3D Systems Ekocycle Printer - The Cube 3's Strange Cousin

[Wiz]

Oh, you were able to use the toolbox to modify the EKO firmware so the cart never goes down? I wasn't aware that was an option! It absolutely works for the Cube 3 but I was under the impression that it only worked for the Cube 3. Can you verify that you used the toolkit to modify the EKO firmware and then installed = no more chip decrease?

I can confirm that the pro version of the recube allows to convert a 3DS EEPROM chip from any 3DS printer cart type to any other printer cart type, except for the Cube2. You can convert a Cube2 to anything else but no support for the Cube 2 (that I am aware of).

Awesome that you are making a rewand but there are some folks here that would also program your chips for you for free (TommyDee) if you send him the chips and a return envelope. Just in case you're only doing it to reprogram that batch of chips.

I recommend 2 PLA (for multi color PLA prints), 1 ABS (multi color ABS prints don't work - warps when swapping colors), 1 INF and 2 EKO.

I misunderstood, no I have a patched copy of the Ekocycle v1.05 firmware that doesn't decrement counts. That's what I'm currently using on one Eko with a physically modified cartridge so I can feed it strait off a spool sitting on the side. It's been at 58% for a week now through a few prints. So far I'm liking the quality of the prints coming off the Eko with the Eko firmware (before my build plate mishap), and may leave it that way and continue to run my ABS prints on my CTC. I ended up with a Makerbot Replicator 2 in the same lot of "broken printers" that I may replace the CTC with. My long term plan at the moment is to eventually run the Eko with Cube firmware and PETG in one cartridge and ABS in the other if the software will work that way.

[dougk12]

I'd like to get a hold of that modified version of Eko firmware. Did you find it on this forum? I tried using the Cube Toolbox on a number of Eko firmware versions but no luck.

[Wiz]

I wanted to stop in and thank everyone for their input and advice on the Eko, and share my latest print. This is running Eko firmware, Eko cartridge modified to feed from a spool, using Overture PETG sticking to the Overture build surface and a light layer of hair spray. Mind you this is also with a printhead carriage held together with epoxy and sheet metal, so they're quite forgiving.
Eko-fiberbox1.jpg
The only hangup with this setup is that it really doesn't like to autolevel with the Overture build surface on it, and peeling it off and putting it back on gets expensive. I've been thinking of clipping another layer of "something" to the build surface to level then removing it for the manual z gap.

Anyway, thanks again and Happy New Year. This thing makes a great little "down and dirty" quick print machine when it's working <laugh>

Steve

[bolsoncerrado]

Pretty decent result for an Eko definetly!!

[TommyDee]

Have a look here - http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...hlight=z-ticks

I don't ever auto-level.

I wanted to stop in and thank everyone for their input and advice on the Eko, and share my latest print. This is running Eko firmware, Eko cartridge modified to feed from a spool, using Overture PETG sticking to the Overture build surface and a light layer of hair spray. Mind you this is also with a printhead carriage held together with epoxy and sheet metal, so they're quite forgiving.
Eko-fiberbox1.jpg
The only hangup with this setup is that it really doesn't like to autolevel with the Overture build surface on it, and peeling it off and putting it back on gets expensive. I've been thinking of clipping another layer of "something" to the build surface to level then removing it for the manual z gap.

Anyway, thanks again and Happy New Year. This thing makes a great little "down and dirty" quick print machine when it's working <laugh>

Steve

[Wiz]

Have a look here - http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...hlight=z-ticks

I don't ever auto-level.

I've never manually leveled a 3 point bed but I'm sure with practice I could get it. Once having autoleveled though, how do you tell it to stop compensating?

[TommyDee]

You hear the ticks. It is a process. But you can test it with a border print to see if the filament is equally wide all around as a test.

I've lain a white sheet of paper on the surface to fool the sensor when I don't want to wash the glue off. Use that to remove the z-ticks, then use a gapping tool to level the bed manually. Find my border print to test you gapping ability. aha - http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...rim-Glue-Saver