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  1. #31
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    Yea, fresh filament. Anytime you straighten the filament from the spool it will crack and break from the tension. It is simply outdated filament.

  2. #32
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    +1 to tossing old PLA.

    PLA is made out of corn, is compostable and decays. If that cartridge is nearly full, you'll need to spend 8$ in new retail PLA to make up for the amount being tossed.

    If you just can't part with it, I've improved the life of old PLA *slightly* by putting it in the microwave and cooking it @ 10% power for 6-7 minutes. A day or two later it's super brittle again so this is a very short term solution and the more the spool is used the worse it gets - the filament winding gets tighter and tighter.

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  4. #33
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    Well I have been doing some testing since my last post and I can confirm what TommyDee and Doug12 are saying. The PETG formula does not like the Higher temp of the ABS settings of the CubePro. I have tested 3ds PLA, ABS and Amazon Basics PLA, and GEEETECH PLA, all print without issue.

    I would like to try PETG as I am interested in the hardness and accuracy of the material for mould tool applications. I am hoping that some one can share a brand of PETG that they have had success with. Failing that I will try and find a high temp PETG and give do some test prints.

    definitely do not waste you time with old PLA. I learned this the hard way. Use an old roll of PLA, the print went fine but I left it in the machines over night in winter, so when the temp dropped it shattered in the Bowden tube. I tried for a week to clear it but the filament got jammed in the tube and couldn't budge. I ended up having to replace the tube, major pain the the A! all for the sake of 25euros.

    I also running out of 3DS GLUE. As I mentioned I purchased a alloy print plate which need a good covering of the 3DS glue for it to work so I am thinking of trying a adhesive backed print build surface, PEI, Buildtak of GeckoTet Easy Stick Gold. Has anyone used any of these build surface materials??

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  6. #34
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    The PETG I am using is NovaMaker. It likes 250C on Cube3. Will work at 260 ABS settings in a pinch but not perfect on sloped surfaces.

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  8. #35
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    Thanks for that TommyDee I'll give it a try.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    One other thing that I came across lately is some kind of clinch in the 3DS slicer software:

    25.jpg26.jpg

    So if you can see from the images above I am printing 4 of the same part in a batch. If you notice the same corner post of each part is a mess, the bolt hole is missing and the print is all over the place on that one corner for each part. I was able to use two of the 4 parts the others broke. They each took a couple of hours to post process (sanding) to get them in an acceptable state.

    When I was preparing the print for the two replacement parts I noticed that the slicer software. I would bring the STL file into the slicer program it would be a perfect model but as soon as I hit build it would create the imperfection. Even when I built a single part, even if I changed the orientation of the part.

    30.jpg

    This is a major set back as I don't have the patience or the time to post process each part. So I think I have seen somewhere that Simplify3D is compatible with the CubePro.

    Can anyone share there experience with Simplify3D?

  9. #36
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    3DS slicer is crap. Long live Simplify3D.

  10. #37
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    RicciEU; this is not the only bug in the slicer. For some reason, every 8mm or so it wants to make a 'stiffening mesh' that always shows up on the outside walls. This very same operation will inevitably put the mesh over an space that should be open.

    The other thing to know about the Cubepro slicer is that it tries to fit the part in whatever envelope you define. Basically, the slicer tries to make sure that the print, including tolerances, remains within the envelope. I have not seen this with any other slicer but it does ensure that parts that should fit together, do. For the most part, this works pretty well as I've done a series of small holes and they actually functioned - about 75% of them anyway.

    As Bolsoncerrado makes clear, the CubePro slicer sucks for many reasons. Simplify 3D should be a much easier solution given a few caveats. I know a lot of time has been spent on tuning the CubePro library so it should work pretty well out of the box. I haven't gone that far as I don't have time for recipes but for CubePro to be useful, more than the standard software is a big plus.

    I use the CubePro program to see how my Cube3 slicers sliced things before printing them. With Buddybu's tools, this is a simple process. Artifacts and other deviations can easily be spotted when using the Slicer's viewer.

