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  1. #1
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    Is there a way to fix divots in a Cube3 print bed?

    Hello fellow Cubers,

    I recently got a brand new in the box Cube3 that had never printed before. The filament is very brittle, but printable. I used the "Auto Gap" feature and assumed it would fine, and it was for the first few test prints. Anyways, I neglected to check the gap before a print and found the nozzle had made numerous small indentations in the center of the bed! I am not planning on using it bare for long, as I intend on taking @TommyDee's suggestion of using the LokBuild surface. But in the mean time, Is there a way I can fill these divots to provide a flat sub straight again?

    Cheers,

    T3x

  2. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Hard to tell what will remain if you deposit plastic on top and peel it afterwards... perhaps epoxy glue (bicomponent) sanded down to level?

    How much was it btw?

  3. #3
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    https://imgur.com/a/dfOKfGt is a picture of the divots on the print bed.

    Or were you meaning how much did I get the printer for?

  4. #4
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    Hey T3x, you won't need to fill those divots in before putting a Lokbuild (or any other platform) over the top of it because that base is stiff and thick enough that it will not sag or give. I've refurbed over 10 print plates and a light sanding and good cleaning is all you'll need. The sanding will ensure that any high points created when the tip pressed into the plate are knocked down. After sanding, wash with soap/water and then alcohol to ensure it's nice and clean.

    After installing the new print base, fire up another auto level and don't be surprised if you have to adjust level slightly.

    *NEVER* trust the auto gap function! This function only sets the height of the print jet assembly and print tip lengths can vary enough to matter.

    Validate auto gap with the gauge (.1mm) or a piece of paper, adjust manually and then write it down so you can make fine adjustments quickly in the future. A few test prints and adjustments @ ~.05mm up or down will turn into your perfect z gap.
    Last edited by dougk12; 03-18-2021 at 05:31 PM.

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  6. #5
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T3x@p0rT View Post
    https://imgur.com/a/dfOKfGt is a picture of the divots on the print bed.

    Or were you meaning how much did I get the printer for?
    Yep price you paid, if you did.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougk12 View Post
    Hey T3x, you won't need to fill those divots in before putting a Lokbuild (or any other platform) over the top of it because that base is stiff and thick enough that it will not sag or give. I've refurbed over 10 print plates and a light sanding and good cleaning is all you'll need. The sanding will ensure that any high points created when the tip pressed into the plate are knocked down. After sanding, wash with soap/water and then alcohol to ensure it's nice and clean.

    After installing the new print base, fire up another auto level and don't be surprised if you have to adjust level slightly.

    *NEVER* trust the auto gap function! This function only sets the height of the print jet assembly and print tip lengths can vary enough to matter.

    Validate auto gap with the gauge (.1mm) or a piece of paper, adjust manually and then write it down so you can make fine adjustments quickly in the future. A few test prints and adjustments @ ~.05mm up or down will turn into your perfect z gap.
    Hey Dougk12,

    Thanks for clarifying that for me. I was concerned that the divots may come through the LokBuild sub straight. But it sounds like it is rigid and thick enough for that not to be an issue.

    I will not use the auto gap for anything moving forward, that's for sure. I actually still have the original gap gauge that the printer came with. Ill set it using that from now on.

    Thanks,

    T3x

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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    Yep price you paid, if you did.

    Hey bolsoncerrado,

    I got the printer as a gift from my wife. She got it used from an older fellow in my city for $200 with 3 cartridges. One Neon Green PLA, One Black PLA and One silver ABS. Apparently, it was a gift to his, at the time, teenage sons, from his mother in law. They never even attempted a print with it and have since moved out and everything was still in bags!!!

    I got it, set it up and ran the auto level and gap and ran the test print in the silver ABS it came with. It looked awesome with my noob eyes.

    After trying my first non test 3d print, I found the filament continuously was breaking. By the time I got so frustrated I gave up, it had been a solid 24hrs of attempts.

