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  1. #1
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    Techical Questions and Troubleshooting Thread

    Hello All,

    I figured since more and more of us have the Morpheus up and running, (or are trying to do so..) as we have technical questions or need help troubleshooting things, lets have a thread just for that. It might make it easier to find answers to questions we all might have, (and to share answers that one of us might know!)

  2. #2
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    LED'S WONT TURN OFF???

    Hello all, I have run in to an issue that if I manually stop a print, (from either testing, calibrating cure times, or if a print failed and i need to restart), the UV LED's never turn off. Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know of a manual way to shut off the LED banks? (Other than restating the whole printer?)
    I cant seem to figure it out..

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngryPanda View Post
    LED'S WONT TURN OFF???

    Hello all, I have run in to an issue that if I manually stop a print, (from either testing, calibrating cure times, or if a print failed and i need to restart), the UV LED's never turn off. Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know of a manual way to shut off the LED banks? (Other than restating the whole printer?)
    I cant seem to figure it out..
    So I contacted TOW and the answer was "There is no way to "turn off the LED manually".. But the trick they gave me was:
    1: start a print in CW like you normally would, (engages the LED's, LCD Slice, and Zlift),
    2: Wait for the next Z-lift movement between slices, (THE LED BANK TURNS OFF),
    3: Press the STOP print button in CW.
    At this point the LED's stay off. *note if you press STOP while it's trying to cure a slice.. the LED's will stay on*.

  4. #4
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Yes they explained the trick while they were here.... Only press STOP while printing when the Z moves, so the UV leds are off while Z moves. Then the UV leds will be off if you cancel a print.

    THere should be a "Terminal Window" in the next software version so we can force Turn LEDs off manually somehow!

    Nice thread idea btw.

    For now, what I think it urges us the most is to find the correct settings for each resolution we want to print with, for each resin!

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  6. #5
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    So I had an interesting thing happen. I went to begin a new print, and dropped the Z-axis down so that I could put in my build plate. I accidentally pushed the -50 when it was to low already, the Z steppers bottomed out (since there is no end stop) and made the ever-so-popular unhappy Stepper vibration noise until I turned it off. Once I reset the machine, and tried to lift the Z-axis, only one side would move up and the other continued to make the loud vibration. So now only one side was moving and the other just stayed, thus my Morpheus was no longer happy or usable in its current condition. I tried several different programs to manually move it up, but to no avail. The only way I was able to get everything re-set was I had to open up the back of the box, pull off the stepper cables, and put the "stuck" stepper cable onto the other set of pins (for the dual Z ports on the RAMPS board.) I reset it that way, and was able to move the "stuck" stepper back up.
    I tested this scenario again, just to see if I would repeat both the problem and my fix, and it happened/worked again.
    Not sure if this was the "right" way to do this, but it seemed to yield the right result. If any of you have had this issue, what did you do to fix it?
    Once I got everything reset back the way it should be, I manually lowered the Z-axis -1 at at time until it hit bottom, then went up +1. Then I added 2 pieces of tape right below it, so I had a visual mark to know when to stop. I plan on ordering some end stops for this so I can avoid the problem in the future.

    Just wanted to post this one since it happened to me twice.. Hope it can help someone.. And if someone has an easier fix, please post here for all!

    ------ADDED NOTE----- MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT BOTH POWER AND USB BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS OR YOU CAN FRY YOUR BOARDS!!!----
    Last edited by AngryPanda; 03-14-2016 at 09:44 PM. Reason: mispel

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  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngryPanda View Post
    LED'S WONT TURN OFF???

    Hello all, I have run in to an issue that if I manually stop a print, (from either testing, calibrating cure times, or if a print failed and i need to restart), the UV LED's never turn off. Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know of a manual way to shut off the LED banks? (Other than restating the whole printer?)
    I cant seem to figure it out..
    With a Gcode terminal, the LEDs can be turned of via command: M107

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  10. #7
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    nanoDLP to the rescue!!!


    Scary stuff, Angrypanda!

    Indeed a couple simple endstops should do the job and just cut the steppers current. Too weird TOW didnt install them in this version, i guess they're reserving them for the commercial version of the machine.

  11. #8
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    Hello All, I am another recent owner of the Morpheus and still trying to get a proper print with it. My issue is that I try to print large figures and so far only few of them are decent. I tried several setups and resins and so far marginal improvements so I will continue after using already 4 litres of resin. Some things I did learn about it.
    1) don't clean your film with isopropyl alcohol, if there's a small defect (and is very probable that you will end having one) the alcohol will split a part the two layers in the film and then no more printing until you get a spare one (I am one of the lucky ones that got more than one)
    2) calibrate your tray and the platform without the resin. Even if the morpheus looks calibrated the tray is not even and there're marginal differences (also produced by the different pressure on the screws) that will make your tray not to be calibrated
    3) clear resin seems to work better than the coloured ones. Definitely there's a better result with clear<white>black resins. The LED intensity may have something to do with it, not sure but that's my observation after testing those from makerjuice+ and funtodo (btw funtodo provided better results)
    4) be sure that your led is centred with the LCD, something again silly but mine wasn't and that made the prints on the back of the morpheus to fail all the time
    5) check if your platform is centred or at least covered by the LCD. Mine wasn't again and the final part of the platform wasn't printing so the effective building plate was smaller.

    What I still didn't solve:
    1) the stickiness of the film, is still a problem for me and I can hear all the time the tray trying to move up with the print (all my morpheus is full of tape to fix the tray to the printer) - something for the morpheus team to improve
    2) not homogeneous printing when I try to repeat the same figure several times across all the platform - This is something I Can't explain nor even find a reason why but apparently I get better prints in the front part of the morpheus and the worse are the far back of the building plate. I did calibrate and re-calibrate and there's no distance between the film and the lcd that is apparently different so not a clue about what to do.

    Anyway, a long post but hope is somehow useful and maybe someone could suggest some solutions for my current problems.

    Thanks a lot

    Jf

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  13. #9
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    Thanks for joining the forum and also for your update jfornies. I think I had the same problem with my first film where I cleaned it with IPA and it seeped through a minor hole between the films. With regards to the stickiness of the film, I think this is a standard issue for ALL resin printers that work this way. Every layer is a fight between the build plate and the film to see which is holding it stronger. If you watch other videos of other printers printing, their vat also jumps up and down.

    Can you post some photos showing us how different the prints are from the front and back of the plate? Might be easier to come up with a solution.

  14. #10
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I also noticed the "suck up" effect with the FTD resin (not with the MJ+ one) of the VAT towards the plate... I guess we would need to add some pressure manually for the first layers until the printing is already a bit raised from the vat, not needed all the time I guess... Some sort of hardware workaround should definetly be applied on this for more viscose resins like the FTD.

    jfornies could you expand on the process on how to properly calibrate the plate and the vat?? I'm really curious now as I didnt do anything on that side of things and TOW neither!


    Also, does any1 know of CLEAR resin sellers? ie. "glass clear" resin, not white/black/colorless....

 

 

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