  11. #38
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    Thanks Guys, I guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy Simplify3D. It's just not economical the continue with the 3DS slicer. Simplify3D is the only option for improvement. My only reservation is that I really don't have time to invest in learning new software so I am hoping that it will be an easy learning process. But I really don't have a choice. I bought a new print plate, nozzles, and an extruder, $790 including shipping add that to the purchase price and I'm in quite deep. I feel that the last step to getting quality prints out of these machines is the slicing software.

    On another note, does anyone know what temp the CubePro's prints PLA?

    I have been reading loads of PETG reviews on Amazon and what the general consensus is that PETG prints best at 225 - 235. On some 3D printers they are using the PLA settings. Here I am printing at 260 so no wonder its not working. So what I am thinking is doing a test print with the PLA settings on the CubePro. My only concern is the feed rate. Oh well we shall see.

  12. #39
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    I'm in the same boat RicciEU. I'd do Simplify3D in a heartbeat if I had the time.

  13. #40
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    Okay, So last week I purchased a copy of the Simplify 3D ($150). At the time I felt that I had no other option. As you can see from my post in this thread the 3DS slicer was not financially viable due to the post processing (sanding mostly) of each part required. As I mentioned I really did not have time to learn an new software package. I was also put of by the requirement of a third party tool to convert the .bfb file into a .cubepro file format. This all seemed very dodgy to me at the time.

    Regardless I took the leap. What I found was the opposite of what I feared. The S3D software was very easy to use. I am not a tech person so for me this is a major relief. I watched the tutorial videos on the S3D website and 4 hours later (I watch some video's more than once) I was printing. A normal person or a less tech paranoid person should be able to cut this down to 1.5 hours.

    So I had now created a .bfb file. I emailed S3D and asked how I can create a .cubepro file from the .bfb file. I received a reply providing links to the "CodeX" tool and another open source tool, "Cube-utils". In the research I had conducted the "CodeX" tool was reported to be quite slow so I decided to go with the "Cube-utils" tool. It is quite possibly the easiest tool I have ever used. One simply downloads the two tool as per the instructions provided on the Git-Hub site. Put the short cut on you desk top and simply drop the .bfb onto the shortcut and the tool with automatically create a .cubepro file in the same folder as the original file. Then simply load the file into the printer either OTA or via usb drive.

    The print quality is 100% better. The wall thickness and detail are sooooooooooo much better. The parts below were created from the same .STL file as the parts earlier in this thread.

    Attachment 4375 Attachment 4376


    Unfortunately this did not solve my PETG issue. I tried printing PETG with the PLA settings in S3D and as you can see below this did not go well:

    Attachment 4377

    I am not sure if its the nozzle temp or the feed rate but very little material was being extruded. I have gone back to S3D and asked if there is a way I can control nozzle temp and / or filament feed rate.

    If you own a CubePro printer and are tired of the poor print quality I would strongly recommend that you try S3D.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Oh one other thing worth mentioning is the print plate. As I briefly mentioned earlier in this thread I replaced my stock standard print plate with a alloy after market print plate. I highly recommend this. Print plates in both of my machines are not flat each print plate has one low corner, a different corner on each print plate. If I level up one machine with one print plate and then switch print plates a different corner is lower that the others. With the Alloy print plate all corners are exactly level.

    The first draw back was the alloy print plate is machined quite smooth so printing glue or hairspray are required, I used 3DS glue. This worked quite well with PLA, I'm not so sure it would work with ABS. The cool part is that you don't need to wash the glue off of the plate, it peels off in one sheet. But I am running out of 3DS glue so I decided to try a print surface. It was cheap £20 (amazon) for 3. Very easy to apply. Works well with ABS and PLA but not PETG. I used hair spray to get the PETG to stick.

    Removing the parts takes patients and care.

    I highly recommend this mod.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Okay, so thanks to advice from Doug12 in another thread I had a successful PETG print. The parts in yellow are PLA and the parts in orange are PETG:

    Attachment 4386 Attachment 4387 Attachment 4388 Attachment 4389

    As I have only ever owned a CubePro I really don't know the level of quality of print I can expect. I would be interested to hear from other people who have or do own other brands and models of 3D printers, what are your thoughts on the print quality of these parts? Do you think I should keep playing with the settings in S3D to achieve a better print finish?

    Cheers

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