Instructable Marlin driven Cube 3

[razor81]

UPDATE :
Due to my will of Experiment and learning process, this cube will run on reprap Firmware using Duet2 wifi Board. If you are still planing to run Marlin please refer to my other thread:
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...-run-Marlin-fw

WARNING!!! This is a very extensive rebuild which is very time consuming... The parts used May change, the concept is the same (take total control of the cube 3)
After a sucessfull rebuild, im making this experience open for All of you thinking about doing the same...
I have to point out this build needs patience becouse of the tight space inside the little printer...
Will rework the part cooling too... is a work in progress

BOM:
Duet2 wifi
https://www.duet3d.com/DuetWifi
Paneldue Display
https://www.duet3d.com/PanelDue
Jst and dupont connectors and crimping tool(you are gonna need those always)
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07ZKDTY4V/..._.e3CEb8WP2S0C
Stepdown module
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07DG2DCSG/..._rg3CEbR16QBXM
Extruders, (to be able to use original cube motors)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4262905
Ptfe tube
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07C7DHNFP/..._Tm3CEb1673GGK
Jumper wires or some other cables
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01EV70C78/..._3n3CEb496DC4E
Hotglue gun and some Hotglue...

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Before we Start to disassemble the cube we have to print some New nozzle holders... if you want to print them on another
printer let me know, i can post the metric STLs thanks to TommyDee
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591654

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For disassembly you can use this guide...
https://openbuilds.com/threads/tear-...o-reprap.5689/

You could Do it this way or preserve the Fast original Look using my guide

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So first put the jumpers on the board in the way so they are connected using UART mode so we can software controll them...
Screenshot (6).png
then we put the drivers on the board...

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we assemle the extruders with 2 nema17 motors and mount them to rear plastic cover using 3,5x20 wood screws and drill a hole big enough to put the cables inside the cabinet... i screwed mine directly into the plastic...

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from the front: unscrew the original motherboard and display, take out the SD and put aside...
from the hotend unplug the connectors and remove the cable tree(gonna need that)
original extruders can be removed and not needed any more, u could use them as is with custom original extruder
but i personally dont like the machine to have to pull out the filament... i just like to make my change in 5 sec pull the lever and pull on filament with hotend hot

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now carefully disasamble the hotend we dont wanna trash it...

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_20200228_213421.JPG
So it looks like

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2 wires coming from the same hole from the back are the thermistor wires (left2, right2) here we dont mind the polarity, the other wires are the heater cartridges and Thermostat...
We cut the Thermostat away and use the Pairs (the heaters are holetru ones) left pair back is positive, right too
Best bet is to Label the Pairs respectively
_20200228_212219.JPG
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So that sorted out, we need to take care of the Fans, the hotend Fan is a 12V one, part cooling Fans are 5V ones, we also need 1x 12V stepdown and 1x 5V stepdown

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For the hotend use 8pin dupont connector, for Fans 4pin one...

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Now we need the original cable tree... Cut the big connector away and crimp female Pins to one side of it(you have to always look out for direction where the Power comes from. VERY IMPORTANT always use female at the end of live wires to prevent accidents) and on the hotend side you have to solder a bit of wire to heater negative wires, than crimp male dupont Pins on All 8 of them

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_20200306_222122.JPG
Should Look Like this wired up, used 8pin for hotend and 4 pin for fans

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All of the cabling comes in the lower Front end of the printer, we have a preety tight clearence so pay attention to detail when cabling up

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If you want to use the RGB leds 12v ... Lets get to work _20200307_202022.JPG
Thats how they Look in my cube
Use this guide
https://youtu.be/ONyxRprg-Ag

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Under the Black shrink tube is a stepdown Set to 12v, it will be directly crimped to 24V at mobo terminals

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I used only a little piece of ledstrip to put on the top... You can go wild there...

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The leds will be connected to Pins we configure in Firmware

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Crimp female Pins to the cables accordingly 3pin dupont connector...

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LCD... _20200301_112457.JPG
_20200301_112815.JPG
I helped myself with my welding iron tip and some cutters

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The board will sit between the legs
Attachment 3662
did turn the board 180 degrees at the end, but you get the point

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you can read the thread HOW TO Controller Board change and run Marlin fw for reference and info when doing this build

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for more info about the board...
https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTR...T%20SKR%20V1.4

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So lets go on...
firstly let me explain how i figured out the homing process...
the machine homes to xmin ymin and zmax.. its firmware defined what the zmin is so it know where it is

[TommyDee]

Cube3 goes X-max and Y-max also. "drive to stall and record" Stall current in configs is 400-450ma of motor current. This ensures the belt won't jump and that any restriction is overcome.

[razor81]

i have homing current currently set at 300mA, operation current 480mA, but even if we burn our steppers they cost 2,70€ each

[TommyDee]

You'll be fine at 480mah.

[razor81]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xqb...w?usp=drivesdk
Here is a print start sequence hope you can see this...
Its not that loud any more have changed the mobo cooling Fan to Stock radial running at 7V

[Energyx]

what do you think about a TFT like this? Looks like a better fit doesn't it? https://de.aliexpress.com/item/40005...782a4df71AcZ4R

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And why not the original extruder position?

[razor81]

what do you think about a TFT like this? Looks like a better fit doesn't it? https://de.aliexpress.com/item/40005...782a4df71AcZ4R

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And why not the original extruder position?

You wont be able to fit 3.5 inch screen and preserve original Look, the original screen is 2.4 so you need to go 2.4inch...

The extruder position is definable in marlin to suit your needs,
The Tool switch is configured in s3d with gcode...
Its running marlin so you got open Hands there

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Oh you mean extruder... I have Designed an extruder which will use original parts and lets you load/unload filament manually, and can be bolted to its original place
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4262905

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If you need some more Info about the conversion let me know

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http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...-run-Marlin-fw

Thats how it All started for me, take a few Minutes to see that thread too...

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I have to order some parts to convert the White(second one) one too
Have the mobo fysetc s6, will have to get an tft24 v1.1, from btt, a Set of ptfe with holders, and use Stock extruder motors with my extruders on Stock Position for Start, leds will be driven from s6 directly

[TommyDee]

Couple of questions to keep a simple mind organized - mine of course;

The minimal configuration with what you have now is -
Motherboard = Fysetc S6
Display = BigTreeTech TFT24 V1.1
Stepper drivers = TMC2209 5x

These are the least required to 'Frenken-Mod' the Cube3.

Up on the Hot-End - in simple terms - what is the rewiring doing?

[buddybu]

It looks like:
Motherboard -- Fysetc S6
Display -- BigTreeTech TFT24 V1.1
Steppers -- TMC 2209

[razor81]

You could use any Board u want Essentialy...
The s6 has 3 controllable Fans(jumper 12/24v), rgb led control also with switchable voltage and indepedably powered heatbed so you could run the Machine on 24v, and bed on 12v if needed, its maybe a bit of Overkill for cube 3

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Would be perfekt for cube Pro duo...
2 extruder, heated bed and heated chamber... ��

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Heatbed thermistor plus 3 extruder thermistors

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Drivers are 2209 or 2130 for all axis, and 2208s should Do fine for extruders to save some bux