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Thread: Kossel XL

  1. #31
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    Yes, that is too much. I am also using at 0.5V for movement and 0.6V the extruder (I bought a different motor)
    Mine also arrived from factory with extremely high voltages, then come from factory with random settings.

    My ramps board also had a defect on the steps jumpers. Whatever I set with the jumpers it was always running at full steps.
    Fortunately ramps boards are quite cheap, as also are the big brother versions of the A4988 (and much more efficient).
    I bought a bunch of the
    https://www.pololu.com/product/2133 because I burnt a few just by accident touching with the screwdriver were I shouldn't.
    With microsteping activated the motors are much more silent.
    My optimal solution is 1/8 towers and 1/2 extruder (this one needs more power to have strength to extrude).

    Let me know if you need any assistance on this.

    Best,
    Joao

  2. #32
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    That's it then. Reset all Vref's to 0.76v (motion axes, extruder) and it's cured. Motors are running cool (38C), prints are better quality and completing without a problem.
    I'll be able to put speeds back up now.
    Many thanks for your help. I hope this thread helps someone else.

    Now to solve stringing..


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  3. #33
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    Am back in need of help again..!
    All ok at 0.76V but I've had one motion axis stepper drive board fail twice now. Could this be the motor causing the board to fail?
    No issues when Vref was higher so why now?
    Any input is appreciated.


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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyCov View Post
    Am back in need of help again..!
    All ok at 0.76V but I've had one motion axis stepper drive board fail twice now. Could this be the motor causing the board to fail?
    No issues when Vref was higher so why now?
    Any input is appreciated.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I suspect that the driver gets too hot and the chip halts automatically, just like the specs.
    A fan and dissipators would probably help and fix, but, I would definitely recommend to upgrade to the DRV8825 model.
    Since I installed mine I never had any issues again, and the printer works many times 24/7 non stop at high printing speeds (50 to 80mm/s)

    https://www.pololu.com/product/2133
    You can find them on eBay for less than 1 each.

  5. #35
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    It's not just halted unfortunately. Power off overnight and it's still dead when we try next day. Same axis each time.

    But it's the innermost board near the end where supplies are connected. I added a 40mm fan yesterday and will see if it helps.
    Also read on reprap forums that 5v should be on before 12v. Since we've been printing ok, the laptop has been disconnected and just running off internal power printing from SD card. It's possible then it sees 12v fractionally before 5v so we've started powering from the USB cable with 5v before switching 12v on. It was failing on a power cycle, not during a print.

    And I've ordered the DRV8825's as an upgrade anyway. Thanks again.


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  6. #36
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    So far so good but without experimenting I can't be sure whether it's the fan or the power on/off regime that's working.

    I do have the new boards you recommended on standby!


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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by vexmasales View Post
    These delta printers are are a different ballgame, it took me a lot of time to learn how to tune and calibrate it. I didn't have enough time during the weekend to make the first print but it's almost there. The next thing is really getting a sticky bed because the first layer is not adhering to the borosilicate.
    Short answer:Buy LokBuild and all your adherence problems are solved.

    Long answer:
    I've been through all of that experience and for me it was an enjoyable journey. I imagine it can be painful and very time consuming for others. Anyway the learnings about assembling these Kossel printers are really worth it and is applicable to any other printer.

    My Kossel now has a lot of improvements and the only original parts are probably the frame and mechanical parts.
    I replaced main board (because I burnt the original, I still used the Ramps1.4+Arduino), added a 5v transformer to add more power to the Arduino+Ramps, replaced the heated-bed to a silicone 240v (only takes 1 min to go from 25C to 100C), a geared motor for the extruder to get enough extrusion strength for higher speeds, the printing head is now E3D and replaced all the plastic supports on the head with aluminium.

    The bed is not touching directly the frame but is supported by 3 screws that I can adjust. I bought and used a Bltouch for auto-leveling, but I realised that with the new adjustments and with LokBuild it was useless. So I don't use it anymore.

    I just click print and with very high confident it prints perfectly.

    I don't even use the heated bed for PLA. This was for me the biggest problem on all the printers I had.
    My next upgrade will probably be replacing the Bowden extrusion by something very light that sits on the printer head. I do have some issues with some cheap filaments that leave a lot of stringing and the retraction is already at the maximum.

    Good luck with your 1st print !

  8. #38
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I fear you replied to a SPAMbot, @Joao

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    I fear you replied to a SPAMbot, @Joao
    Really?? It seemed very legit message and question
    But the bots are taking over humanity anyway, so who knows...

  10. #40
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    If you notice his "post" is just a generic sentence with common words but the spam now is posted on the signature....

 

 

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