First FastBot BBP 1S 3D Printer Controller Board Unboxing pics

[bolsoncerrado]

I think I've been the lucky first unboxer of the BBP1S 3D Printer controller board recently backed at Kickstarter. Here are the first pics I took:


























First Quick Setup guide:


Re: Step by Step tutorial?
Brettarm 25 Nov 2015, 03:20



I'll go through quickly what I did and you will end up with ether a working printer or a lot of questions.


1.Assemble the case and fan to protect the main board
2.Hook up the micro usb to a PC and open a web browser and enter 192.168.7.2 in the web address
3.You will have to create an Octoprint login
4.Play with the Octoprint interface to get used to where everything is and how it works
5.Update the firmware by downloading the latest version as a .rar from the Fastbot website
6.unpack the .rar using winzip or 7-zip, it will then be a .fbot file
7.Click the update button and select the directory for the file


At this point I happened to have a Replicator 1 that blew a main board to put this board into so most of the printer hardware is ready to go.


8.I hooked up all steppers, heaters, power, fans and thermistors.
9.I added a USB hub to operate webcam and WiFi at the same time
10.Cut a 80mm hole where the 40mm fan is and installed a super quiet fan
11.Added a 5V external power-supply needed when using WiFi and webcam
12. Added connectors for auto bed probe, servo actuator and stepper motor interface.
13. remove all components from HBP and install new thermistor


Hardware all sorted


14. Enter machine parameters
15. Heat up E0, HBP and check temps are ok with IR temperature gun
16. Adjust PID settings
17. Move each axis to determine correct steps and direction.
18. Extrude check feed length is correct.
19. Go through the startup and end Gcode and modify if you need auto bed leveling


Print test


20. Pick a favorite .STL and give it a go
21. Adjst jurk, steps, temp or any other settings if there are distortions in the print


Each one of these steps may contain several attempts to move to the next.
Happy to help with any step.

[Jetguy]

OK, so the first "problem" is the board is not self powered standalone. Not sure why they did that but the logic side either requires USB or the standard 2.1mm round coaxial power jack 5V.
There are 2 through holes on the board labeled ground and 5V. That pair is directly in parallel with the round 5V logic input. Pretty sure they used the standard USB power switch setup to prevent backfeeding up USB.

I made mine standalone using a 1.5A rated Murata/Oki 150115 http://power.murata.com/data/power/oki-78sr.pdf
Main reason is the high 36V max input and the very good ratings along with very reasonable price. $4.30 cents at Digikey. (Hint, the same regulator i like for the genuine Mightyboard fix).
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...6-5-ND/2259781



I just bent the input pin straight (pin1 on the regulator) left pin 2 (ground) and pin3 (5V out) at teh right angle to the board. Just match pin2 to ground on the board and pin3 is the output feeding the 5V.
I went ahead and soldered the input to the backside of the first fuse socket so that if you blow the main fuse- the power is killed to the logic too.

[COLOR=rgb(17, 85, 204)]Here with the fuse into the socket[/COLOR]

[Jetguy]

OK, one more tip to bring up.

Use EXTREME caution with this stock firmware!!!!
There is none of the normal safety options in the code we might expect.
For example- no thermistor connected or failed thermocouple- the heater can STILL be enabled!!!! Good way to burn up your printer.
Homing is not just a tap on the endstop switch. It must be held for around a full second.
I think that ties to a semi related problem- if you are testing using manual commands, they tell you to send an M80.
To stop that session (something they should mention) send M84
If you disconnect Octoprint my motors kicked on trying to home again. BTW, you might do this say if you wanted to edit the profile/machine type.


So yeah, a little buggy if you ask me. I'm not trying to bash it, just give fair warning during testing before somebody crashes the bot.
I just saw some serious issues in use case while testing and hoping to prevent someone from damaging hardware.

I pray this gets better soon.

[Jetguy]

OK, so minor correction/update.
When using the thermocouple, unplugging it mid print (open circuit can and does happen) reading went to 1023.x and turned off the heater MOSFET.
Plugging back in, the temp reads came back- heater turned on since the reported temp was lower than set temp.

If using a thermistor, if you unplug, the reading is "off" for reported temp- however, the MOSFET for that heater is NOT disabled and stays on.

So again, in other firmware- such a bad temp reading state usually and should lockout a heater to prevent a runaway. This is Fastbot firmware has no such safety enabled that I have seen in my testing. Again, not trying to raise a huge stink here- just basic safety awareness before you melt down your J-head.

[bolsoncerrado]

Hey Jetguy, thanks for the feedback and tips! Keep'em coming!!

[Jetguy]

Another note in the firmware. Other than compiling from source, I don't see how to fix this with a simple setting.
https://github.com/fastbot3d/firmware/tree/master/unicorn

The stepper hold settings are in parameter.h

This looks like Z hold is disabled??? But extruder hold is enabled???
What this assumes is that your Z axis has enough friction that after each layer move, the stepper is disabled (no longer locked) which could result in the Z stage moving from gravity alone in some smooth printers.

* Disables axis when it's not being used.
	*/
	#define DISABLE_X_EN false
	#define DISABLE_Y_EN false
	#define DISABLE_Z_EN true
	#define DISABLE_E_EN false

[hpachec1]

I also backed the bbp. I have no idea how I'm suppose to connect this to the printer. It seems like you know what you're doing. Do you mind helping me out? I think I know what I'm suppose to do and that's reconnect the cables. The picture I'm attaching is of my printer.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[Jetguy]

I cannot give advice beyond the manual on how to connect this to any given printer.
First off, what printer is that even a picture of?

This board was made for EXPERTS who already know electronics, already are familiar with building and configuring custom built 3D printer.
Yes, it's likely this board could be adapted to your printer however, the very thing is you currently have an LCD control panel and this board does not yet have that option.

Quite frankly, you'd be better off selling that board to someone else with more experience. This is not nor could it ever be plug and play.

[Jetguy]

Again, you have to know every single component of your printer because you have to enter those specifications into the firmware of the new controller.
You have to know the wiring of your printer and how to connect it.
You have to know the steps per mm of each axis including the extruder
You have to know where your limit switches are located and how they are wired (normally open or normally closed)
You need to the voltage levels of the endstops if they are optical or magnetic because they could fry the new board if the wrong voltage.
You need to know axis lengths
You have to know what temp sensors your current printer uses and how they are wired.
You have to ensure you know the voltages and wiring of all the fans and LEDS in your printer.
You have to know the power supply and any other special wiring.

[hpachec1]

Again, you have to know every single component of your printer because you have to enter those specifications into the firmware of the new controller.
You have to know the wiring of your printer and how to connect it.
You have to know the steps per mm of each axis including the extruder
You have to know where your limit switches are located and how they are wired (normally open or normally closed)
You need to the voltage levels of the endstops if they are optical or magnetic because they could fry the new board if the wrong voltage.
You need to know axis lengths
You have to know what temp sensors your current printer uses and how they are wired.
You have to ensure you know the voltages and wiring of all the fans and LEDS in your printer.
You have to know the power supply and any other special wiring.

Yea after looking at it last night I kinda figured I wasn't going to be able to use it. Like I said I kinda figured out what was going on with the wired and connections. I also noticed the board didn't have an lcd. Which kinda sounds lame, that isn't much of an upgrade.

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