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  1. #1
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Broken board. Crap.

    Oh well.

    Got a new replacement PSU because the old one broke. Now the board broke down.

    Anyone know the best way to get in contact with Ethan or a cheap board that i can buy instead of waiting for the support?

  2. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Dunno if the cheapest, but the CLOSEST to the actual Rapide board is the RUMBA with DRV drivers....

    WHat has to do PSU going off with the board breaking down? Also, why do you say it broke? it DIED?

  3. #3
    3D Printer Legend
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    Jonatan - you can email Ethan hello@rapide-3d.com - I had to send my board back twice, once for repair and once for a replacement, it took ~2 weeks from sending (UK) to receiving back in the UK.

  4. #4
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Thanks!

    Bolson, firstly the PSU broke. The transformator inside had burned out. At the same time the MOSFET for the heated bed burnet out - i realised this when replacing the PSU.

    So this means that i cannot controll the heating of the heated bed. It keeps sending power to the heated bed with no regulation what so ever. When i turn my printer on - the heated bed get hot - really hot. This is i think burned the MOSFET.

  5. #5
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    In my latest hack I added heatsinks to all the DRV and MOSFET chips...

    I'm wondering what got burned first though... the mofset and made the PSU collapse or the PSU collapsed and then the MOSFET went crazy...

  6. #6
    Expert 3D Printer
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    I have posted a few things about how my PSU failed. I also mentioned my recommendations to everyone to give a nice inspection inside yours, because of such a bad quality manufacturing.
    If you open your PSU you can see immediately that the condenser size is very different from the one drawn in the circuit board.
    Also it is not present a heat dissipator where it should!?

    IMG_2276.jpg

    I replaced mine with a 400W version, the electronics are a bit cleaner and the condensers are better (maybe I was lucky with this one).

    I am expecting to receive the 200XL soon, and the first thing I will do is to replace the PSU, if the quality is similar to what I found in the 200.

  7. #7
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I think i've hacked every inch of my printer now and that damn heatbreak barrel is still giving me headaches if a fan decides to fail due to bad wiring or cut cable on the extruder or its way to the motherboard ((

  8. #8
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Thanks for all the replies. Feeling really bummed out that my printer isnt running but havent given up yet!

    Its really only the heated bed that wont cooperate - the printer works fine otherwise.
    I do have alot of ABS that i now cant use since i've come to known that ABS dont print well without a heated bed. This lesson took a lot of headaches

    I have one question to the professionals in this forum however.
    - Would the board be able to power a heated bed using the Extruder-connectors?

    My concern is that it wont be able to because of how the board is already setup - using separate power from the PSU for extruders and heated bed. But maybe im wrong? The Mosfets for the extruders are the same as for the heated bed, i believe it would be my PSU that wouldnt be able to keep up - supplying power to both the extruder and the bed simultaneously.

    Out of three extruder-connectors on the board - im only using one so i would be able to. This would ofcourse mean that i would have to use custom Gcode but thats no issue.

  9. #9
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    id say you should be able to, yes.

    so in the end what has happened? the bed mosfet is burned out only?

  10. #10
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Yes, bed mosfet burned. Cant resolder a new one - to fat soldering iron

 

 

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