Thanks Thanks:  13
Likes Likes:  18
Dislikes Dislikes:  1
Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 42
  1. #31
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    8
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi All

    Well I have been trying the MJ red and so far only the Rooks came out fully printed but with pigment separation. Now this is my real print the whale shark turns out full of failed bits and holes. Details is quite fine though. Compared with the FDM print at the same day. This particular resin is not so good for big prints me thinks. One thing I did may also contributed to the failure. I made the wall 1 mm so when I shrunk it the walls too thin. There were many supports under the model and these funny enough all cured properly. I am going to try some FTD resin next.

    This one goes in the hall of failed prints......Cheers Failed1.jpg

  2. Thanks bolsoncerrado thanked for this post
    Likes sukhvir liked this post
  3. #32
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,226
    Post Thanks / Like
    Holy crap!

    I start to think too many of us having issues with MJ resin and TOW managed to print the Reims cathedral... how???

  4. #33
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,226
    Post Thanks / Like
    My failed prints dont wanna get uploaded....simply because they wont stick anymore to the plate

    Holy crap!

  5. #34
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    8
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey. Tried with FTD industrial grade black pigmented resin. The shark failed. One piece of another design was okay but distorted. I think my curing time is too long. 50s for first 5 layers and 30s after. Might speed it up. There was the constant peeling "slap" of the membrane in the beginning. I had to bluetax (plasticine like semi-sticky gum) down the tray to stop it lifting.
    I have a theory. The size of the built plate is too large and that flexing of the membrane is un-avoidable. Hence some distortion to one piece. One side looked slightly "stretched". Not by much. Anyway I will have a few more try. I am getting worried that I could never print large pieces. There is zero instruction or guidance except may be discussion in this forum.

    This is not what I expected. This is harder to get right than a DIY top down DLP printer built by my friend. I had to use that to do ones and twos. I bought this printer so I could do tens and large prints. Not happening at the moment. Why TOW is silent on this matter? I really want to achieve prints successfully like in their videos.

  6. #35
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,226
    Post Thanks / Like
    30s is too much for FTD. Use 50s only for the 5 layers then 10 to 15s at max for the rest of the layers. To avoid the "slap" of the membrane (suck up) by the metal plate, (due to the viscosity of the resin vs the MJ one) I use full bottles of 1L put on the black VAT margin so it adds weight to the VAT and it does not move during the first 10-20 layers. Just be sure the bottles wont touch the metal plate. This is indeed a "design failure" of the MarkIV. I'm sure there's a more elegant solution someone else in this forum has thougt of already.


    BTW anyone else thinks we should add washers between the screws and the plate bar???

  7. #36
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    88
    Post Thanks / Like
    I noticed the same pull/slap when I had a very full resin tank. At one point I adjusted the z-lift speed and timing a little and it actually helped. (Made it lift slower, which resulted in a longer print time, but it curtailed the pulling.)

    I suggest to just keep blasting all the info we can over to SJ and team so they know the struggles!

  8. #37
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    88
    Post Thanks / Like
    @bolsoncerrado Which screws and plate bar are you talking about? I'd be happy to try it! Lol.

  9. #38
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    69
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi Guys: I realized that the mesh support of Creation Workshop was not the best (I also did some research and people never use Creation Workshop for that). Most of the time they recommend Meshmixer for the mesh support (http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html) which is a free software. I wonder if you guys have used it and what are the settings that work for you? I hope you love the meshmixer as I do Here are a few tutorials that could help:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFTyTV3wwsE

  10. #39
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    93
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi acnow. I have used Meshmixer and although good, needs a lot of tweaking. One of the things I would stress is to make sure the support is a good distance away from the print (MM only allows 0.5mm max) otherwise it can fuse to your print. I us MM first, then add a few further supports using CW.

  11. #40
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,226
    Post Thanks / Like
    @angrypanda I mean the big black plastic screws we use to fix the Z bar to the moving axis.... my bar is already showing some "damage" and I guess some washers could help relieve the "pressure"....

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-19-2015, 03:38 PM
  2. My first print failed ... and so it begins : ]
    By daf in forum Rapide Lite 3D Printers
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-25-2014, 01:16 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •