Thanks Thanks:  1
Likes Likes:  3
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 27 of 27
  1. #21
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Tbilisi, Georgia
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by dougk12 View Post
    I think ztodd's idea is to stick the heating pad to the under-side of the OEM plate, with clearance for the magnets and platforms they ride on. I love it!

    Doesn't add thickness, easy to install, allows someone to easily add their preferred bed on top (or leave OEM). If Keenovo can cut these 3 holes to a high degree of accuracy, this would also serve to secure the plate against x and y axis wobble.

    I am SO in. Fire it up!

    Another idea - A switch could be hidden in the "cup" of the printer base that would tell the controller that the print completed - turn off heated bed. No need for timer or any other clever solutions.
    Another option can be sticking the custom made PCB heater on the bottom of the OEM print surface, with the same 3 holes, that will act as stabilizers.

  2. #22
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    39
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey Ztodd, how goes it? Please PM me when you are ready to purchase initial batch of pads. I am in for two.

    "With this coming into light, I have to step back and rethink how I want to control it. 24V, 12V, 110V??"
    IMO, full 110V is overkill and not worth the added risk for such a small bed. My vote is to use 24V.

    That InkBird controller appears to be an all in one 110v controller? It has the SSR built in?
    Last edited by dougk12; 04-08-2021 at 03:13 PM.

  3. Likes Kiza liked this post
  4. #23
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Tbilisi, Georgia
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like
    I would also test one! Love the idea of getting back the original print bed.
    My setup is 24V
    Also we need to source the proper strong magnets and glue.
    Last edited by Kiza; 04-09-2021 at 09:19 AM.

  5. #24
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    159
    Post Thanks / Like
    AFter the initial email, seems like my follow up email to them got lost. Kiza, do you have a file to get the exact location of the magnets? Im hesistant to "draw up" a template of where to put the holes.

  6. #25
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Tbilisi, Georgia
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ztoddman1 View Post
    AFter the initial email, seems like my follow up email to them got lost. Kiza, do you have a file to get the exact location of the magnets? Im hesistant to "draw up" a template of where to put the holes.
    Centers of magnets are 32mm apart from the center of the bed, both horizontally and vertically. Bed size is 170mm x 170mm.

    Currently I'm using 160mm x 160mm silicon heater, without holes.

    I can produce AI/DXF file, if needed

  7. #26
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    3,236
    Post Thanks / Like
    The magnets are actually placed on the English system IIRC.
    This should make a good template - it is a perfect fit at 100%
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3803078

  8. #27
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    159
    Post Thanks / Like
    that would be great Kiza, I know what a dxf file is but what is ai?


    Quote Originally Posted by Kiza View Post
    Centers of magnets are 32mm apart from the center of the bed, both horizontally and vertically. Bed size is 170mm x 170mm.

    Currently I'm using 160mm x 160mm silicon heater, without holes.

    I can produce AI/DXF file, if needed

 

 

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •