. I also use a 3mm drill bit to go in the tubee 20mm deep at the shoulder to clean out leaching and gunk. The diamond blade will make short work of blunting the 3mm drill bit. This is to keep the tubing from puckering at the end.

  3. #53
    3D Printer Noob
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    Nov 2018
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    I'm printing PLA 190-220 on lock build. no Glue... Once in while clean it with glass cleaner...thats it works most of the time just nice 😀

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  5. #54
    Super Moderator
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    Yes, PLA and LokBuild work well together on several brands of PLA. I had a bit of trouble with 3D Solutech so I adopted the glue for all.

  6. #55
    3D Printer Noob
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    Nov 2018
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    not sure if I read this somewhere: can you still autolevel with the lokbuild?

    White piece of paper - that simple?

    ...and I should had never pressed auto level at all I can see .... and need to listen on clicks.... oh lord ...

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ok - making it super dark in the room helped to level straight with the lokbuild ... and indeed...it clicks here and there... i can live with that
    Last edited by Energyx; 05-28-2020 at 08:44 AM.

  7. #56
    Super Moderator
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    I have the orange Lokbuild and it levels fine without intervention.

    The tick-detection method of perfecting leveling is for the OCD among us. I'm not afflicted. I stopped at one tick dead center
    But I never auto-level again.

  8. #57
    Expert 3D Printer
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    May 2019
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    As an update to the GeckoTek EZ-STIK Cold printing surface. I am trying it on another printer, and so far, it seems to work okay. It is EASILY damaged and I have had many failures, unless I set the first layer to print almost glossy, as previously reported. I purchased 4 sheets and I am already on my second one as the first one was just not working. The second one seems to be working better, but if I am going to be changing these as often as I have so far, it will be far cheaper to go with blue tape for short term, and LokBuild for long term.

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  10. #58
    Super Moderator
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    Thanks for the update Buddy. I think there is a difference between thin PEI type sheets and more permanent solutions like Lokbuild. PEI sheets are meant to remove relatively cleanly. You might consider Lokbuild permanent as I have no idea at the cleanup you'd face with trying to remove it. It is the tenacious nature of the glue that makes it work so well. Yet it remains mildly flexible to help get a fingernail under the print to release it.

    Remember that beautiful copper colored PLA? Still love it. Loving it to an empty box quickly. And I can't find more. I order some Strong Hero Silk Gold to see if it was the same. It looks the same... but it isn't the same. The copper stuff sticks perfectly and hard to the Lokbuild|glue plates. The gold, not so much. Since this was a client build, this was a problem. Turns out I needed a little less diluted glue. A few more applications and less watering. I now need to make sure that when my fingers recharge the glue that I walk away with sticky fingers for a few more seconds than before. I've run a dozen prints with the gold filament now and it is working correctly now. Just another example of what can change and how we have to adapt. In this case, it is actually a good thing. I can worry less about my clients removing parts from the build plate We're going to be doing PETG next!

  11. #59
    Expert 3D Printer
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    May 2019
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    For this sheet, I have a special single layer print that I do to "clean" the sheet, and it kinda works.

  12. #60
    Super Moderator
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    Nov 2016
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    That sounds interesting.

 

 

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