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  1. #21
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    RicciEU, I've recently seen a similar issue and after completely pulling the print jet apart found the internal 4mm X 2mm PTFE tube was "swollen" at the end near the print tip. It looks to me that the tubing was damaged by heat at some point and this caused the tube to swell, and the only direction it can swell to is in. After swapping my internal tubing... it's essentially brand new again.

    That tube is 40mm long and I created a guillotine jig to make it easy to cut a new section of tube square and at the right length. Hopefully you have something available to print with. If you pull everything apart and discover the same issue but don't have a way to make a replacement tube, PM me and I'll throw one in the mail for you.

    Carefully remove the print tip using a 13mm wrench. The section threaded into the main body is thin aluminum. With old CubeX print jets, I have broken tips trying to remove so it's definitely very possible.

    I also made a feed assembly centering jig, which I've found to work very well. Both are in the Google share folder below.

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...hH?usp=sharing

    Hopefully both of these help you get the CubePro rocking again!
    Last edited by dougk12; 07-22-2021 at 04:29 PM.

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  3. #22
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Feb 2021
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    It's not an adjustment as such its down to the lateral pressure applied. Thats where the inserted piece of filament works as a spacer. I push mine up snug.

    But that wasn't my problem. I will cover that later in this thread

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Dougk12, Thanks for the heads up. I did notice the swelling of the PTFE tube. I did think that was the problem until . . . read on

    Everybody sorry for the late update. The piece I was trying to print was for a work project so the issue created a lot of stress and compressed deadlines.

    So in the end I couldn't figure it out so I ordered three hot ends and one complete extruder assembly. I also purchased a alloy print plate as one of mine was damaged and unusable.

    A few weeks later the parts arrived. So I first installed a new hot end into a original extruder assembly and attempted a print, attempted, is the key word here . . . it failed 50 min later.

    So I then swapped out the original extruder for the new extruder assembly and attempted a print. Keep in mind I'm trying to use PETE. Again failed after 50ish min.

    So then I swapped machines. My second machine hadn't been used for 5 or so years, it's virtually brand new. So I swapped out the extruder with the new hot end into machine number 2 and using the PETE attempted a print. Again failed.

    So then I grabbed an old roll of 3DS PLA clear and printed a near perfect print until the filament shattered in the Bowden tube. Giving credit it did print for 5 + hours before failing 2 hours from completion.

    So then I grabbed a roll of GEEETECH PLA and completed the 7 hour print perfectly. So from what I saw I think that it is the PETE filament. But I still have to try and print ABS. I would be very interested to know what brands of PETE filament other people have been having success with?

    Below are one of my many failed attempts:

    21.jpg

    22.jpg

  4. #23
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    Nov 2016
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    The heater is not keeping up with the flow rate. It could well be unsolvable depending on the melt profile of the filament. What is PETE anyway? I've gotten this with excess heat as well. I hate recipes ;]

    The only thing I run in my CubePro is 3DS ABS. Really don't want to go messing with the system due to failed prints.

    I did try to run PETG on a couple of parts on a Cubify ABS slicer in Cube3. It is okay for single or double wall objects but not for large slanted planes with infill. It is definitely a little too hot. I got deformation and eventually misaligned layers.

    One of the failure modes in Cube3 is filament in the Teflon tube not melted on the sides where the filament bonds with the tubes, but melted in the center making for a very small orifice. The image of the orange prints is the results; wispy traces. I can usually see this after it cools and I take the hot end apart. Particularly 'glassy' filament tend to be more susceptible.

  5. #24
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jul 2021
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    I am getting a lot of skipping of my step motor but always after at least the first 2 layers have been laid. Any thoughts on what might be causing this? I tried upping my heat by 5 degrees using Cube Editor and it didnt seem to help.

  6. #25
    Super Moderator
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    Nov 2016
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    Skipping of the stepper means not flowing. I have a feeling that different filament materials require significantly different profiles. When you compare the PLA/ABS profiles of Cube3 and the PETG profile of EkoCycle, you will see very different recipes.

  7. #26
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jul 2021
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    Thanks for the responses. Does anyone have a good source for Cube Glue or has anyone compared cube glue to magigoo? I tried Purple glue stick but I am not getting the same results. Perhaps someone has a recipe for making cube glue (or an equivalent)? Thanks again.

  8. #27
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    Nov 2016
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    I stocked up and making it last by diluting it a lot. I have no idea what the formula is. I just know that with LokBuild, it is the perfect adhesion medium.

  9. #28
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Sep 2018
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    Elmer's purple glue sticks work great for me but.... I use Simplify3D and enable the function that tells it to wait until the chamber is up to temp before starting, which can take around ~30 mins for ABS prints.

    You could get also implement a "warmup" by making a fake print file that pauses for 30 minutes or a simple model that takes about 30 minutes to print? Without the ability to decode OEM CubePro files it's going to be a little cumbersome but worth it if you want to avoid purchasing Cube glue (I personally haven't found a good alternative and I've tried quite a few things).

  10. #29
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    There is one of those warmup 'prints' here in the CubePro channel somewhere.

  11. #30
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jul 2021
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    Anyone else experience (and learn how to deal with) constant breakage of the filament after a print is finished and the printer lowers chamber temperature? I inevitably end up with tons of pieces of filament stuck in the tubes between the cartridge and the nozzle and have to thread a wire in there to push the pieces out. Is there a better way? A way to avoid this happening all together?

 

 

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