Extruder making clicking noise

[JonatanJacobsson]

In my search for a fix for my printer doing some weird clicking noise and stopping extrusion, i found this list on google on Common Extrusion problems and how to fix them.

I've tried step 1 and 2 already, but im starting to think that im running the printer too fast. @100mm/s right now. Didnt have the clicking noise before, when i ran @60mm/s.

"Common Extrusion problems
1. Filament temp set too low
2. Screw too tight/loose that puts pressure on Hobbed pulley
3.filament diameter too large in spots causing intermittent issues
4.filament guide is needed to assist feed(before and after Hobbed pulley)
5.low current to extruder motor(adjust the pot on the board)
6.Motor is starting to fail.(clicking even though the pot is adjusted)
7.Nozzle tip is too close to the bed(poor bed leveling causes initial clicking)
8.Poor grade of filament material or moisture absorption.
9.g-code possibly set up incorrectly"

Source: http://help.printrbot.com/Answers/Vi...ing#answer6688

[synthius]

From my experience the clicking sound has been indicative of misaligned feeder cogwheel. The filament is not being fed into the hot end because the cogwheels teeth do not penetrate the filament. You will need to disassemble the Q-Extruder and remove the L-Arm to get to the feeder cogwheel. You can then unscrew the set screw and re-position the feeder cogwheel to be aligned with the centerline of the hole leading to the hot end. Ethan knows of this issue and recommended this solution to me. Future iterations of the Q-Extruder should not have this quality issue.

[Maindog]

My printer seems to be experiencing this also - however it's not due to misalignment of the cogwheel. I've managed to print a few objects (which turned out great!) but now the extruder seems to struggle and the flow doesn't seem to be anywhere near as fluid as it was. Print quality suffers greatly as a result. I suspect the extruder temperature isn't as high as that being reported by the thermocouple, but I need to invest in a contactless thermometer to verify this.

[synthius]

I actually started to have this problem today. I too believe it might be the temperature of the hour end because it seems to stop after a few failed prints...I also need to get a heat gun to verify this... Let me know what you find maindog

[JonatanJacobsson]

Thanks for all the help!

Same story for me Maindog - i've printed a few really nice objects, but then i started playing with the settings :P
When i stopped playing with my settings and went back to the settings Ethan supplied = problem fixed
I think the problem originated in a combination of the things you mentioned and faster printspeeds. I had it running at 150mm/s, which is the maximium of this printer. Until i get the settings to perfectly match up, i dont think you'll be able to hit that maximum speed.

[bolsoncerrado]

Seems the temp issue is now a MAJOR issue?

[JonatanJacobsson]

Could be. Or some other setting.

I reverted to the default settings and printed an object. The print was killed some how mid-print. First print it got stuck at layer 13/80. Second print got stuck at 40/80. Dont know what could be wrong this time, maybe some slicing-issue, i installed the Experimental version of Slic3r (1.21) because i heard the slicing-process would be much faster - which it was The slicing took 30sec down from 3-4 minutes, significantly improving the time spent slicing. But, what good is that when i now cant print whole objects xD Will have to revert to the normal version Slic3r and reslice object.

[Maindog]

So after spending a few hours this evening manually extruding at different temperatures, rates and tension on the L-Arm, I've come to the conclusion that temperature isn't all that much of an issue. What's critical is that the correct tension is set using the two grub screws on the L-Arm. Previously I was winding that right up thinking that compressing the spring would result in the highest grip pressure on the filament, but I've since found that a much looser 'setting' on these screws eliminates the clunking (which is point 2 on the list posted above!). I basically just set the extruder to run continuously using Pronterface and loosened the screws off until the clunking stopped. It might be my imagination but the rate of extrusion looks to have slowed a bit, so might be a bit of a compromise here.

On temperature:
I've also attempted to measure the temperature of the extruder but i'm having trouble getting a consistent reading with my IR thermometer. It's definitely getting to temperature (measured 180°C at one point) but the outside of the extruder seems to be 30 - 50°C below the internal reading however due to the above I'm beginning to trust the internal measurement. Once the tension screws were adjusted i was able to get a nice clear PLA filament to extrude at 190°C where previously I had to push it to 210 to print reliably. I may be able to get my hands on a FLIR camera for the weekend, so I'll post an update on this and consistency of bed heating if i get a chance to use it.

On a side note, all this manual extrusion makes my computer room look as though it was invaded by a swarm of robotic spiders with all the strings of orange PLA strewn about the place...

[bolsoncerrado]

Rapide always recommended "Cura" since the beginning... i wonder if all softwares will have same issues or not...

[JonatanJacobsson]

Nice that you solved it Maindog! Im starting to think that the cogwheel, or whatever its called, is the source of this. But it's been said that the Q-extruder will have another design in the coming models of the Rapide Lite, so maybe they will fix it

I did one try with Cura yesterday, just some default settings, but the print didnt go so well, hehe... I'll do some more testing on slicing with Cura - but Slic3r is giving me good results so far altough i find that i takes a really long time slicing multiple objects. So maybe on some future print with multiple objects, i'll give Cura one more try