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Good news.
Happy it works again
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Hello again,
I keep using this thread because i think my new problem has probably some relation to my previous one.
when i try to remove the filament which i used for printing the filament get stuck while pulling it back by the manual mode in repetier.(Extruder is still on).
It is not possible to move then the filament forward or backwards and on some point the filament breaks...some part still remains inside the tube and i have
to disasemble the whole head for drilling out the broken filament part.I have this done now several times and one time i could get out the filament without braking which looks like this (image below):
IMG00858.jpg
Does anybody know where the source is of this problem?
Do i need to replace the tube with an new one?
thanks for any help
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Originally Posted by
PRIma
Hello again,
I keep using this thread because i think my new problem has probably some relation to my previous one.
when i try to remove the filament which i used for printing the filament get stuck while pulling it back by the manual mode in repetier.(Extruder is still on).
It is not possible to move then the filament forward or backwards and on some point the filament breaks...some part still remains inside the tube and i have
to disasemble the whole head for drilling out the broken filament part.I have this done now several times and one time i could get out the filament without braking which looks like this (image below):
Does anybody know where the source is of this problem?
Do i need to replace the tube with an new one?
thanks for any help
Can I just check that you disengage the knurled wheel by pressing the sprung arm down when you pull out the 'old' filament?
What temperature do you use for removing the 'old' filament?
As for the cause of the problem, you may have some damage in the PTFE lining that runs through the heat-break, this could cause the plastic to stick. When you said you drill out the broken filament, exactly how do you do this?
The picture also appears to show that your temperature may be slightly too hot for pulling out the filament as you have a long tail on the end and also it looks like it was close to breaking just above the part that was in the nozzle, which is something you said does happen.
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Administrator
What temperature do you use to remove the old spool / replace the filament? Do you set the extruder to RETRACT steps before starting to pull the filament?
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thanks for the feedback-by pulling it back i meant retract by the buttons in repetier.My temperature is around 180degree and before i did not had any issues with that step.@BobenhamHotspur for drilling out the remains i disasembled the Head until i have acess to drill trough the tube from both sides. Could any damage on the PTFE tube
lead to such trouble? Need to replace that to check
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Administrator
i tend to use 215 as temp for pla and retract like 65steps and the filament almost fall alone, no need to even use the lever on the extruder to extract it....
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I've always removed my 'old' filament by pulling the filament out by hand not by retracting using the extruder.
Drilling the heat-break could well damage the PTFE tube and this could cause the filament to stick so I would advise checking/replacing it.
You would need 3.0mm OD x 2.0mm ID PTFE tube for the replacement or you could buy new heat-breaks with the PTFE tube included.
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Administrator
Pulling by hand risks you either leave "stringy" or broken filament behind much like he explained....
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Finally got my new sparepart (heat breaks with PTFE tube) and assembled everything back together.Printing now smooth again like a baby`s bottom
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From now, i will more take care about removing the filament (when change to another color)
IMG00862.jpg
sharkz clip just printed (for the link see bolsoncerrado`s thread "3D Print Gallery/smart print of the day"
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@PRIma - Glad to hear you are sorted and up and running again. 

Originally Posted by
bolsoncerrado
Pulling by hand risks you either leave "stringy" or broken filament behind much like he explained....
It's how you do a 'cold' pull to remove crud and I've never had a problem with blocked heat-break/nozzle doing it this way so for the foreseeable future I'll carry on in the same way.