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  1. #11
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Fingers crossed that it will work hehe
    By the way did you have to change the connectors to fit them to the Rumba Board? Plugs seem quite large for the Connectors

  2. #12
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Only the ones for the endstops yes.

  3. #13
    3D Printer Noob
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    ... just got the new Rumba board.

    Came with A4988 stepper drivers... but have DRV8825 on the way too.

    A4988 is 1/16 and 8825 are 1/32 ... not sure which I want to use yet. 1/16 is pretty standard.

    Thoughts? and any advice.
    Last edited by LoefflerG; 07-19-2015 at 04:24 PM.

  4. #14
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Rapide's 1/32. I'd use 1/32. I got my Rumba with DRVs.

  5. #15
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    ...OK... new RUMBA board is installed. NEED HELP with three things: 1.) Firmware specifics for the Rapide Lite 200, 2.) Tweaking DRV825 Potentiometers.

    I've created a very detailed document on how to swap out the the original board with the new RUMBA Board... ANYONE interested in helping with the Firmware and Tweaking section of it...

    I've got it on DropBox so just email me and I'll send you the link to the WIP docx file.

  6. #16
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    .DOC updated.

    BTW my RUMBA just stays fine "floating" using just the 2 screws out of 4 the Rapide board was using... in the end the base is not going to move and i'm not appliying any force while connected, etc.

    So if anyone is willing to avoid "drilling" the base of the Rapide, feel free to skip such step.

  7. #17
    3D Printer Noob
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    SUCCESS...

    I am now printing with RUMBA board on my Rapide Lite 200 v1. Still some tweaking to do... but it seems to be working fine.

    Just finished the "Infinity_Bed_Flatness_Test_Without_Center_195x195 x0.4mm" test pattern ... only thing I see is the flow is better and I have to pull mine back a bit ... I was at 114% with the Rapide Lite's board and firmware. I tweaked the firmware code to adjust properly for flow and forgot to change SLICR.

    DRV8825 CHIP-BOARDS ... seem to be better quality and control now ... however, those potentiometers are a bitch to calibrate... I did mine +- 10% (i.e. 0.526-0.527 XY and 0.730-0.740 ZE). I updated the documentation with the actual DVR8825 picture and where to hold the Red and Black probes while getting a mV reading.

    ATmega16U2 ... not sure if I actually was able to get the hex code Rev3 flashed onto it or not. Just can't get it into DFU Mode through ISP Jumper or through AVR Programmer... any experts out there who can lend a hand --- please PM me. However, I hooked my Hackintosh 10.9.5 back up (flashed in Windows 10) ... and the OS X was able to connect to the RUMBA board through Repetier-Host Mac 0.56.

    FIRMWARE: Gonna go through it again and make sure all the tweaks are their for this board... I've got the Dual Z Stepper's configured as well as their pin call-outs. But again, any experts out there who want to help -- please PM me.

  8. #18
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    ...spoke too soon. DIED mid-print.

    Looks like the ATmega16u2 did not flash ...

    I'm on a brand new Win7 box now ... fresh install with minimal applications ... dedicated box for this task.

    Waiting on Geeetech to get back about DFU ... but I think the board is hosed ... I've tried jumper approach and avr programmer approach. It just won't go into DFU mode.

  9. #19
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    Looks like I am FINALLY back in business (Knock-On-Wood).

    K.I.S.S. method ... EVERYTHING has been done on Win7 x64 boxes at this point. Mac OS X has been taking completely out of the loop... will report on that with a separate continuation thread. Still no word from our folks over at GeeeTech, I've emailed them many times and it seems that they respond only when their Sales Folks prompt them to respond (FYI). But I've muddled through some things, googling a whole heck of a lot about the 16U2 and programming it.

    Here's what I've learned and implemented about ATmega16U2 and RUMBA boards:

    The 16U2 flashes ONLY with a AVR USB Cable. Have two RUMBA boards and NEITHER go into UBS Powered DFU mode. Shorting the pins per instructions (on WiKi and from GeeeTech) and then removing the short does not make the led lights flash, nor show up in Device Manager (Win7 x64).

