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  1. #71
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Cube3 and Ekocycle count steps from the bottom.
    The Cube2 does as well. Just throwing my $.02 out there, but it ain't worth what it used to be.

  2. #72
    3D Printer Noob
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    Aug 2021
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    So I've got the Ekocycle firmware working, have a workable approach to fixing 4mm tubes to the cartridges, have downloaded a few designs for hubs, and have considered moving to the Cube 3 firmware so I picked up 3 nanos to start working on a Recube to rewrite the chips from Ekocycle to Cube 3 cartridges. Until I get the ReCube working I'd like to print some things off on the Ekocycle as it is. Since it came to me secondhand I don't have any of the accessories, but it keeps prompting me for "glue". I tried purple gluestick like I use on my glass beds and that was a failure. I saw earlier in the thread that some folks have had success with MatterHackers PETG filament, but what do people use as "glue" for adhesion?

  3. #73
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Hi Wiz, awesome news. It sounds like you are well on your way to fully unlocking that Cube3.

    I personally use Elmer's Purple with PETG but I will use Cube Glue for the bigger prints. I will also use Cube Glue for large PLA prints. I've tested quite a few other glues and Cube Glue remains the top performer, by far. Cube Glue and Lokbuild is a great combination even for large ABS prints.

    If you're having trouble with Elmers for all prints, I would suspect that your Z gap isn't quite right. A little advice...
    1. NEVER trust the auto z gap - it measures the distance between the print head assembly and the plate, and the actual length of the print tips vary enough to matter.
    2. I recommend validating or manually setting the z gap with the OEM gauge or a piece of printer paper (also .1mm thick) and then recording that setting.
    3. Test print something small and adjust the z gap slightly (+ or - .05-.1mm) based on the results - was it too lose or did it squash the 1st layer?
    4. Rinse and repeat until you have the perfect z gap then record this number, so you can easily set it in the future (if you let auto-calibrate reset the z gap accidentally).
    *I have quite a few Cube3s so I change the name of the printer to that perfect z gap. Keeps things easy for me.
    5. In the future, when the printer prompts you to auto calibrate, let it auto level then simply cancel the z gap function after.

  4. #74
    Super Moderator
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    FWIW - I have a few extra bottles of CubeGlue I could sell if anyone really needs some. I swear by CubeGlue on LokBuild. Used properly, a bottle can last well over a year.

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  6. #75
    3D Printer Noob
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    Aug 2021
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    Sitting here listening to my Ekocycle making it's first print from a spool mod I finished up this morning coming off an external spool of Overture PETG, and feeling a bit of gratitude for everyone's help. So thank you everyone that put in a little time talking me through getting this thing going. It does a MUCH nicer job than my CTC i3 Pro B (kit printer, I know. I put it together, my fault). Who know, maybe I'll print upgrade parts for the CTC on the Ekocycle :-)
    20210911_134458.jpg

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  8. #76
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Awesome! Just in case you weren't aware, you can easily swap between EKO and Cube3 firmware. I put a video showing how to do it out on YouTube when you're ready to knock down some PLA or ABS parts.

  9. #77
    3D Printer Noob
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    Aug 2021
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    I haven't built my recube yet, and I very quickly discovered that Ekocycle cartridges don't work with Cube 3 firmware. I did find my issue with the calibration, when I reassembled the print head I didn't have one of the leds seated all the way, so the cover plate holding the leveling sensors was off. After I figured that out I was able to relevel and set the gap.

    My last print before the leveling issues I left the printer running and when I came back the bed was on the floor and there was a pile of plastic spaghetti stuck to the print head. I suspect whenever the build plate came lose it knocked that cover plate (it wasn't latched anymore). I'm hoping this weekend I'll get to spend some time working on the adhesion issues and get some consistency going.

    Thank you for the input about Elmer's purple, was that with PETG or with all filaments?

