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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joao View Post
    Yes I can move the wheel by hand when the motor is off and it gives some resistance, the same resistance like the other motors of the X and Y axis.
    Is this intermittent ? Seems to be a connection issue. Have you verified connection is good on both ends?

  2. #52
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    Joao, do you have any possibility to check the signals to the motor and the info returned from it ?
    The behaviour seems like a motor getting contradicting orders with short intervals, that could be caused by missing feedback to the controller board regarding movement of the motor.
    So a measurement of the control wires, preferably with oscilloscope, will give more info on whats wrong.
    If you don't have the instruments for this, then do check that all the wires are ok.

  3. #53
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    I had some intermittent problems with the extruder, making it turning around 1mm back and forward very quickly instead of a continuous rotation, doing that clicking noise.
    Recently that problem got persistent and I couldn't find a way to make it work anymore.


    Ethan from Rapide3D replied to my email saying that it was a problem with the software slicing, the gcode or the communication, that they never had a faulty motor or controller
    It was not very helpful to find the problem because I knew what I was doing and definitely it was a problem with the printer!
    The email was only helpful to make me even more stubborn and really find the problem (and I did).


    I spent many many hours testing everything:

    1- Used other motors with the same connection, and got the same problem (so excluded a problem with the motor)

    2- Sent commands to Y axis and connected the extruder motor there, and it worked fine (confirmed that motor was ok)
    3- The motor connected to the extruder cable started to work normally gain (this was the most annoying thing, it was impossible to find the source of the problem when suddenly there is no symptoms, even with many restarts, many different software tests)
    4- Disassembled the base case and accessed the controller to measure with multimeter every motor connections: all got 4.5V~ except the extruder, but only when motor was attached!
    5- Used the multimeter to check the resistance of each wire and found that the green wire was not having conductivity ! TA-DA !!
    6- Looked carefully and realised that the head cable on the serial plug was very compressed, too compressed for my taste (unfortunately I didn't take any photo before fixing it)
    7- Stripped off the heatshrink sleeve and exposed one wire that was very squeezed. Stripped off that wire and found that it was broken.

    After fixing the wire and added an heatshrink sleeve for the motor cable and left it outside of the serial plug case.
    There was no need at all to have it inside.

    The cable is now even more flexible near the head and it will not break any wire inside again.

    My extrusion problems are gone.

    Photos here:
    https://plus.google.com/112766494507...ts/AERKTCEYBxj

    I definitely recommend that everyone check the serial plug and move the motor wires outside of it.
    Last edited by Joao; 01-01-2015 at 07:54 PM.

  4. #54
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    Hi Joao

    Nice work fixing the problem.
    Seems i had the theory right but missed the actual practical problems and so suggested measures to far down the chain.
    Your pics and work will surely help others.

    Thanks for sharing.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joao View Post
    I had some intermittent problems with the extruder, making it turning around 1mm back and forward very quickly instead of a continuous rotation, doing that clicking noise.

    After fixing the wire and added an heatshrink sleeve for the motor cable and left it outside of the serial plug case.
    There was no need at all to have it inside.

    The cable is now even more flexible near the head and it will not break any wire inside again.

    My extrusion problems are gone.

    Photos here:
    https://plus.google.com/112766494507...ts/AERKTCEYBxj

    I definitely recommend that everyone check the serial plug and move the motor wires outside of it.
    I am guessing you saw something like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScyI13XLlfE
    I am going to check my DB9 connection tomorrow. Thanks for the idea!

  6. #56
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    I'm having same cliking issue here.
    After reading the whole topic, I could eliminate almost every solutions.
    Actually for me it's the stepper motor that skips a step, the force required to push the filament exceed the motor capability.
    So, basically that means the filament is not melted enough, or not quickly enough.
    That's not a temperature setpoint issue as it's more or less the same from 190°C to 220°C.
    The problem is the heat exchange between the heating resistance unit and the head of the extruder.
    You can do a very simple test just by decreasing the manual extrusion speed (eg: I have no more clicking for 7mm/s with 1.75 PLA).

    Now it works manually, you have to adjust the extrusion max flow. I used for the test 5mm3/s (instead of 12mm3/s). No more clicking.
    It will increase automatically the time needed to print a part but the final result is just a perfect quality, very solid.
    That is the immediate and simplest solution.

    I think we could as well:
    - increase a bit the force of the stepper with the pot (as explained previously in this thread) because it is very low.
    - reduce the spring force on the L-arm (it will basically allow the feeding wheel to slide on the filament so you cannot get high quality neither solid parts this way)
    - improve the heating unit:
    * use thermal compount around the resistance
    * reduce as much as possible the space between the resistance unit and the head of the extruder (I have like 0.2mm instead of a good contact, so no conductive heating... And use thermal compount here as well to improve conductivity
    * increase the distance between the resistance unit and the heatsink.
    * maybe use a more powerfull resistance once the thermal conductivity factor will be improved.

    Julien

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Julien View Post
    I'm having same cliking issue here.
    After reading the whole topic, I could eliminate almost every solutions.
    Actually for me it's the stepper motor that skips a step, the force required to push the filament exceed the motor capability.
    So, basically that means the filament is not melted enough, or not quickly enough.
    That's not a temperature setpoint issue as it's more or less the same from 190°C to 220°C.
    The problem is the heat exchange between the heating resistance unit and the head of the extruder.
    You can do a very simple test just by decreasing the manual extrusion speed (eg: I have no more clicking for 7mm/s with 1.75 PLA).

    Now it works manually, you have to adjust the extrusion max flow. I used for the test 5mm3/s (instead of 12mm3/s). No more clicking.
    It will increase automatically the time needed to print a part but the final result is just a perfect quality, very solid.
    That is the immediate and simplest solution.

    I think we could as well:
    - increase a bit the force of the stepper with the pot (as explained previously in this thread) because it is very low.
    - reduce the spring force on the L-arm (it will basically allow the feeding wheel to slide on the filament so you cannot get high quality neither solid parts this way)
    - improve the heating unit:
    * use thermal compount around the resistance
    * reduce as much as possible the space between the resistance unit and the head of the extruder (I have like 0.2mm instead of a good contact, so no conductive heating... And use thermal compount here as well to improve conductivity
    * increase the distance between the resistance unit and the heatsink.
    * maybe use a more powerfull resistance once the thermal conductivity factor will be improved.

    Julien
    Julien, you probably are tightening the L-bar too much.
    If the L-bar bearing is pressed too much against the extruder rod, the motor with the normal operation voltage does not have enough force to move.
    If you apply more voltage (speed) to compensate that extra pressure it will definitely work, but it might lower the longevity of the motor.

    Another thing I did was removing the transparent tube. Even me manually pulling the filament through it was evident of too much force needed for a motor. At least with the filament provided by Rapide, new ones I bought are more straight and thinner, still, I don't think the tube is really needed since my room has no dust flying around.
    Last edited by Joao; 02-15-2015 at 10:53 PM.

  8. #58
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    One other thing you can do is add a lubricating rod (sponge inside a plastic cap that lubricates filament as it goes)...

  9. #59
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    Im another one who has had this issue, was printing fine for days then it started the clicking & poor feed of the filament.
    What fixed mine was just tightening the grub screw that holds the heating element in place, it had come slightly loose, been fine since, its worth a check if you have issues.

 

 

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