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  1. #1
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    Slicer Dicer: when to use Cube when Ecocycle Profile

    Since the B2B mod and the free filament hack and the cube3editor printing became quite some fun with the Cube3. There is one thing that still makes me stumble: which virtual printer to choose. Is there a list of the Things that one does better as the other? Consequences for the Cube3editor?

    I just tested a bit with the „frog.stl“. One with eco the other with normal cube3. Normally i use only the eco. It just prints way better when it comes to retraction settings. But i wanted to print the frog in „high res“. So i had to switch to classic cube3. There it ripped 2 times the bowden from the hotend. After some reworking the clips it worked to print to the end. So way more retraction. I tried to adjust that in the bfb but it is quite a challange to find the sweet spots. So I am curios how you decide when to Use what and how to react on the cube3 files in the editor.

    Sitting in the garden right now. I will share some pictures later from the PC.

  2. #2
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    Great question Energyx. I am glad to see you are using the Ekocycle slicer for either PETG or 3rd party ABS. Have you used it to reduce the temp for PLA prints? I have not bothered to try that yet.

    I reserve the ABS printing to 3D Systems ABS only. But your query is correct, Ekocycle doesn't support 70 micron prints or wash away support material. In that case I would use the ABS slicer and correct both temperature [260->250] and retraction adjustment [2/3 original ABS setting]. That should get you a similar experience as the Ekocycle from the ABS slicer.

    I haven't tested the above scenario but those are the settings changes I use. For PETG, maybe minus 15C instead of 10C.

    PLA I leave alone unless I need to adjust for blobs. Then I adjust retraction again to 2/3 original.

    And a quick note on blobs. There is a filament dependency here. I have now used two different 'silk' type PLA filaments and they both have remarkable seam characteristics. Adjust retraction therefore can also be tweaked for specific filaments. This is StrongHero Gold and the copper that I can't find anymore. The StrongHero has a more tepid hold on the glue so it needs a little more glue on the plate.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 05-30-2020 at 06:20 PM.

  3. #3
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    don't overrate what I am doing with the little cube I was facing a lovely prusa mk3s frog print and was curious how close i can get. so the first challenge was the 70 micron...so it had to be the classic cube3 profile to produce the cube3 file... but they challenge me more on the cube3editor than the eco cycle prints. for the eco files i use to reduce the temp to fit my filament and I reduce retraction to something low as 155. This turns out to be quite good. It also sounds quite good. no rough filament moves or so...It feels like it is also a bit slower in print speed which gives the print a bit more cooling time...

    When I switch to the cube3 profile stuff gets messed up. I also reduce the temp - but here i actually get quite some more temp jumps presented compared to the eco profile (7 vs 4 or so). Retraction I tried to lower as with eco and that made quite some noise on the printer...and let to rough retraction moves that ripped out the Bowden from the hot end (B2B mod without push fittings)...reproduceable... so i left retaction as it comes from the profile which still doesn't sound nice but at least it kept running to the end...

    So it is not a 'simple' same rule applies for all ... as always with 3d prints...and yes I am aware of different filament brands... not even that... even different color of the same brand can be way different.
    Until now I kept away from ABS - too much resistance expected due to the smell Apart from that I believe PLA is the most simple one - so learn how to stuff there shouldn't be the worst decision.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    And here are some pictures... white = Eco with 200 micron. blue = Cube3 with 70 micron...both PLA, both labled as 190-220 C. both printed with the left nozzle. frog rotated 90 degree

    so the white came out more nice in terms of successful print. Was levelled a bit to high. but no super strange blobs or so. also z seam is quite good (while also helps here)

    the blue is somewhat strange...70 microns are clearly smoother..why more clear details - as expected. but as you can see the eyes are messed up...cooling problem on that side I suppose..still white made it quite nice...another really strange structure is the chin... it is super rough - like sanding paper...while printing i could see that the overhangs didn't worked well (bending|warping).

    IMG_20200531_115505.jpgIMG_20200531_115456.jpgIMG_20200531_115452.jpgIMG_20200531_115446.jpgIMG_20200531_115526.jpgIMG_20200531_115531.jpgIMG_20200531_115551.jpgIMG_20200531_115607.jpg

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  5. #4
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    Nice! I bet if you ran a purge tower next to it the last few layers might just clean up a bit more around the eye balls.

    I am also thinking that an additional move prior to exiting the file would be useful. I say this because the printer 'hesitates' right before finishing. It hat hesitation happened outside away from the part, the last little 'Hershey' dollop may not be quite as obtrusive.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Nice! I bet if you ran a purge tower next to it the last few layers might just clean up a bit more around the eye balls.

    I am also thinking that an additional move prior to exiting the file would be useful. I say this because the printer 'hesitates' right before finishing. It hat hesitation happened outside away from the part, the last little 'Hershey' dollop may not be quite as obtrusive.
    I am not a fan of purge towers. I see the idea behind it and indeed i also believe it would work out. But it is just such a waste. Good thing the frog is small so i can put two on the plate. That should also do the trick.

    Still i am confused by what is so different or wrong that the 200 eco gets out quite nice while the cube3 70 gets so messy.

    This is where i am hoping for razor81 making a nice instruction how to release the cube To total freedom.

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  8. #6
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    It is a great platform for better slicers and firmware. We make due with what Cubify delivers and we finally get to tweak the files. Ekocycle is a lot nicer slicer at 200 microns. I am also getting real nice results with 3DS ABS w/ the modified ABS files. Mostly I am removing the retraction used to compensate for tube-stretch in the original tube. That is why I use the 2/3rd settings. It makes up for the more rigid 4mm tubing. However, the nozzles I am printing for B2B, they are straight up Cube3 ABS using 3D System's filament. Just the right print. A single Marvin turns to junk by the time the head is done. So yea, purge towers or a second part. it also avoids the "min layer time" trigger that also makes a mess by having a very distinct state change show up in the print, where the print pauses and moves forward each layer. That resumption never remains unnoticed.

    I get good results with PLA because I design for the printer specifically when I need the slicer to behave a certain way. Works well. 0.9/1.8 - just remember that.

  9. #7
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    Ill test it how it runs with reprap and a heated bed, i think we can get close to prusa quality this way...
    With an extra Fan should mounted from behind...

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Energyx View Post
    I am not a fan of purge towers. I see the idea behind it and indeed i also believe it would work out. But it is just such a waste. Good thing the frog is small so i can put two on the plate. That should also do the trick.

    Still i am confused by what is so different or wrong that the 200 eco gets out quite nice while the cube3 70 gets so messy.

    This is where i am hoping for razor81 making a nice instruction how to release the cube To total freedom.
    If you would be satisfied with a "naked" cube3, than it could be done in an afternoon, with the duet2, an 24v heatbed and an at least 15A Power supply, with some recrimping

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Im trying to squezze the Guts inside the plastic Box... Thats kinda involving Procedure.. Check my thread once in a while

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Im also intrigued by the thought to rebuild the cube to corexz

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