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  1. #121
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    Pennsylvania, USA
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    I am going to try these

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/271637364199

  2. #122
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    Ill try these tomorow:
    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=251362536227

    Hoping they Will do the job

  3. #123
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
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    18
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    Has anyone had success with a Standard 47mm high Stepper motor. I bought a 0.9 deg motor but of course it is tall. I was thinking of modifying the motor holder, but then I would have to modify the camera holder also and I don't really want to make that any taller. As I was hoping to print that in one peace.

  4. #124
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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    Hi all, just another update, make sure you have a nice bright light to light up the work piece!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was able to go through the auto check successfully and the calibration successfully as well and it setup nicely, however, my lasers are a pain to get vertical so slight ghosting still but it is improving, I think i will try another fixed focus set of lasers so I can really get them vertical so the triangulation is spot on.... now to enjoy the day LOL....

    Bigfella, I had a small stepper motor left over from my shapeoko 2 build (I went to nema 23s), dont know the specs but it fit nicely under the mount with room to spare. Its a nema 17 shihong motor 42BYGH33-1334A model, its cheap nasty but its working....
    Last edited by ned73; 03-20-2015 at 11:38 PM.

  5. #125
    3D Printer Noob
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    Mar 2015
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    Melbourne Australia
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    Thanks I bought mine with 23s so I didn't do the upgrade. I have already got the 17. .. 9 deg. But it may be easier to get a smaller on. I will have a look at the on the z axis on my shapeoko and see if it is the same size. If it is I should be ok I guess. Thanks for the tip.

  6. #126
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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    This is what I got so far with my wonky lasers.... I am still missing the bottom bit of the image even after successful auto check and calibration....

    this:
    test2.jpg
    from this:

    test1.jpg

    I have a desktop lamp just sitting directly behind the camera and point slightly above the object as you can see from the shadow. Apologies for the crappy photos LOL.

  7. #127
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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    One more go before I head out.... no ghosting on this one, but part of the base missing and top of the head, I watched this carefully and no second image within the other, maybe it only happens with cylinders?? Alot of artefacts here and there and also missing some of the parts coloured black... the struggle will continue later...

    Anyways heres the pics:

    noghost.jpg

    from this:

    dalek.jpg

  8. #128
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Nov 2014
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    3,326
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    Try asking jesus about this... i recall someone said less light is better under certain situations...

  9. #129
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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    Hi Bolson, thanks for your help, I have posted on the google group and will check for any replies in the next day, I am about to collapse after today lol.

    I just did a quick check and I have 9 kits left I believe.

    Also if people could let me know when their kit arrives that would be appreciated, I am trying to see how long postage times are taking for these parcels to travel from Australia to their overseas destinations.....

  10. #130
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    Hi all, just a quick check in, still playing with the settings and the actual physical light in the room I am scanning in, sometimes I get ok results other times I get bits missing as pictured above LOL, so its slow going.

    I have ordered some other lasers as per milstream: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271637364199

    Hopefully the fact that they are focused will remove one problem area.

    Another thing to add as well, I have seen there are 2 versions of UNO floating around - one has the "CORRECT" Usb chip that the arduino drivers pick up asap and there is another "cheap special" version that has some weird CH340g usb driver or something like that. Please note I am using the correct version as the Horus software installs the Arduino drivers/ftdi? to find the UNO first time without a problem, I have no idea what will happen with the other version, but from what I can tell you have to install the "special" usb driver to get windows and horus to see it.

 

 

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