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  1. #31
    Regular 3D Printer
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    For those of you wondering about "clicking", please pay very close attention.

    I was one of those fortunate enough that my printer "just worked". I printed an item and it was flawless, then after a great print I started to get the dreaded clicking on the extruder.

    Reluctantly I pulled everything apart. I really didnt want to do it, and figured if it worked once it should work again. Alas, I gave in and pulled it apart.

    Here is what I found. I dont believe that the feeding wheel is in the wrong place on the shaft, what I found was that the motor mount did not sit flush on the motor! In fact, after pulling apart the motor from the motor mount I found that it was physically impossible for the motor to sit flat in that mount. The motor mount bracket is simply too small.

    Here is what I had to do, I had to file down the motor so it would fit flush in the mounting bracket.

    BUT, the good news is, once it was fixed everything has just been absolutely flawless. My advice is that everyone needs to ensure that they make this modification before tinkering with the extruder. Unless your extruder is properly seated, and the pieces properly aligned, and time you spend dialing in the extruder will be for not.

    IMG_0595.jpgIMG_0592.jpgIMG_0593.jpg

  2. #32
    3D Printer Noob
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    I had just taken my extruder apart when I spotted your thread. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.

  3. #33
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Im not sure how are we supposed to reduce this in a brand new item even if crowfunded... I mean, we arent supposed to be disassembling the extruder in the very first place

  4. #34
    3D Printer Legend
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    Just to make this clear, are you talking about the meeting of the main faces, or are you talking about the edges of the parts not being flush ?

    Oh, and be very careful with the heating element and the thermistor parts/wires as we already have two casualties that we know of

  5. #35
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Mine has been working perfectly after doing 3 things:
    1- increased the temperature to 220º
    2- removed the transparent plastic hose
    3- placed the roller above the printer

    The temperature increase: I noticed that even trying to extrude manually, using my hands helping out, pushing the filament it was really hard. No wonder that the motor was not strong enough to do the same force, and that 'clicking' noise was when the grit wheel removed a bit of plastic from the filament and lost the grip. When this starts to happen then the filament starts to get thinner and thiner there and it will never move again without a manual intervention.

    Removing attrition: The filament that came with Rapide Lite 200 1.75mm generates a lot of attrition going through that transparent plastic tube. When I tried to manually pull the filament through it and simulate the force necessary for the motor, I was impressed that it even worked sometimes. Added up with the previous point, the force needed for the motor, the grip and the quality of the filament, everything made it impossible to work.
    I also moved the roller above the printer because it gives an extra free of attrition pull.
    Its been working without any problems since then.

    IMG_2174.jpg

  6. #36
    3D Printer Legend
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    @ Joao - just a thought, the plastic tube helps prevent dirt, dust etc from entering the extruder, now you have moved the reel directly above the extruder it should lessen the friction and not be a problem anymore?

  7. #37
    Expert 3D Printer
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    I moved the reel before removing the tube, and it was not enough.
    I might need to use something else rather than the tube to prevent dirt and dust to go in, something soft.

  8. #38
    Regular 3D Printer
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    @bobenhamhotspur in the second photo you will note how I had to file down the diameter of that locator so that it would fit into the motor mount. Until I did that the motor would not sit flush on the mount. I wish I would have snapped a photo of it before I took it apart. There was a gap of probably 1/4 inch between the motor and the motor mount, once that locator could slip into the motor mount properly problem was solved.

  9. #39
    3D Printer Noob
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    i had print issues as well. It prints fine for the first few centimeters where there is slack between the extruder and spool. However, once the slack finishes, the extruder starts skipping and plastic does not get extruded smoothly.

    Can someone post pics on how you set up your printer and spool holder? @Joao, some pics on the location of your spool with respect to your printer would be helpful.
    Thanks.

  10. #40
    Regular 3D Printer
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    I got so tired of the clicking noise and the misaligned pulley/feeder wheel. I have taken the extruder apart three times and it is all due to the pulley. You can not align it properly since the tension screw is beneath the flat side of the shaft. SO RADICAL SOLUTION: FLIP THE PULLEY. Mine is now printing beautifully and fast, finally! I made a new plate to hold it all together and used the old screws to fasten it.

    Use at own risk!

    Do not forget to print the plate.stl before you take away the extruder (you can print the plate.stl with a flipped pulley and without the original plate attached, I did)
    1. take the extruder apart gently.
    2. flip the pulley
    3. tighten the tension screw against the flat side of the shaft.
    4. assemble the extruder.
    5. finally attach the 3D printed plate, use the screws from original plate to fasten it.
    6. Enjoy!!!!!!
    FullSizeRender.jpgAttachment 235

    Download plate at: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ra...extruder-plate
    Last edited by Broome; 12-29-2014 at 03:10 PM.

 

 

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