    Quote Originally Posted by dougk12 View Post
    Awesome! Just in case you weren't aware, you can easily swap between EKO and Cube3 firmware. I put a video showing how to do it out on YouTube when you're ready to knock down some PLA or ABS parts.

  10. #78
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Yep, I use Elmer's purple for all but large PETG prints. It's almost as warp friendly as PLA.

    For firmware swaps, I recommend:
    EKO -> Cube 3 OEM -> Cube 3 modified (PLA, ABS and INF chips at 98% or lower)
    Cube 3 (either) -> EKO (only reads EKO chips and no chip write break available - use wand to reload chip quickly).

    It appears that you have an open source cart1 installed already. If you remove the PETG chip and clean off the adhesive from the chip and cartridge, you can then add a tacky adhesive to the cartridge so you can swap between filament chips easily. Drilling a small hole through the center of the chip seat of the cartridge is recommended, as it makes the swap even easier.

    If you plan to begin using the 2nd side, I recommend removing the printjet and cart when not in use. The standby temp for PJ2 is enough to change filament in it, eventually leading to a hard clog. This is especially true if it's ABS.

  11. #79
    3D Printer Noob
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougk12 View Post
    Yep, I use Elmer's purple for all but large PETG prints. It's almost as warp friendly as PLA.

    For firmware swaps, I recommend:
    EKO -> Cube 3 OEM -> Cube 3 modified (PLA, ABS and INF chips at 98% or lower)
    Cube 3 (either) -> EKO (only reads EKO chips and no chip write break available - use wand to reload chip quickly).

    It appears that you have an open source cart1 installed already. If you remove the PETG chip and clean off the adhesive from the chip and cartridge, you can then add a tacky adhesive to the cartridge so you can swap between filament chips easily. Drilling a small hole through the center of the chip seat of the cartridge is recommended, as it makes the swap even easier.

    If you plan to begin using the 2nd side, I recommend removing the printjet and cart when not in use. The standby temp for PJ2 is enough to change filament in it, eventually leading to a hard clog. This is especially true if it's ABS.
    When I got these printers I was given a half-dozen Eko cartridges, I just used the modified firmware so they don't decrement and replaced the tubes with 4mm ptfe. Took a bit of modifying the ends but it's all working. They all still have Eko chips in them though. I was reading somewhere that the Recube paid version can reprogram Eko cartridges as C3 and vice versa. Since I've played with Arduinos before I picked up the Nanos and plan to build one. One of the first things I did with the Eko was to re-flash it as Cube 3 without paying attention to the caveat in the post that says your Eko cartridges won't work anymore lol. I have been enjoying PETG, I'd never messed with it before. I've been fighting warping issues with ABS on my CTC Pro B and was happy to find the ABS type flexibility in PETG. I have some dog gate latches to print and am really thinking of just using PETG and see how it holds up. I am curious though, I was under the impression that the Cube Toolbox could patch Cube 3 firmware to not decrement? Did I get that wrong?

  12. #80
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Sep 2018
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    Oh, you were able to use the toolbox to modify the EKO firmware so the cart never goes down? I wasn't aware that was an option! It absolutely works for the Cube 3 but I was under the impression that it only worked for the Cube 3. Can you verify that you used the toolkit to modify the EKO firmware and then installed = no more chip decrease?

    I can confirm that the pro version of the recube allows to convert a 3DS EEPROM chip from any 3DS printer cart type to any other printer cart type, except for the Cube2. You can convert a Cube2 to anything else but no support for the Cube 2 (that I am aware of).

    Awesome that you are making a rewand but there are some folks here that would also program your chips for you for free (TommyDee) if you send him the chips and a return envelope. Just in case you're only doing it to reprogram that batch of chips.

    I recommend 2 PLA (for multi color PLA prints), 1 ABS (multi color ABS prints don't work - warps when swapping colors), 1 INF and 2 EKO.
    Last edited by dougk12; 09-16-2021 at 01:02 PM.

 

 

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