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  1. #11
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    Anytime Nighthawk. Buddy's editor is the bomb! Yet another freeing of the Cubes.

  2. #12
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    Any questions with using the editor let me know. Any questions with changing the data in the editor to specific values, talk to Tommy.

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  4. #13
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    So here's my Benchy fleet:

    20200311_194718 (2).jpg
    20200311_194808 (2).jpg
    20200311_194739 (2).jpg
    20200311_194845 (2).jpg

    So I'm hoping playing with temperatures helps, because otherwise I think the morale of the story is going to be don't use the 70 um setting.

    I will be working with your software Buddy, wish me luck...

  5. #14
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    I rarely see anyone print at 70um come from the Cube3 and i don't have the patience for it. Are you operating within an enclosure?

  6. #15
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    No enclosure. On a shelf in a closet - mostly to manage noise, but closing the door does leave it in a dead air space.

    I wanted to print at 70um to see if there was better detail, and I was wondering if it was more dimensionally accurate. At 200um, some of my hole sizes aren't correct.

  7. #16
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    Ah, yes, inside dimensions are typically small. Very hard to compensate for. The slicer also crowds traces if they are narrow, unlike CubePro that simply removes those surfaces. More detail, probably not too much, but less layer lines. I've done Marvin in 70um before and that was just a ball of hot plastic. Okay, not that drastic but it wasn't a pretty picture. I am printing a 70um cylinder. That looks quite nice on mine. I print in a room at about 72-74F.

    So many variables But you are dealing with a heat soaking of previous layers. It can be a property of the material or just the way the Cube3 cools the parts. I am suggesting taking some heat out of the filament for this reason.

    Edit; The little cylinder thingy came out great. Perfect walls and the seam changed when it got to a thinner section because it pushed the part out to cool. Very small part but at 70um, it was as perfect as one could be save a proud seam on the layers that went through the cooling cycle on the tray.

    20200311_201219.jpg

    I fudged the ID's by about 0.2mm larger in diameter. The part fit perfect. The OD shown here is 14.4mm, also fit perfect.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Looking at the copper Benchies, you're not able to get a decent bridge as noted by the front window. The filament is also drooling a lot. I think it did better on the bow, right? Still had inward draw on the lower half?

    This is where people start dialing recipes for that particular filament. And blessed be, we can do some of that. Buddy's tool will also let you manage retraction setting. Basically we can relax the motion by about 1/3. Buddy's also written a 'pressure' adjustment into the tool. Another way to tweak bridging capabilities. At the very least it should be able to bridge the front window. Time to find and print some benchmark files other than Benchy. Let me know which one and I'll run this filament of mine against it if the print is simple enough. I've had enough of printing Benchies

    What's your Cube3 look like? Hub, extruder, bowden, heater-chamber mods?
    Last edited by TommyDee; 03-12-2020 at 04:23 AM.

  8. #17
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    Here is a picture of my setup: (some of this may look familiar)
    20200312_003256 (3).jpg

    My first modification to combat the constant jamming of the original cartridges was to cut the top open, because I thought the way the tubes were tucked into the top was the problem. When that did not fix it, I drilled a hole in the top of the printhead, and ran the tube straight out.

    That worked well enough that I could print out your B2B system - although, I was not able to get a clean groove in the tubes, so I had several prints that blew the tube out of the head because the clips did not hold. So I ended up with the pneumatic fittings on top of the B2B ends - and I've had no more failures. Whenever I unscrew the B2B caps, I hold down the fitting release to keep from scoring up the tubes further.

    One of your messages called out a 22" tube, so that is what I have. That is probably longer than it needs to be, but I think there is no stress on the filament from the movement of the head, so I left it that size. I have a wire very loosely tying the tube up to keep it from falling sideways - it slides very easily over the tube, so it does not add any mechanical stress.

    I printed out your Cartridge Saver, because I have a broken clip on one of my cartridges - but it also makes a dandy ejection tool, so I keep it right next to the machine for whenever I need to remove the cartridge.

    I build up one of the Recube wands from Tomuro's instructions (you had already stopped selling your version when I found out about it), and I reset the cartridge anytime I take it off. I like that better than modifying the original firmware.

    The spool holder I found on thingiverse, and it works really well.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  10. #18
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    Sweet, but I guess we still have some work to do on the grooving tool. Something about not getting a good cutting action? Think this when positioning the 'blade' - perpendicular to the tube or 'slightly behind'. Lathe tool rules. Perpendicular biased toward trailing. 18-19" with the B2B. 22" was older hubs.

    You have good experience with this printer with regard to print-heads. Sorry that the groove is still a challenge.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 03-12-2020 at 06:51 AM.

  11. #19
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    Buddy - your software is awesome. I was intimidated by a post with 23 pages of comments, but I read the first couple of pages, then the last couple of pages - then I figured I would just download it and see what I could do. It was pretty easy, and I changed 200 degrees for most of the print to 195, and wrote the file back out.

    I made another one at 195 - unfortunately, I still see the same problem:

    Attachment 3620

    At this point, I think I agree with TommyDee, and I am through with Benchy's - it is a 3.5 hour commitment every time I start one, but now I have more knobs to turn on future prints. Thank you for a great application program.

    Tommy - I am open to suggestions as to some other benchmark model to print.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    The groove didn't work out, and I tried several different cutting tools in the handle you had up on Thingiverse - although maybe it was the dimensional accuracy of the printed clips... I am happy with the pneumatic fittings though, they seem to work fine.

    Maybe I'll go ahead and cut my tubes down to 19".

    Also, I took your advice to only run a single head, right after I had two loaded and the idle head knocked a piece of the print off and I ended up with a pile of spaghetti.

  12. #20
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    I have nozzles and bulkhead fittings for quick connects on Thingiverse too in case you're interested. 19" will manage itself, and also remove some of that 'ghosting' which is caused by vibration. It certainly looks a whole lot better except that nasty plank! Have you looked at the BFB to see if there isn't a slicer artifact?

 

 

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