    I was willing to accept the lemon and thought I should see what else is out there. I found there to be firmware mods, filament mods and numerous parts and pieces I can print to make my life easier, but I had to make it print first.

    So I did some ghetto fabulous re engineering and took a 7/64 drill bit and ran it through the nozzle housing to straighten the input to the extruder. It worked better but still had more drag on the filament than I liked. So I removed the spool from the cartridge and made it feed through the hole at the bottom of the cartridge from a spool holder instead. I was able to print numerous things with minimal error but still had some serious retraction.

    After about 3 days of tinkering and testing, my wife says she got her money back. I was concerned because I had already frankenstiend this dudes now un resellable printer. But she informed he requested I keep the printer as he felt bad my bday present was a lemon and gave the money back!

    So I bought some M6 fittings and feeder tubing and used https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2735871 to make some parts. I was able to scab it together with this setup, but now that I have it all setup with this, I am finding inefficiencies in the design. So I will be rebuilding using TommyDee's adaptation when I can.

    Cheers,

    T3x

  8. #7
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    You'll love TommyDee's B2B rig. I use a slightly different setup with a P2C fitting at the cartridge. I only have a single cartridge rigged up at print jet 1 with an opened cartridge face so I can feed anything externally. I use Simplify3D so I leave that same cartridge, which the printer sees as 'ABS White', in place. My S3D profiles for other materials just use the same material code - 136 = ABS White. The only two things I care about are whether the built in purge function works at top temp when needed (no matter what material is currently installed) and whether I can actually begin the print job .

    I've had clogged print jets caused by 'standby' heat of the second print jet while it sits idle, so I only add a second when needed. I never do multi-color prints so that just leaves INF (PVA). I keep an OEM INF cartridge around for the rare event that I need to add it and fire up the OEM slicer for melt away support. S3D supports are so good that the use of PVA is really rare.

    You have the OEM ABS so you can print all of it. Cutting the PTFE tubes manually can be tricky and frustrating. I make those on my lathe and sell those for $10 a pair shipped in US. Let me know if you need any assistance. I also have all of the B2B components sliced with S3D, which will save you time on post processing.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Hey T3x and others, I think I found a great tool for refinishing the print plate. The 4$ Harbor Freight wet stone or grinding stone is wide enough and flat enough to do a great job. I only used the course side and just a little bit of work followed up by a soapy water then alcohol cleaning and the surface is brand new again. It appears that I managed to take out the high spot and couple of low spots on the plate also. My stone had oil in it from normal use and that didn't appear to be an issue at all.

    The goal is to remove as little material as possible. Keep the stone flat with constant pressure and pick a 'sanding' process that is consistent across the entire plate.

    After I was done, my auto level remained unchanged but I had to increase my z-gap .04mm.

    Still need to find a home for this Lokbuild though. I need a dedicated ABS rig
    Last edited by dougk12; 03-26-2021 at 04:36 PM.

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  10. #8
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    LokBuild and Cube Glue, Doug. It's a perfect surface for ABS. Try it once and you won't be sorry. Never wash away the glue - it recycles perfectly.




  11. #9
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    You talked me into it . I am now one of the converted. Only been able to tune and perform some testing so far but very impressed. My 1st Elmer's Purple glue stick print stuck so hard that it tore the bottom layer when I tried to "pop" it off by hand, which I am accustomed to doing with OEM plate and glue stick prints.

    I tested a handful of my gotos and Cube glue is clearly the best. Just applied your over brim and prepping to rip out some ABS today.

    Good stuff! Thanks!

    I will say that I am so happy with Elmer's purple glue sticks on the OEM platform in my CubePro that I won't convert it but very impressed with the product so far. The heated chamber really makes ABS printing easy.

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  13. #10
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    Thanks for the feedback Doug. I only run 3DS ABS on CubePro. The older the 3DS ABS, the stronger the stick.
    This is how I get away with a very casual layer gap. PETG should behave the same.

 

 

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