heated bed for cube3D

[ztoddman1]

I attempted this exact mod. Well, before ya'll get excited, I ordered the stuff. Thats about as far as I got, I had this page bookmarked and a youtube page but cant find it.
https://www.terrylu.cloud/arduino-heat-bed
foudn it- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4R2amZj_uc

[buddybu]

That's not me. mine is a Cube gen 2 update. Not very pretty in the end, but it works. I am using an BigTreeTech SKR V1.4 with TMC 2209 steppers. It runs quite well and is a very quiet printer.

http://cube3d.createaforum.com/gener...-its-alive!!!/

[dougk12]

Awesome^2

Those plans look really good and that Cube 2 conversion is NUTS.

The light sensor is an interesting solution. I was thinking more along the lines of a timer but that might also work. Potentially, in reverse since the 3rd gen fires up the LEDs when the print is nearing completion.

[ztoddman1]

my concern is how the heat mat will work with the current magnets on the cube 3. With my tornado and A8, the 4 levelling screws were made into the mat.

[dougk12]

Looks like quite a few people are concerned about the magnets but I found this, which indicates 212f/100c is the limit. Anything above this will result in a permanent decrease in magnetic strength. There is a temporary loss of magnetic strength above 176f/80c.

I think that leaves plenty of wiggle room!

Rare Earth Magnet Max Heat

[ztoddman1]

I guess my issue, was how to put the heat element, whether it be a pad or self run copper wiring onto the current build plate or if I should affix it like a prusa build plate with the springs. I didnt know what to expect under the white plasticy coating of the plate but after finding a site that shows it, all it is a piece of aluminium, with 2 holes that magnets are affixed to and the coating. Guess I over thought it a touch. Awaiting parts now to try. Luckily I have a bed plate that the plastic is splitting so that will be the guniea pig.

- - - - - - - - - -

SO I reached out to Keenovo, the ones who makes a lot of the heat pads and inquired to see if they could make a heat pad for the Cube3D. I used their standard 150x150 mat but with 3 added holes for the magnets so it should (my thoughts) fit nicely under the build plate. 2 heat wires, 2 thermistor wires, 3M adhesive to the bottom. Any other ideas that I am missing? By the way, they quoted a price of $35.00 per mat, which I, judging from the price of these things, it wasnt that bad.
Guru TommyD, got any input?

[dougk12]

Wherever this lands, I am in . I would probably purchase two mats initially (maybe more).

[TommyDee]

Me too. A heater pad with clearance holes for Cube3 would be great. Is there a minimum order requirement?

I know that under the white pad is a lot of very yucky gooey gluey sticky crap. I prefer the leave the flattened white plate in place and do some filler work to solidify the magnet spaces and cover the whole lot with LokBuild. Remember that you want flat and there is no reason to think the aluminum alone is flat.

[ztoddman1]

minimum is 3.
With this coming into light, I have to step back and rethink how I want to control it. 24V, 12V, 110V?? Heard, uh, read that several use these,
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-ITC-1000/dp/B00OXPE8U6 m

Of course, this would be 110V but could easily use a wall wart or CPU power supply for the 24V or 12V.

TD, with your build plate stabilizer and incredible wealth of the C3D, could you come up with a scale drawing of the exact placement of the magnets with the build plate?

[dougk12]

I think ztodd's idea is to stick the heating pad to the under-side of the OEM plate, with clearance for the magnets and platforms they ride on. I love it!

Doesn't add thickness, easy to install, allows someone to easily add their preferred bed on top (or leave OEM). If Keenovo can cut these 3 holes to a high degree of accuracy, this would also serve to secure the plate against x and y axis wobble.

I am SO in. Fire it up!

Another idea - A switch could be hidden in the "cup" of the printer base that would tell the controller that the print completed - turn off heated bed. No need for timer or any other clever solutions.