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  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
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    She's Dead, Jim. Printer Resurrection thread

    Good Morning all!
    TL.DR pimp my ride.

    So here's the deal. IDK what's wrong with my printer, I just got back from a 1 year deployment and it's covered in dust, completely inoperable, and so I'll be doing a overhaul and cleaning.
    Gonna start with a firmware flash and update 'cause the screen's just not responding to anything, the person who used it said they did something to the firmware but can't remember what so I'm gonna wipe it and start from scratch.

    Questions I have for you experts:
    1: Is there a modified bed leveling knobs other than the default? I hate those things and I'd love something that works better

    2: Sources for 500x500mm perfectly flat glass? I'm certain the plate is warped.

    3: Any knowledge thread on flashing/updating the firmware on the CR-10S5?

  2. #2
    Super Moderator
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    Not an expert but will welcome you to the forum and welcome back home. Thank you for your service!
    1) Thingiverse?
    2) A recent thread did that. Also... 510x510 maybe? I like this supplier; mine were 170 x170 and dead flat and nicely finished. Worth asking about 500x500.
    https://www.go-3dprint.com/accessori...lphaasc&page=4

    3) Huh?

    I do different printers but hope that helps.

    edit: http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...s-plate-warped 300x300?
    Last edited by TommyDee; 01-21-2020 at 04:50 AM.

  3. #3
    3D Printer Noob
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    Update1:SHE LIVES

    I printed a benchy, made it about half-way through before globbing up on the extruder, not sure what's up but it may be running hot and sticking to things. Saw lots of stringing. Slicing it to add little z-hops might help. I'll try that

    Emailed for a 510mm borosilicate glass, we'll see if they have one

    Ignore item 3 lol

    The saga continues. I would love a horizontal worm-type screw to level the bed but idk i'd have to sketch something out and print it. Will keep you posted.

    Also on the books, I'd love to get an enclosure and some new print heads. Hardened heads for exotic prints

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I think i want to print a shroud for the print head to mount a plunger-type depth gauge

    - - - - - - - - - -

    https://www.go-3dprint.com/510mm-x-5...0-f049c6e392f7

    For Your Informentertainment

  4. #4
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    Bold choice on the glass! Should be good. Was going to warn you B-glass and PETG. Somehow PETG can pull chips out of plate B-glass!

    There are ruby tips now. Print your worst!

    Good she lives! The mess is probably operator 'correctable'. Print on man! Welcome back home.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 01-22-2020 at 06:17 AM.

  5. #5
    3D Printer Noob
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    The Glass worked very nicely, bed's flat as can bee and the company shipped it very quickly.
    My first 2 'benchy's failed at the top of the print, I think the raft I printed them on didn't supply enough mechanical stability and the drag from the print-head caused it to rock back and forth 'till the print was no longer anchored.

    Printed with a brim instead, seemed to work well for about 50% of the print.
    Top half and especially visible in the chimney, Benchy exhibited some porosity in the walls (no pic here soon to follow) but very similar toW90dj.jpg THIS picture I found online

    I've had this issue before and was never able to pin it down. I think I'll re-print it slower and maybe that'll help?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    One of the solutions to the above Benchy was as follows...
    "This is very likely under extrusion caused by your feeder pressing down too hard onto the filament. If the feeder presses the filament very hard it then gets squished a bit, this is not causing much issues when you're only feeding in one direction as the drive gear is still pulling on fresh filament and shoving the squished part down at a steady rate. BUT once you got retractions things get awful as the squished filament then gets retracted and fed again at the same pace but due to the elongation at a smaller rate of material causing underextrusion.

    You can either trade it in to some overextrusion by adjusting the extra length on restart setting, retract a shorter piece of filament (like only retract half a mm or something) or loosen the feeder so it doesn't squish down on the filament as hard." says user bardiir on the 3dprinter stackexchange.

    I'll give that a shot when I get home, going to have to re-slice it so that on layers where it does a lot of z-hops the feeder overextrudes

  6. #6
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    I am so glad glad someone else discovered this form of restriction! Yes, my Cube3 does the very same thing with bowden tubes with insufficient ID. I can't adjust the driver's gap. But that is the failure mode and that image is the result. Thank you

 

 

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