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  1. #11
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jan 2015
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    Sorry for the delay in replies. Firstly, Ethan will not offer any useful help. I had enough of BS from him. I know some of you had good luck communicating with him. I did not.

    Quote Originally Posted by sm0orb View Post
    HAve you tried just bending it out a bit ? Mine was also so tight they could not be set in place without bending out a bit in the bottom, don't remember if it was that mush though.
    Thanks for letting me know that. Quite a relief to know that I am not the only one. Could you please share with me how you chose to bend it. With bare hands, pulling the two sides apart? At first, I thought I will need either the hammer or the file/sandpaper.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobenhamHotspur View Post
    The gap between my main uprights measure ~242mm, what does your measure?
    Sorry, can I confirm if you mean the upper gap of the U-Shape piece? I have boxed and un-boxed the parts few times after knowing I cannot proceed. So I need some time to measure it.

    I have tried to create a illustration using paint. Very sorry for the quality of it.

    assembly.png

    I first aligned the two supports on the base, then tried to make the frame sit on it, which couldn't do it.

    Here are the dimensions I mentioned above:
    assembly_dim.png

    What do you guys think I should do? Bend or hammer it (Will not be "square" anymore)? Or file/sandpaper it (Which I worry the screw holes might not align after that)?

    Another question, I have tried to plug in the base only and tried to test the Y-axis and heat bed only. I used Repetier-Host and tried to heat up the bed but the temperature stayed at ambient after 15mins. Do I need to connect all motors and test again before concluding that there is a problem with my heat bed too?
    Last edited by xyz; 02-05-2015 at 04:23 AM.

  2. #12
    3D Printer Noob
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    Nov 2014
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    Papakura, Auckland
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    The dimensions quoted above match my printer very closely as any CNC machined items should. I calculate that you are only 0.79 mm too wide and that should be able to be taken out by pulling apart at the bottom to make it slip over the base.
    But the Frame and the Frame Support legs MUST be assembled as per the instructions. Ensure that the frame support is positioned so that it is hard against the frame on each side. Ian

  3. #13
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jan 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zl1aox View Post
    The dimensions quoted above match my printer very closely as any CNC machined items should. I calculate that you are only 0.79 mm too wide and that should be able to be taken out by pulling apart at the bottom to make it slip over the base.
    But the Frame and the Frame Support legs MUST be assembled as per the instructions. Ensure that the frame support is positioned so that it is hard against the frame on each side. Ian
    It is in reality about 1 to 2mm out and I think that is because some of the larger measurements I made are using a ruler (which has less precision than that caliper). I just hope I have the strength to bend that thing.

    I understand I have to follow the instructions. I did that but I could not fit it in. The method presented above is to prove to myself that it is impossible to fit, no matter how well aligned the frame and support legs are, without doing modifications that is not in the instructions (ie the dimensions are out).

  4. #14
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    As mentioned, since these are CNC parts so I do not believe there is any issue with your frame. I would tend to look at the assembled parts. Is it possible to loosen the screws holding the bed rail to the base and move it in so your 254.5mm dimension can be reduced? Or even another thought, rotate the bed rail and try another position. I think if you can get the dimension over the bed rails to 254 you could get the frame to fit over.

  5. #15
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    On the heat bed, inspect the cables below the bed all the way to the connector / connector and then into the chassis.

    If no visible breaks or disconnection, open up the bottom panel and continue tracing the heat bed cable connections all the way to the driver boards.

    On my bed, one of the power cables to the heat bed broke under stress, I just re-soldered it and it's working fine now.

    Ethan normally respond if the question was clear and if there was a clear solution. Most of the fun I had was to solve this problem myself, it's like a big jiggsaw puzzle (or cross-words to some of you) and I rather win than whine.

  6. #16
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    On the frames, have you already fasten the to side bars to the vertical frame before trying to sit it on the main chassis ?

    Don't tighten the nuts too tightly and practice zig-zag pattern fastening method:

    Start with 50% tightening of each screw/nut in a diagonal or zig-zag pattern (ie finger tight each screw/nut and skip the next location, going to the screw/nut opposite / furthest from the current position)

    After all has been finger tighten, apply a light torque (75%) to each of the screw / nut in a zig-zap fashion (not sequential screw / nut) until all done.

    Third pass tighten (100%) to each screw / nut (usually a slight quarter turn or less) in a zig-zag fashion.

    Never ever tighten the nuts / screw with all your might, you are not trying to prove that you are tougher than steel, and you might strip the nut / screw and no need for thread-lock, one day you may have to remove that part for repair, maintenance or replacement so if it gets too tight, you might have to drill out the screws just to release that part.

    As you gently tighten each screw in a non-sequential fashion, there will be no stress that can warp the part and there are times you will make a mistake and just un-tighten them.

    I started out and made a silly mistake of mounting the bottom plate in the wrong direction (counter sunk inwards) and so I couldn't put in the screws at all, I thought I had a bad part or that the screws were too short ! I took it apart and start again and realized my stupid mistake

    So try one way, swap them around and see, sometimes it might just fit.

    Don't try to force them, once it's bent (and it's very very hard to bend aircraft aluminum), then it's damaged and won't be covered under parts warranty. If the part is really bad or wrong, Ethan would sort it out but you need to be very sure or be very red faced later.

    I can't see how CNC parts won't fit properly by machining mistake, these are computer controlled, and I don't remember if anyone else had the same or similar problem so it might not be a bad fluke.

    They do give a very tight fit, go easy on them.... if it helps, try rubbing some candle wax as lubricant on the edges/sides and ease it in.

  7. #17
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Nov 2014
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    Sweden
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    Sorry for delay.
    I just used a bit of hand force to bend the frame outwards on the open end.
    This was with the supports mounted and made as i slid it on to the base, not bending so it changed shape completly just putting some tension to it.

    I have checked both vertical legs of the frame with a leveller and found them very well vertical, as well as the base and the top of the frame horisontal.

    If you think a precise measurement is valuable i can try to make it.

  8. #18
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jan 2015
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    Thanks everyone! I finally managed to assemble it by bending the frame. The rectangular bars are quite consistent (they probably already bought it as it is). Unfortunately, now I have the feeding problem.

    Once again, thanks a lot for all your replies!

 

 

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