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  1. #21
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    Yes, I saw the quick connect versions up on Thingiverse, but conceptually, I liked the newer ones better. The nozzle fitting on the quick connect version is only held together by the U-clip, whereas the version I am using, that clip only holds it for assembly - the screw cap keeps everything together, which I believe is a superior solution.

    Also, when feeding the filament initially, I can unscrew the bulkhead connector and slip it over the protruding filament. I think with the quick connect only, there is a lip the filament can hit as it gets blindly pushed up, and then that would be harder to get fed.

    What do you mean about slicer artifact in the BFB? I don't know what to look for in there.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Hi Tommy - I found something else to print... (Low poly version)

    This was just straight draft settings from Cube Print, but I went through the editor and lowered the temp to 195. Interestingly enough, the Benchy at 70um came from Cube Print at 200 degrees, but this was set to 210...

    Anyway, some stringing and distortion along the top edges - should I go down to 190, and maybe increase retraction to stop the stringing?

    20200312_110833 (2).jpg
    Last edited by Nighthawk; 03-12-2020 at 07:31 AM.

  2. #22
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    I had never really though about the alternate arrangement. great idea

    Those two pieces came out very nice. They are a challenge for the Cube3. I think you got the temp right but reduce the retraction to 2/3 original. Just the first 2 number in the editor. M227 and M228 should match.

    If you load up CubePro, you can see the sliced file if you only have the header and BFB section. Look in preferences of the editor and you can leave out the image. At that point, it can be viewed in the CuePro app.

    I think you can also upload it to Cura. Just haven't worked with Cura for a while. The editor has a button to see just the BFB file.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 03-12-2020 at 04:44 PM.

  3. #23
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    OK, I don't understand the retraction settings at all. Here is a screenshot from the editor - what should I do? (Sorry to be so needy...)

    2020-03-12 11_58_13-Cube3Editor.jpg

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  5. #24
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    M227 P value 450->300 550->350
    M227 S value 450->300 550->350
    M228 S value 450->300 550->350

    There are retraction and resumption lengths

    G & V are force value but still not exactly clear on how to best utilize them.

    And no worries - easier to ask than find it in all the forum pages.

  6. #25
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    Since your last message, I have just downloaded and installed Cubepro... Is there a way to build a file from Cubepro for the Cube3? It looks like a lot more options for the slicer...

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Tommy - my first thought was that it made sense to increase retraction to reduce stringing, but your suggestion was to decrease the retraction. I took your recommendation, and started a new print with the reduced retraction.

    Here is what I am seeing so far:
    20200312_123400(3).jpg

    So I am seeing more stringing now. I expect that I need to go maybe 4/3 of the original retraction - but will I run into problems if I retract too much? I seem to remember somewhere in this forum where someone was getting blobs before the nozzles that was jamming the filament and that was attributed to over-retraction - does that sound right?

    Also, based on your experience with this machine, when would you alter retraction settings, and other than stringing, what problems would this impact. I still have a lot to learn...

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Also I had reduced the temperature to 190 - Cube Print started at 210. Maybe I reduced it too much?

  7. #26
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    There is a delicate balance between stringing, temperature and retraction non of which this adjustment is meant to address. Stringing doesn't bother me. That is a fact of life with 3D printing. Easy enough to clean up.

    The reason for the alterations is to compensate for a stiffer bowden tube. The stock tube stretches like 12mm. Our 4mm tubing doesn't. Looking at other files, it is obvious the retraction settings in the Cube3 are quite aggressive. This 2/3rd rule is based on compensation.

    CubePro has a lot of great options. The problem with the CubePro slicer is that it is "precise". It works great for larger items but it will remove walls. It does have some bizarre stiffening layers that show to the outside. Basically, the slicer tries to make sure the entire part fits -within- its envelope v. the Cube3's -about- the envelope. There is an subtle but distinct difference.

    Yes, you can take the core BFB from CubePro and make it Cube3. Not easy and you have to use CubePro v1.87 since we cannot edit v2.02. That is the reason for the other page of the editor. A little more work here could go further but this is possible with some effort. I've also gotten Cura into Cube3. Even more work but doable.

  8. #27
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    OK, that makes sense then. So a 2/3 adjustment on the retraction is a common change that we should make on all files.

    Now temperature - is there some rhyme or reason on how Cube Print determines temperatures? As I mentioned Benchy was at 200, and the Rhombic came out at 210. There was the difference of 70um vs. 200um - do you think that is what Cube Print based this on, or does it do some analysis of the shape to determine the temperature?

    Do you reduce temperature based on generic vs. 3DS material, or do you look at the first printed object, and adjust based on how it comes out?

  9. #28
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    You do have all the pertinent questions and I appreciate that.

    First of all, no, I only change prints that need it. For a quick PLA print, I just run it right out of the CubePrint slicer. I also avoid difficult filaments. Basically 3DS controlled the filament so their slicer minimizes changes needed for a good quality print. We have a little more dialing to do when we try other filament.

    PLA has been fairly forgiving. ABS on the other hand - I've stocked up on 3DS ABS. Basically, the 3DS silcer is useless for 3rd party ABS filaments. ABS needs to run on the hotter side. Most 3rd party ABS works better with the Ekocycle slicer. As does PETG, of course. When I edit these files, I will do some routine file manipulation at the same time. The feature that is most affected is the seam. This is what you might use for dialing in your preference based on filament.

    Idea behind reduced retraction and 'blobs' - When the cube retracts it leaves a bulb in the hot end, has a long thin segment, and then a plug about 15mm in the tube. The area between the bulb and the plug is basically trapped air. Trapped air expands faster. Reducing the trapped air reduces drooling.

    When you start characterizing the temperature profiles, you'll see some interesting housekeeping values between extruder 1 and extruder 2. Be sure to change the temperature that is set just before the actual run. Often it only takes one temp call for most of the print for single filament prints.

    Cube3 has a unique requirement of bias temperature on the unused extruder. This is what makes 3rd party slicers a little less useful. Drag a couple of BFB files into Excel and have a look at how the slicer does things. One thing to note is the 'vector' calls. These tell the slicer the type of element is is busy slicing; wall, infill, support, etc..

  10. #29
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    So much to learn. Thank you for getting me started.

    One more off-topic question, and I won't bother you again (at least in this thread) - you have mentioned 3D Builder several times. How do you connect that to the Cube? Are you just plugging into the Type B USB port on the Cube? I tried that, and it does not recognize my printer - do you have a special driver or something?

  11. #30
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    There is a SDK toolkit somewhere. I loaded that on Win8.1 and things worked until I messed with the print driver which invalidates it. Adding another now has a different name and is ignored. That is how I learned about 3D Builder. Win10 should have it built in but not sure how to activate it.

    3D builder has a true raft and it does much better with 3DS ABS. I reviewed the config files and only found entry different. CubePrint would never do well with Marvin in ABS. 3D Builder made a perfect Marvin including the loop. How one setting can do that I have no clue.

    Bottom line, The 3DS driver for Windows is designed to be a commerce entity and therefore has a specific signature. Accessing the driver marks them as being tampered with. That is some of the worst data security management I've seen from Microsoft. It is certainly worth playing with 3D Builder... just don't touch the driver when it works.

    Also know that 3D Builder requires a solid connection to the right side of the printer. DO NOT PLUG YOUR COMPUTER INTO THE LEFT USB PORT!

 

 

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