Thanks Thanks:  12
Likes Likes:  18
Dislikes Dislikes:  1
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 41
  1. #21
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    93
    Post Thanks / Like
    I carried out another test print and have attached the results. I tried to change the orientation of the print as suggested, however ALL of my prints seem to be failing in a similar fashion. If the piece is flat and positioned flat on the build plate, it prints 'ok', however breaks when removed and also have varying thickness. If I print a part with a strong base and add supports, the first few layers that are attached to the supports ALL fail, with the final layers printing correctly. Any ideas?

    Slice thickness - 0.1mm
    Exposure time - 35000ms
    Bottom exposure - 50000ms
    Bottom layer - 5
    Placement2.jpgPlacement1.jpgFailed 2.jpgFailed Layers.jpg

  2. #22
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,067
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow! What a weird behaviour indeed!!!

    My last print wasn't either better!!

    I'm starting to feel I either have a curing issue or the reuse of MJ+ isn't "supported" at all lol

    Check this out





    The infamous Thingiverse rook came in without the inside "DNA" spiral and full of holes

    I ordered myself some more "brand new" MJ+ and some FunToDo "SnowWhite" resin to start off "brand new" prints.

    It seems clear to me we really need to properly calculate the "close enough" to exact amount we'll need for each print rather than filling the vat and reusing over and over...

    Question now is: HOW?!





  3. #23
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    93
    Post Thanks / Like
    The MJ SF resin is meant to be better than G+ and TOW said SF does work, though they have only done a couple of prints with it.

    I am awaiting FTD resin and hope I have better luck with that resin. It also has half the cure time.

  4. Thanks AngryPanda thanked for this post
  5. #24
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    88
    Post Thanks / Like
    @sukhvir, Any news on the FTD resin? I'm curious to see how it turns out.

  6. #25
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    93
    Post Thanks / Like
    @AngryPanda, I have been testing the FTD resin and the results so far have been very positive. The MJ G+ resin compares very poorly to FTD in ALL areas. Please see my main points below:

    - FTD has exposure times of 10-13 seconds. MJ is 35s. You can see how much time you will save, however the maximum slice size with FTD is 0.07mm (rather than 0.1mm)
    - FTD resin smells less vile than MJ
    - Pigmentation with FTD is FAR superior
    - FTD is slightly more flexible, meaning your prints don't break when removing from the build plate
    - Colours can be mixed with the Snowhite resin to make any colour you wish
    - Costs are similar between resins
    - There is less shrinkage with FTD (0.5% vs 3%)

    Overall, results are positive and I'll be comparing prints to see the resins compare and keep you posted.

    IMG_4467.jpg

  7. Thanks AngryPanda thanked for this post
    Likes woale, AngryPanda, Skinny Kid liked this post
  8. #26
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,067
    Post Thanks / Like
    I do have my unopened bottles of FTD resin here too.... Im awaiting to figure out an easy way to calculate the volume needed for each print so I dont waste resin like I did with the test MJ+ and seems nanoDLP does the job perfectly fine.

    woale should update us on the motors moving soon!


    My guess is MJ+ was formulated with Form1 printers in mind, with very low capacity VATs in mind so the uncured resins don't corrupt that easily and this has translated into not so good results in the Morpheus, however I wonder how did TOW managed to print the big Reims cathedral with MJ+.... their print shows very little depigmentation only in the very last layers of it...

  9. #27
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    88
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cable Hub box Fail

    IMG_3614.jpgIMG_3615.jpgIMG_3616.jpgIMG_3627.jpgSooo.. another failed print.. but this One is weird.. It started off great.. failed in the middle.. then finished great?... (thus rendering the print a fail..)

    you can see the "holes" and uncured portions randomly set in the middle areas.. then it decided to finish the print correctly..

  10. Thanks bolsoncerrado thanked for this post
  11. #28
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,067
    Post Thanks / Like
    Uneven room temperatures!?

    WTF!!!

    I wonder what will TOW have to say about this!


    Was it MJ+!?


    Thanks for sharing! Definetly a nice compendium of troubleshooting ways!

  12. #29
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    88
    Post Thanks / Like
    @bosoncerrado, I'm not sure if it would be room temp issues.. I had a heater running in the room to keep it steady, but you never know. I sent the images, STL, and settings to TOW.. they are analyzing form me..
    And yes, it was MJ+ (a brand new 1 liter bottle fresh from MJ)..


    In the mean time, for my first fail earlier, they told me to try using B9Creator software to build supports and re-try.. THAT DIDNT GO WELL.. I'll post that fail next..lol
    Last edited by AngryPanda; 03-24-2016 at 09:45 PM.

  13. #30
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,067
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow, this is getting really dishearting! At least someone is updating the "Successful prints" thread for us lol

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-19-2015, 03:38 PM
  2. My first print failed ... and so it begins : ]
    By daf in forum Rapide Lite 3D Printers
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-25-2014, 01:16 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •