Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  2
Dislikes Dislikes:  1
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Mistake?

  1. #11
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    LOL thanks for all the great questions onthuhlist.


    eBay for the glass - glue magnets underneath - I used ShoeGoo so you could remove the magnets if desired.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/170mm-x-170...D/332155620354

    PETG will pit b-glass. I have LokBuild on one of my glass plates. I don't have much use for these glass plates but they are good solid spares, probably flatter than the stock plates.
    Any preference on magnets? I presume they're just standard mags and not neodymium?

  2. #12
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    3,385
    Post Thanks / Like
    They are indeed Neodymium magnets, N42 to be sure. 3/4"D x 3/32"T. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DC03

  3. #13
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well, I'm glad I asked! Good stuff! And the ShoeGoo holds on to the glass well?

  4. #14
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    3,385
    Post Thanks / Like
    ShoeGoo is like liquid rubber. Peels off clean but holds like RTV.

    Put magnets on both sides of the glass to minimize the gap as the ShoeGoo cures. Give it 12 hours. Joann's sells mini-tubes for minimal use.

    You could use a 2-sides tape. Just remember that once you commit the magnet, it's probably permanent on that piece of glass.

  5. #15
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ah, good stuff. Yeah, I figured I would align the glass plate underneath one of my existing print plates so that it would align the magnets both correctly in polarity and placement. The magnets I ordered come in a 16 pack though, so I could stack a set in between the plates to get the added pull.

  6. Likes TommyDee liked this post
  7. #16
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    110
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey TommyDee, just to make sure I understand your statement above. This setting impacts how much of the plate is checked for the auto level function (9 points)? IE, a higher number means that the nine checks are spread apart more? When I adjust this setting it simply moves the print plate up and down so I suspect that I am not following you unless... that is the point that the plate moves to during auto-calibrate and that standard distance impacts auto-level? I could spin myself in an endless logic circle on this one

    calibrate.jpg
    Last edited by dougk12; 03-24-2021 at 03:28 PM.

  8. #17
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    3,385
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yes where ever you land on CAL 1 is the default gap the system considers to be 'zero'.
    For this to take affect, you must hit the hidden button to the right of CAL 2 to complete the process.

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •