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  1. #1
    Regular 3D Printer
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    how does everyone calibrate their Z-Axis end stop?

    So this is how I have been calibrating my z-axis .... I just want to know how everyone else does it. Maybe I've been doing it wrong all this time and it's been just luck more than anything and totally not accurate.

    I use Cura to print and what it does is that before each print, it will move to all the end stops so it knows where they are. X and Y are perfect and I haven't had to change them at all.

    With the Z-axis end stop, I have been manually moving the hotend to touch the bed in the centre with a piece of paper in between that can just move ... then I have to undo the hex screens on the end stop switch and lock them in while I feel the switch just click or activate. I have to do this everytime I have to take the hotend apart to clean and I think it's just totally unreliable and not accurate at all and it's more luck that it works as when I tighten the hex screws I can feel the switch move up and down as well. Sometimes it will dig into the platform, sometimes it will be too high and takes quite a few goes until it's kind of acceptable.

    I've been trying to design a better way to adjust the z-axis switch so I can move it up and down easily by tiny increments.
    Or maybe I'm just doing it wrong all this time and there's a easier method.

    how do you guys do it? or anyone have better or more reliable method of doing it?

    thanks

  2. #2
    Regular 3D Printer
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    well I did and search on google and .. my goodness.. why did I not think of that before? so simple!
    switchADjustment.jpg

    any other suggestions still welcome though

  3. #3
    3D Printer Legend
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    The first part (adjusting the switch) is fine, then because you may be a little out, as you say due to slight movement, use the bed adjusting screws to raise/lower the bed until it's spot on. In theory you should also check other areas of the bed not just the centre to see if they are at the correct height, but as long as you are only doing small parts in the centre of the bed it should not cause you any trouble.

    The part that worries me most is where you say "I have to do this everytime I have to take the hotend apart to clean". I haven't cleaned my hot end for ages, why do you think you need to clean yours so often?

  4. #4
    Regular 3D Printer
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    my printer was one of the first one that were shipped and it's been printing a lot. it's had 2 clogs and also I found my fans were also around the wrong way from Rapide.
    So when it works, it's great and I didn't have to calibrate it for a month ... but when I have to fix something, it's just not as accurate as I like for z-axis adjustment.

    anyway .. will design something to fit the printer for much easier adjustment. I really don't like the lets guess and try method of doing it.

  5. #5
    3D Printer Legend
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    Using the bed screws will be so much easier

  6. #6
    Regular 3D Printer
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    thanks for the advise ... but I don't want 4 more variables trying to level the bed again when it's already level.
    I don't think you will understand the importance to be able to adjust this until you have done it a few times.
    I've just made a really simple one to try out and I can fine tune it so so well now with just a turn of a screw driver.


    IMG_5465.jpg

    Anyway ... did my first calibration and took so little time and effort. I'm happy with it for now until I can think of a even more simple design.

  7. #7
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    I like that, do you have the file for that?

  8. #8
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Not a bad idea at all!

    I do however think the bed may go unleveled after a few, in the end they're screws on constant vibration and motion...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    Not a bad idea at all!

    I do however think the bed may go unleveled after a few, in the end they're screws on constant vibration and motion...
    Yes, It will go upwards with time because of vibration.

    I think we should make an Auto Bed Leveling setup for Rapide Lite 200 which utilizes a hall sensor. That way we can also compensate bed topography with the help of Grid mode ABL.

  10. #10
    Regular 3D Printer
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    This is actually the first time I've been able to dial in the exact first layer height so precisely ... and also the first time I printed at 100microns.
    Super impressed with this printer .. also with some fine tuning of the heat and flow, it's just unreal. It's the smoothest I've printed so far.
    I did set the sheel thickness a bit too thin but still ... amazing. It's the famous octopus but modifies to fit my wacom pen in.

    100Microns_small.jpg

 

 

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