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  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
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    [GUIDE] LCD Installation

    I’ve successfully added a graphic LCD to my RL200. Here’s how I did it:


    1. Using the Arduino IDE change the Configuration.h file in the Marlin software as follows –


    LCD_Config.jpg


    1. Plug in the two ribbon cables to EXP1 & EXP2 and switch on.


    Hooked-up.jpg


    That’s it – well almost. The chances are that your LCD will just beep and flash but nothing more. That’s because the EXP1 & EXP2 sockets on the RL Rumba board are the wrong way up ! Now this isn’t a fault of Rapide 3D as such since there was an error in the construction of the original Rumba boards which Rapide 3D simply copied. You can find discussions about this on several forums and in the Rumba wiki.
    What needs to happen is to turn each socket/plug through 180° so that the connections from the ribbon cables are correctly orientated. One could re-work the boards but this is really too much hassle, it’s better just to change the cables such that the opposing plugs are reversed – you’ll have to make up new cables anyway to be able to position the LCD where you want it.
    In order to test my LCD I took the easy way out and filed off the polarizing nubs on the plugs (one end of each cable) and then made sure that I connected them to the Rumba board the correct way round.
    The full graphic LCD’s are readily available from many sources including the on-line RepRapDiscount shop. I got mine from DX.com.

    front-view.jpg

    back-view.jpg


    As you can see, it works just fine and also supports an SD card.

    DSC00382.JPG
    The current offering from DX is a slightly different layout and is described as ‘Reprap LCD12864 Smart Controller Display for 3D Printers’ but it is essentially the same as the one I have used. Not a bad find for $17.

    The next task is to design and print a suitable enclosure to fit the RL printer. You can find several designs of enclosures for this LCD on Thingiverse if you don’t want to design your own.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Nice findings and setup! Thanks for sharing!!

  3. #3
    3D Printer Noob
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    where you have passed the wires to get them out?

  4. #4
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Here I attached the fw for use with Full Graphic LCD Smart Controller. I changed the machine name to "Rapide 3D", which you can change from language.h file. Also I disabled beeper, and changed the encoder(button knob)'s direction and step settings(true logical direction and one increment per one rotary click) which placed at pins.h file. Also this fw only show 1 extuder at LCD. You can compare with stock Marlin-1.0.2 and see the differences.

    Also you can only set LCD contrast from the screw pot placed at bottom left.

    White line at the middle of splash screen is a bug with Marlin-1.0.2 and will solved at new versions, it affects nothing.

    Be aware that Thermal Runaway Protection is enabled at this fw, so don't increase realtime temperatures more than 5 degrees per 40 sec or print will stop.

    Attachment 845
    Last edited by Fixx; 04-04-2015 at 10:27 AM. Reason: New fw attached

  5. #5
    3D Printer Legend
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixx View Post
    Here I attached the fw for use with Full Graphic LCD Smart Controller. I changed the machine name to "Rapide 3D", which you can change from language.h file. Also I disabled beeper, and changed the encoder(button knob)'s direction and step settings(true logical direction and one increment per one rotary click) which placed at pins.h file. Also this fw only show 1 extuder at LCD. You can compare with stock Marlin-1.0.2 and see the differences.

    Also you can only set LCD contrast from the screw pot placed at bottom left.

    White line at the middle of splash screen is a bug with Marlin-1.0.2 and will solved at new versions, it affects nothing.

    Be aware that Thermal Runaway Protection is enabled at this fw, so don't increase realtime temperatures more than 5 degrees per 40 sec or print will stop.

    Attachment 845
    Not to worry I found the library on-line and added it to the build

    Hi Fixx
    I tried uploading your version but got this error "Marlin.ino:44:101: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory" any advice please?
    Last edited by BobenhamHotspur; 05-01-2015 at 09:15 PM.

  6. #6
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Hi Bob,

    it is normal, you have to download the U8glib (I joined it)

    You start Arduino, you go in the "Sketch" Menu
    You click : import librairy
    You select the zip file I joined (without decompressing it)
    Now you can compil it and upload it
    it will works
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by SAO; 05-01-2015 at 09:38 PM.

  7. #7
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Hi Fixx,

    i don't have the white line on the splash screen, are you sure it is a problem from marlin 1.0.2
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Regular 3D Printer
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    I have updated this fw attached file over time so this you're using is newer than 1.0.2, that bug is fixed.

  9. #9
    Expert 3D Printer
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    I am on Marlin 1.0.2, perhaps it is the u8lib

  10. #10
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Did you make sure all the pins on the connectors are ok?

 

 

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