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  1. #1
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    Calibrate a new PEI magnetic bed.

    Hi all!
    I was looking to improve the adhesion to the build plate of my Cube 3 and, after reading a lot about different options and seeing what is available here in my Country, I decide to buy a Creality magnetic bed. It has a grainy surface similar to BuildTak and you can remove this layer from the build plate and bend it to release prints easily. The measures of this magnetic bed are 240 x 240 mm and 1.5 mm of thickness.

    I cut it to the size of the Cube build plate and just stick it down on the plate. That was the easy part but then the problems started.

    "Sorry! Auto level was unsuccessful."
    "The print plate is out of range. Please remove it and level manually."

    Ouch! Well, this was really bad... I performed the routine many times because the machine gave me bad indications like "turn 7/4 to the right" and so on.
    I knew that the stock build plate was perfectly leveled so I realized that the Cube green light do not liked the black textured surfaced of the new bed. I cut a piece of white paper and placed it dead flat on the bed, after that the auto leveling was successful.

    The problem that I was not able to solve yet is to set the new Z-gap. I remember that the old one was -3.44 or so, but now I must to add 1.5 mm that is the total thickness of the magnetic bed. I performed the Printer Calibration process but the nozzle is set too close to the surface.
    Should I run the Auto Cal routine first and then the Auto Gap?
    Now I have the Auto Gap set at -2.02 what is logic because -3.44 + 1.5 = -1.94 so it is around there but how I can add the new thickness instead of subtracting it?

    Any help and ideas will be welcome and greatly appreciated!
    Last edited by Leonardo; 06-11-2021 at 11:07 PM.

  2. #2
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    Is the Cube just not seeing the surface? I put a white sheet of paper on glass to level and gap.

  3. #3
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    Hi Tommy, thank you for your reply!

    Yes, I did so. Currently the Z-Gap is set to -2.418 and that may be OK but I am not absolutely sure it it is correct.
    What is your Z-Gap with the glass installed in your printer? The glass is thicker than the PEI magnetic bed I put in may printer so, is it more close to zero than mine?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Well, I was doing my work...
    I realized that changing the Cal1 value and then touching on the check mark (no on the white space next to Cal2) the Cube will save the new Cal1 value, move the bult plate down and that is all. In this way you can adjust very fine the Z-gap to the value you need.
    Increasing (negatively) the value you move the build plate up or, in other words, you reduce the Z-gap. Doing the opposite will increase the Z-gap.

    Edited. Actually I am not sure if I should run the Auto Gap routine after doing this fine adjustment.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Just would like to add a comment regarding the PEI magnetic bed... I love this thing!!

    PEI_Magnetic_bed_1.jpg

    PEI_Magnetic_bed_2.jpg
    Last edited by Leonardo; 06-11-2021 at 05:51 AM.

  4. #4
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    Is that a successful PLA print without the need to use glue? If so, my interest in this product just increased substantially

  5. #5
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    Yes Doug!!
    No glue, no blue tape, nothing... just the bare surface of the magnetic sheet.
    As a plus, when the job is finished, you remove this layer, bend it and the prints are released very easily.

    I printed 18 parts today just sending the work to the printer and removing the prints one after one all successfully.
    I have not test it with ABS yet, but the vendor told me that it will work as well.
    The best 30 dollars I spent lately!

    There are two kind of these magnetic beds. They have two layers. The lower one is a magnetic plastic sheet with adhesive to be fixed to the build plate. The upper one can be a thin metallic sheet with the PEI layer fixed to it or another plastic magnetic sheet with the PEI layer on it. Mine is the second one. Anyway, the metallic one can be bent too.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Just a final note. I discovered (late, unfortunately) that the Cube leveling system cannot see the black surface. I have to put a piece of white paper to run the procedures, but with some problems anyway.
    After that I was looking for withe ones in Internet and saw that there are too. I think that it would have been better for the Cube but I do not know if the grainy surface is bothering too.
    Last edited by Leonardo; 06-11-2021 at 11:21 PM.

  6. #6
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    I suspect it is a texture problem Leonardo. It sees glue as a reason to fail leveling too. Can't you just remove the magnetic plate and manually gap?

  7. #7
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    Tommy, I cannot remove the magnetic plate because now it is glued to the stock build plate.
    What I was thinking that I can do is reversing the PEI layer so the grainy surface will be facing down. But, the reverse surface which is the magnetic one, is dark brown and very shiny. I must to test that.

    What is the procedure you use to manually gap? Is it the one in the Calibration menu?

  8. #8
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    Yes, when the auto-gap is completed or failed, you can enter manual mode. I always use the manual gapping to get a consistent gap. 2 thicknesses of a standard manila folder does it for me.

  9. #9
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    Thank you so much Tommy!
    1:40 AM here... I will do more tests tomorrow and will post the results.
    Have a nice weekend!

  10. #10
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    #thumbsup to always setting z-gap manually. Pro-tip - write down what the gap is so you can adjust slightly until perfect, then record that number so you can easily reset if you accidentally allow auto-calibrate to change it. To keep it simple, I now change my printer names to the current z-gap... but a sticky note works nicely too .

    Wow Tommy Dee, you really do have a loose z-gap!

  11. Thanks Leonardo thanked for this post
 

 

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