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I carried out another test print and have attached the results. I tried to change the orientation of the print as suggested, however ALL of my prints seem to be failing in a similar fashion. If the piece is flat and positioned flat on the build plate, it prints 'ok', however breaks when removed and also have varying thickness. If I print a part with a strong base and add supports, the first few layers that are attached to the supports ALL fail, with the final layers printing correctly. Any ideas?
Slice thickness - 0.1mm
Exposure time - 35000ms
Bottom exposure - 50000ms
Bottom layer - 5
Placement2.jpgPlacement1.jpgFailed 2.jpgFailed Layers.jpg
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Administrator
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The MJ SF resin is meant to be better than G+ and TOW said SF does work, though they have only done a couple of prints with it.
I am awaiting FTD resin and hope I have better luck with that resin. It also has half the cure time.
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@sukhvir, Any news on the FTD resin? I'm curious to see how it turns out.
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@AngryPanda, I have been testing the FTD resin and the results so far have been very positive. The MJ G+ resin compares very poorly to FTD in ALL areas. Please see my main points below:
- FTD has exposure times of 10-13 seconds. MJ is 35s. You can see how much time you will save, however the maximum slice size with FTD is 0.07mm (rather than 0.1mm)
- FTD resin smells less vile than MJ
- Pigmentation with FTD is FAR superior
- FTD is slightly more flexible, meaning your prints don't break when removing from the build plate
- Colours can be mixed with the Snowhite resin to make any colour you wish
- Costs are similar between resins
- There is less shrinkage with FTD (0.5% vs 3%)
Overall, results are positive and I'll be comparing prints to see the resins compare and keep you posted.
IMG_4467.jpg
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I do have my unopened bottles of FTD resin here too.... Im awaiting to figure out an easy way to calculate the volume needed for each print so I dont waste resin like I did with the test MJ+ and seems nanoDLP does the job perfectly fine.
woale should update us on the motors moving soon! 
My guess is MJ+ was formulated with Form1 printers in mind, with very low capacity VATs in mind so the uncured resins don't corrupt that easily and this has translated into not so good results in the Morpheus, however I wonder how did TOW managed to print the big Reims cathedral with MJ+.... their print shows very little depigmentation only in the very last layers of it...
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Cable Hub box Fail
IMG_3614.jpgIMG_3615.jpgIMG_3616.jpgIMG_3627.jpgSooo.. another failed print.. but this One is weird.. It started off great.. failed in the middle.. then finished great?... (thus rendering the print a fail..)
you can see the "holes" and uncured portions randomly set in the middle areas.. then it decided to finish the print correctly..
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Uneven room temperatures!?
WTF!!!
I wonder what will TOW have to say about this!
Was it MJ+!?
Thanks for sharing! Definetly a nice compendium of troubleshooting ways!
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@bosoncerrado, I'm not sure if it would be room temp issues.. I had a heater running in the room to keep it steady, but you never know. I sent the images, STL, and settings to TOW.. they are analyzing form me..
And yes, it was MJ+ (a brand new 1 liter bottle fresh from MJ)..
In the mean time, for my first fail earlier, they told me to try using B9Creator software to build supports and re-try.. THAT DIDNT GO WELL.. I'll post that fail next..lol
Last edited by AngryPanda; 03-24-2016 at 09:45 PM.
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Administrator
Wow, this is getting really dishearting! At least someone is updating the "Successful prints" thread for us lol