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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngryPanda View Post
    Something else I have resorted to when printing:
    Anytime I make a config change (or am printing something that will take many hours), I will then adjust the Z-lift height to 40mm (which is the depth of the Resin vat) and reslice the print so that I can observe the print at an earlier stage (to check for failures or problems).
    This makes it to where I dont get HOURS into a print (depending in size/resolution) only to find it failed.
    The subsequent effect of course is it drags the print time out longer, but to me is worth the trade-off of wasted time/major frustration of losing a print after that much investment already.
    I'm a patient guy so I don't mind the extra time put in if it helps yield more successful prints than failures. 
    If I can catch a fail early on, I can get it re-started sooner!

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Your posts here have been very helpful @angrypanda! Thanks for that!! I have one question for you. For this resin do you do the same procedure of using a uv pen light to harden your first layer as @sukhivir suggested in "Morpheus Modifications"?

  2. #42
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    If my opinion matters, with brand new film and brand new FTD resin, I have not needed to use the UV laser to harden the first layer (with the bezel removal hack done of course).

  3. #43
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    Hi @acnow. Sorry for the delayed response, but I have attached a screenshot of my Morpheus configuration (for FTD snow white resin). For meshmixer, I found the following screenshot helpful, but to be honest, use the DLP setting and make some minor tweaks. If you are just printing the vat holders, you shouldn't really need to use meshmixer. I'm a bit concerned your prints aren't sticking - your film should pretty much be sitting on the screen. I have been using the laser method less recently as prints seem to be sticking ok with just the bezel mod.

    MeshMixerSettings.jpgScreenshot 2016-07-26 00.09.18.jpg

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  5. #44
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Did the above print print nice @sukhvir? I'm still new on the supports area with more fails than successes....

  6. #45
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    @bolsoncerrado that isn't one of my prints, but is a screenshot I found which gave me a better idea of supports to use. If the model in the picture is hollow, it should print fine, otherwise the heavy weight will break the supports. Also, I noticed that tip diameter should be at least 0.6mm to avoid tip breakage and that a large base diameter is good to prevent the supports lifting from the base. I found a good tutorial video which I have in my dropbox account. DM me if you need a link to it.

  7. #46
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Yeah that should be cool @sukhvir thanks!

  8. #47
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    Hi Sukvir, I'm Karthik from India. On which resin we make 25micron layer thickness ??

  9. #48
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    Hi Karthik. The resin I have been using is FTD (FunToDo). I'm not sure if they have distributors in India though. You will also possibly get 25 microns from the OWL resin, which they will release soon.

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  11. #49
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    FTD delivers 25micron??

  12. #50
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    Not tried it myself but don't see why it shouldn't do 25 micron layer height. It ways on their website that the resin can achieve 0.02mm layer height

 

 

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