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  1. #1
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    How to make special section solid and rest infill

    Hi,

    I need to print a part and afterwards drill and tap a threaded hole. I am trying to print the part as one piece but would like to mark the section around the threaded hole to be solid and not use the infill settings for the whole piece. I've tried googling this but have come up with nothing. I was hoping there is something to say a certain section on the model before exporting the STL should be solid. If that doesn't work I could print it in a plane where it could start using infill at layer X or something if that was an option (not the best option!).

    Another option is to embed a hex nut but I'd have to be able to stop the print, retract (or move out of the way) and drop one it if possible. Is this a slicer/gcode thing or a printer driver thing?

    Model is in SketchUp and I use MatterControl with Cura slicer - but open to other options if need be.

    Thanks,
    Mike.
    Last edited by warx; 04-18-2015 at 09:00 PM.

  2. #2
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    Simplify3D I believe allows this kind of setting but it costs $149 so it depends on how much you need to have this kind of facility, however several of the guys on the Facebook group swear by it.
    Without seeing the whole model and the piece in particular you'd like to make 100% fill, is it possible to print the 100% piece separately and then acetone weld/glue it into place on the main part of the model? Alternatively, if your threaded piece does not need to be really strong you can design into the model a hole slightly smaller than your finished size and then just tap the hole to your finished size, as long as your shells are not too thin it might work.
    From my very limited use of MatterControl I do believe you can pause and resume so that may be a possibility, however try it first on a small item just to confirm.
    Gcode is the 'final code' so once it starts it keeps going to the end however you can create gcode using your slicer of choice and then edit it to add pauses etc into the final code.

  3. #3
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    ...or make a mold and cast copies in more solid stuff...

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the suggestions! I was looking at the notes for MatterControl and see "Improved Pause" in there but all I see is a "Cancel" button. Will continue to experiment (as you suggest with a simple small print). Plus I'd really like it to pause right at the point where it is about to do the first layer over the top of the captive nut. Then it made me realize that it would probably scaffolded supports in the cavity I would need to remove first - all without dislodging the print from the bed. I know the MarkForged printer (and software) has special functions for this sort of embedding. Sounding more like a harder option. I wondered if there was gcode tool that let you manually add some controls like retract and wait 2 minutes or something.

    Hmm - the mold idea is cool! I might investigate mold making materials as it sounds pretty fun. I was watching the video of the guy who prints molds directly (not plugs first) and lays up CF. Also an option too. Maybe there's a plugin for flipping a model to a mold.

    I might also experiment with the welding. The part is subject to some stress though - basically I am printing custom beer tap handles (hence the threaded bottom for screwing on the tap itself). My current material is PLA but could try ABS for better adhesion. Ultimately I want to use nylon but have not seen anyone trying it on the RL200 yet and don't know if I need the V3 extruder to do it or not.

    I think it's time I pony up for Simplify3D though. Seen it come up in so many answers.

  5. #5
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    I'm sure Taulmans Nylons can run in our machines, I've used their flexible PCTPE to try and make a phone case, 99.9% of it was bulletproof but I always got 1 layer that delaminated, but it was a thin print with a 90 degree turn so I may have to learn how to design/print around it.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by warx View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions! ........I'd really like it to pause right at the point where it is about to do the first layer over the top of the captive nut. ..............
    This is where you'd have to manually hack the gcode after the slicing is done to insert a pause into the code and then resume it. Don't ask me how to do it, I've seen an article about it but can't remember the details.

  6. #6
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    I pulled the trigger and purchased Simplify3D. Seems pretty nice! I was experimenting with the different regions (well at least per layer regions) and it is easy to do. One thing I noticed in my strength testing of drilling and tapping in PLA is that even with the section marked as 100% infill I was able to get the two outer skin levels to delaminate while holding the cylinder in a three-jaw chuck. The infill part seems pretty solid though. I had it at 190C with the stock RL silver PLA. Perhaps I'll try with 200+ to see if the infill and shell layers will fuse better - or maybe try decreasing the fan speed to keep the shell hotter.

    I am going to order some of the Taulmans Nylon to play with as well.

    BTW Good result for Spurs finally...

  7. #7
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by warx View Post
    I pulled the trigger and purchased Simplify3D. Seems pretty nice! I was experimenting with the different regions (well at least per layer regions) and it is easy to do. One thing I noticed in my strength testing of drilling and tapping in PLA is that even with the section marked as 100% infill I was able to get the two outer skin levels to delaminate while holding the cylinder in a three-jaw chuck. The infill part seems pretty solid though. I had it at 190C with the stock RL silver PLA. Perhaps I'll try with 200+ to see if the infill and shell layers will fuse better - or maybe try decreasing the fan speed to keep the shell hotter.

    I am going to order some of the Taulmans Nylon to play with as well.

    BTW Good result for Spurs finally...
    You can set the speed of the outer shell a bit slower and also increase the extrusion flow. That will definitely make the wall thicker and melt with the inner wall.
    If you are going to 100% infill, you can also leave only 1 perimeter shell with 50% infill outline overlap.
    The wall will be very solid.

  8. #8
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    Ah right - that's the nice thing about having a whole set of parameters for different layers. So... I tried it as suggested. There's an obvious "joint" where it switches from solid 1 perimeter to the 2 perimeter 25% infill layer (about 3 or 4 layers sort of bulge out of the cylinder a bit).

 

 

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