Thanks Thanks:  4
Likes Likes:  3
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 15 of 15
  1. #11
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like
    Beat me to that question TD!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Welcome
    ... and how are you managing the chip while printing?
    TD, could something be designed to utilize the 2 screws on either side?

  2. #12
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    2,943
    Post Thanks / Like
    With a fixed frame filament driver, it would be stiffer and therefore a more reliable connection.

  3. #13
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,269
    Post Thanks / Like
    Very nice mod indeed, cant wait to see your tutorial mate!

  4. #14
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK! I took some pics of the process

    First thing todo y buying a LEFT SIDE MK8 EXTRUDER and a M6 BARREL with teflon tube (this is optional)
    examples:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32825596764.html
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32878468723.html

    I canīt insert the pics so uploaded in a gallery:
    https://postimg.cc/gallery/WhHpCGG


    Next, you need to make holes for other 2 screws in the cube 3 to firmly fit the extruder plate. They are symmetrical to the existing ones that hold the step motor.
    I used a 4mm drill, do it carefully, you donīt want to damage the step motor holes.
    As i said before, the cube 3 has a "notch" around the axle so you need to make the extruder plate hole a little bigger (26mm, Do it only in the back side, so it fits more tight in the cube. I used a step-drill to do this.
    Cut the M6 barrel to 10mm long so it fits between the toothed wheel and the extruder outlet hole.
    cut a piece of 30mm original tube (2I/3O mm) and fit it 15mm in the tip of a 3I/4O mm tube for the inlet guide tube.
    Screw the barrel and the bowden adaptors to the extruder.
    Remove the original toothed wheel from the original extruder. Cut a 5mm piece of 3I/4O tube and fit it to the step motor axle so the toothed wheel is aligned to the new extruder wheel. Now glue the toothed wheel to the axle.
    Now using the provided with the extruder screws fit the new extruder it on the cube 3.
    put the spring and screws tah hold it. In this step I used a spool holder that printed from one of the DIY extruders found here and put it with the top screw that holds the spring in place.
    Insert the inlet tube and check that the 2/3mm tube nearly touches the wheels.
    Insert the outlet 2I/4O mm tube.
    And thatīs it! ready to print! I inserted filament flawlessly at first try! so much easy to swap.
    I have printed 80 hours with this mod and have NO CLACKS, NO FAILS! tried many different brands of filament and no troubles at all with any of them.

    Now for the chip..I only have PLA (anyone knows where to buy ABS chip?) so i donīt need to change it. First i glued it but was a little fragile and could fall in the middle of a print so I just cutted the original cartridge and fixed it using the existing 2 screws as suggested by ztoddman1.

  5. Thanks TommyDee, ztoddman1 thanked for this post
  6. #15
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice. I likey it.
    I have an MK8 on the way so next time my original gear fails for some reason, I may have to give this a try. Luckily I have a 2 junker printers and 1 that is being unused so........

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •