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Thread: Nozzle Flow

  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
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    Nozzle Flow

    Hi All,

    New member and owner of a Rapide Lite 200 here. FIrst off i'd like to say this place is awesome. would never have got the printer setup if i hadn't stumble upon this forum as there were 0 guides from Rapide.

    I have a question on filament/nozzle/extruder.

    I managed to setup and connect the printer and feed the filament. During manual extrusion the filaments come out tidily in a straight consistent flow but when i start printing (and the nozzle is near the heatbed) , the filaments get all jumbled up and curl around the nozzle.

    Am very new to this so i would really appreciate any help deeply.

    Also, i notice it doesnt flow as "heavily" as some of the videos on rapide like such as



    The printer moves way faster than the filaments can even flow and i'm not sure how i can control that.

    Any help would be deeply appreciated. Hope i can contribute back to the forum someday.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    First, which filament are using? PLa? Abs?
    What temperature?
    What printing speed?

    If you move the Z all way up and ask the printer to extruder 50mm for example.... does the filament fall straight? curls? adheres to the head?

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply!


    I left it to default and recommended settings from the other threads:

    200c for extruder
    55c for bed

    They fall straight..

    when i start printing and the nozzle is directly on top the heat bed that's when it start's curling.



    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    First, which filament are using? PLa? Abs?
    What temperature?
    What printing speed?

    If you move the Z all way up and ask the printer to extruder 50mm for example.... does the filament fall straight? curls? adheres to the head?

  4. #4
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Did you level your bed? How much space between the nozzle and bed?

    Also for Rapide supplied PLA (Clear), I find the optimum temperature to be:

    Initial Bed: 76, subsequent 70
    Initial Extruder 200, subsequent 185

    However I found that the Silver PLA has a different temperature range

    Initial Bed: 75, subsequent 60
    Initial Extruder 220, subsequent 212


    If you use Cura, you can't set initial temperature for the first layer properly. And if the first layer is not done well, chances are the rest of the model will fail, especially tall ones.

    Try to use Repetier-Host or MatterControl.



    BTW if your nozzle output hanging in the air comes out curly instead of straight, it's ok.
    I never found any problems with printing as long as the nozzle is one sheet of paper clearance and the first layer is slightly "squished".

    Just measure the filament coming out to see if the diameter is consistent, and if it is smaller or wispy then there might be a nozzle blockage.
    But if the output filament is slightly larger than the nozzle size, then there is no problem.

    How are your prints looking like so far?
    Last edited by lawong; 03-07-2015 at 06:26 PM.

  5. #5
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    Also just to note that fast moving printers don't make good quaity prints.

    Slow printing usually works well because of the way the thermoplastics melt.

    Some may quote 120mm/sec printing but the filament has to melt so fast and it is not possible in real life, only on paper specifications.

    I usually print at 25mm/sec for 0.1 mm z prints to get very good results.

    If you check the speed difference between setting at 25mm/sec and 60mm/sec , the different in total time is maybe 20-30% difference and not 50% difference so just be patient and get a really great print instead of a tatty print in a hurry.

    Start slow, do a lot of testing.... master the filament/extruder/bed.... it is worth the work at the end.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the advice!

    I messed with the feedrate in repettier-host (70 instead of default 100) and notice that it comes out faster(or smoother?) .. AM really not sure what it does but that seemed to help the extrustion a little bit. If someone could explain why reducing the feedrate works would be great.

    Then I calibrated the z-axis as some parts were breaking off in specific corners.

    This is my most recent print out of the calibration ring..

    FullSizeRender.jpg

    It's a lil hard to see because its super thin(still trying to understand printer settings to make it thicker?)

    but for the most part it looks alright... still some breaks here and there and some parts are not as visible as the rest so the extruder is not consistent on some places..

    Gotta learn up on the settings more and see its progress. One can hope there a dummy guide for people like me

    Any feedback on the calibration print out is appreciated.

    Thanks again for all the advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by lawong View Post
    Also just to note that fast moving printers don't make good quaity prints.

    Slow printing usually works well because of the way the thermoplastics melt.

    Some may quote 120mm/sec printing but the filament has to melt so fast and it is not possible in real life, only on paper specifications.

    I usually print at 25mm/sec for 0.1 mm z prints to get very good results.

    If you check the speed difference between setting at 25mm/sec and 60mm/sec , the different in total time is maybe 20-30% difference and not 50% difference so just be patient and get a really great print instead of a tatty print in a hurry.

    Start slow, do a lot of testing.... master the filament/extruder/bed.... it is worth the work at the end.

  7. #7
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    i would say the extruder head is too close to the bed...

    What i do to calibrate the bed is just to watch when the head stops bumping the bed and then keep trying unitl it ALMOST hits it...

    As others said, first layer is crucial to the rest of the printing, so take your time.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the tip

    I tried what i could to be as close but still could slide an a4 in easily.

    And i tried printing something else. Here's my first ever print!
    IMG_7928.JPGIMG_7931.JPG

    It still breaks here and there but i was happy with it as a first print Then decided to push my luck and print a more complex origami shape and here's what happen. Oh well more experiments i guess.

    IMG_7934.JPG

    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    i would say the extruder head is too close to the bed...

    What i do to calibrate the bed is just to watch when the head stops bumping the bed and then keep trying unitl it ALMOST hits it...

    As others said, first layer is crucial to the rest of the printing, so take your time.

  9. #9
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    I concurr with Bolson, the nozzle is too close to the two opposite corners thereby breaking the circle.

    Try a multi-ring circle (smaller would be easier and the extuder won't block your fingers) and you should be able to adjust on-the-fly if you are nimble enough (CC screw to make thicker and CCW to thin it out). Pause when one ring is completed, check quality, turn the screws, continue and repeat until the ring comes out even.

  10. #10
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    What slicer are you using? Seems some software settings may still require finetunning.

    Try uploading a STL to Astroprint and slice it with their BEST QUALITY settings and try printing that one instead.

 

 

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