    My testing setup and what I did ...

    Win7 x64 box, the RUMBA TAURINO Win7 driver, Arduino v1.6.45 with Win7 driver ... 1.) first checked that RUMBA is seen and can be FW flashed with Arduino USBtinyISP connection setting (check). 2.) then check that using AVR cable (hence giving you an usbasp port) properly shows up in Device Manager (check). Then try to read the ATmega16U2 chip information (check).


    *********** FLASHING 16U2 **********
    Flashing the ATmega16U2 is easy as straight up as most online docs show. I had issues with my lock (0xFF instead of 0xCF) and issues with the correct values for the lfuse, hfuse, and efuse. Apparently, not all Atmega16U2 chips are the same when it comes to these values, it depends upon the actual board/processor (based Atmega2560).


    FIRST STEP ... with AVR USB Cable properly connected and recognized...
    run this command ... avrdude -c usbasp -P usbasp -p m16U2 -v ...
    save this information dump output to a screen capture (just in case).

    This will tell you that you are connected properly without hosing your board with an attempted flash read or write.

    Originally, I just flashed one of the new RUMBA boards like this: avrdude -c usbasp -p m16u2 -F -U flash:w:usb_chip.hex:i But was still having communications / connection issues ... so I wanted to go further in the flash commands.

    Found this, but would not program...
    avrdude -p m16u2 -e -P usbasp -c usbasp -U flash:w:usb_chip.hex:i -u -U lfuse:w:0xEF:m -U hfuse:w:0xD9:m -U efuse:w:0xF4:m -U lock:w:0xCF:m

    Went back to the Rapide Lite board and ran avrdude to see what the values were for that board ... used those for the new RUMBA board fuse values.


    Then tried this combination of the two (emphasis on fuse values and lock:w:0x0F:m ... to make it successful without errors)...
    avrdude -p m16u2 -F -c usbasp -U flash:w:usb_chip.hex -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:w:0xD9:m -U efuse:w:0xF6:m -U lock:w:0x0F:m

    ***********************************

    Seemed to have worked... now to test it out. Used Arduino v1.6.4 to flash the firmware again - now it should be talking properly to the Win7 USB Intel ICH10-3A39 controller and all that stuff...

    ABOUT FIRMWARE - Again, K.I.S.S. approach ... went back to a "known-good" state of affairs. Previously, used Marlin v1.0.2. But now went back to the RL200's v1.0.1 FW with minor tweaks for the RUMBA board consideration (incl. drv8825 step driver tweaks 157 instead of 160).

    Now, when I connect with Repetier we no longer get "not end of line" errors... so FW seems to be good.

    Using Repetier on the Win7 x64 box, I am able to connect to the RUMBA just fine. No connections errors. Test printed several stl files, longest about 1 hour. At this point, very thing seems normal again... like when the original board "actually worked" (ha ha).

    ***********************************
    TAKING IT ALL BACK HOME ---> TO OS X
    ***********************************
    So, next was to take this configuration back to the original box (OS X Hackintosh, Win7 x64 dual boot) and see if the Win7 can be setup the exact same as the striped down test box. Yep, it worked fine. Once I configured the ports and software same as the test box, Repetier connected just fine and I am printing 1-2 hour jobs.

    Pheew. Next up in another thread, why OS X is having issues with USB connections. But that's for later, I've got a lot of printing to day - I'm way behind.

  10. Thanks Fixx, bolsoncerrado, wormsman thanked for this post
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  11. #20
    3D Printer Noob
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    End stop connections on rumba

    Hi there,
    i'm changing the board and I have some doubts about End stops cable connections.

    In original board we have 2 pins, in rumba 3 pins.
    I suppose blue cable is ground and colored is positive.
    It's correct?

    Ty
    Michele

 

 

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