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  1. #31
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    Hi golks! Angry Panda checking in.. I've been extrememly busy with life but following the forum loosely. I've had some successes Ill share this weekend!

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  2. #32
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    GoodEyes AngryPanda!

    Glad to see you back

    Please do share! Both prints and techniques

  3. #33
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    Overdue Update! (Ramblings and Musings of an Angry Panda)

    Hello All,


    Long time, No Post!! HAHAHAHA! (I know this thread is for Successful prints, and this post goes all over the place.. so feel free to move it where you want it to go..)


    I’m glad to see all of you continuing on with making the Morpheus world go round. As I said before, I have been extremely busy with life, but indeed have been following the forum to keep an eye on progress.


    I have had quite a few of my own successes (and failures of course..)


    Things to share with you all:


    1: I have taken @Sukvir’s screen and vat holder modifications to heart, and removed the screen front bezel from my own, as well as print out the modified vat holder you shared with us. THESE HAVE WORKED WONDERS SO, THANK YOU!!!
    Ironically, I printed out the vat-holders on both the Morpheus and FDM printer as well…(home brew REPRAP..).. The quality difference is amazing..lol..
    2: I have found ANOTHER resin (Didn’t really “find” it, but looked locally –for me- based on another post y’all made).. From a company called Full Spectrum Laser. They are based out of Las Vegas, NV (6 hours away from me) and they market their own 3d Printers, Laser cutters, and Resins.. .


    3: I have been playing with a number of finishing techniques for things and have found some interesting results.


    So, I’ll just jump around and share stuff at random.
    These are my Vat holders that I printed. (Both PLA and Resin versions..) I didn’t bother setting the FDM resolution very high as I planned on re-printing them out with resin once I got the printer going again. Turns out I used such a low and crappy resolution, that it would take too much to try and “fix”… so I just went for reprinting on the Morpheus. Clearly you can see much better results.., but even then I had a few issues.. (minor enough to ignore.. but found a new (to me) “fix and finish” technique to use..)
    - Here you can see part of an uncured section.., so I literally just dipped the piece with the uncured section in the vat (with no precision at all..lol) and then got out my UV flashlight and just hand cured the piece on the spot..(took all but 10-15 seconds..). It was a messy job but enough to prove it could be done..(which lead me to experiments on finishing..-more on THAT in a different post.-)
    So after I cleaned up the reprints as best as I could, removed the door stops.., and used the existing screws (per @Sukvir’s directions.. YOU ROCK!!!) and put the Vat-Holder in place.. WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!!


    In all of my failures.. I have completely ditched using MakerJuice G+ as it gave beyond inconsistent and very poor results with the Morpheus... even with the help of all the modifications and suggestions from TOW.. (They had the very SAME results as I did and resorted to using a different Resin..)
    (Unfortunately I now have an entire CASE of Green MakerJuice G+ that I cannot use.. I’ll have to experiment more with that stuff later…)
    Which leads me to the resin that I AM using..
    I know some of you have been using FunToDo resin.. but being in the US, I have had problems attempting to buy from the local US distributor. (Still working with them to buy it, I just don’t have it yet.) That’s when I ran across your post (not sure who originally posted it because I can’t find it in the fray.. but KUDOS AND CREDIT TO YOU,) which led me to FSL3D (Full Spectrum Laser). I looked them up to research the company and product. I discovered they are based out of Las Vegas.. And I just so happened to be going that way the following week, so I STOPPED BY!
    Found them to be an amazingly forward thinking company and very open to talk with me. They shared all of their prints on display-
    20160503_143315.jpg
    -display of different types of resin prints
    20160503_143318.jpg
    -a few "finished" 3d prints assembled and painted..
    20160503_143325.jpg
    20160503_143356.jpg
    20160503_143419.jpg
    (bad pic, but shows the "clear" resins too)
    20160503_143453.jpg
    One of FSL3D's printers (Pegasus Touch.. I think..)
    20160503_143521.jpg


    And I spoke with them about their laser cutters, 3d printers, and resins. The have a wide gamut of products.. So I mainly focused on the resins.. they have a myriad of colors.. (blue, green, red, clear.. etc..) they have Flexi, semi-Stiff, hard, and Cast-ables..


    I have purchased their regular (semi stiff) resins (black, white, and clear) as well as some of their “cast-ables”..
    The cast-able resin was of interest to me for nerdy reasons and I want to test it out for some model pieces I want to make.. (I have not tried it yet, as I am just working with the regular resin to put it through it’s paces…)




    Although the resin doesn’t “speed cure” with the Morpheus quite like FTD supposedly does... it’s pretty consistent in its performance and EASILY removes from the build plate and cleans up.
    20160604_163357.jpg


    Per the cure test I ran, I found anywhere from 30-35 seconds works best. (You can see the results from the testing.. 10-25 just doesn’t quite do it.. and were weak/curled the less time it was given.) I measured the thickness with my digital calipers so you can see how well each layer cured. I will have to experiment more with that later so see if after setting a good foundation layer will allow for faster cure times of layers to hold together..
    This test was done with the black resin only but I presume the results will be the same with each color. (BIG presumption there, but as long as the only difference is color pigment in the formula, I feel safe with that one..)
    20160604_163447.jpg
    Speaking of color... one of the great things I noticed with the FSL3d Resin was that no matter how long the print took, or how long I left the resin to sit..(in bottle or in vat) the color never separated.. (I always stirred or shook if it sat longer than a week, prior to printing again just for good measure.. but didn’t really need to.. it’s good stuff..)


    The more I play around, the more I’ll post. Hopefully I’ll eventually get to purchase the FTD resins and play.. I like the idea of shorter cure times.. but I’m a patient guy..lol


    I have new on finishing techniques... but, I’ll put that in the other thread.. 


    Here are pictures of my successful (and not so successful) prints..


    These parts are for the Stormtrooper Blaster found on line. –insert link here—(this is to go with my son’s newly acquired costume..)
    Success!
    20160530_102531.jpg
    20160531_081033.jpg
    20160531_081519.jpg
    20160528_223049.jpg
    20160605_214617.jpg
    Slicing settings were as follows:
    .150 layer res
    35000ms cure/layer
    50000ms bottom layer
    5 bottom layers
    20mm z lift
    100mm/s retract

    I know these are not super high res prints, but I didnt need them to be since the blaster will require assembly and finishing, so it didn't matter.


    And now for my Fails!!
    Here are some random fun things:

    Forgot to tighten the ball mounts after locking down the Z's
    (notice once we got past "even" level printing of items on the build plate.. the taller items forced the whole build plate to tilt.. (this one actually made me laugh @ 2am when I went to check on it..)
    20160604_113344.jpg
    Forgetting to clean the vat occasionally
    20160531_085607.jpg


    (notice once side of the print didn't fully cure properly due to cured resin "sticking" to the vat and covering part of the print.)
    20160531_081503.jpg

    Didn't adjust the default support settings (one of the biggest problems I have found with CWS software is the default support settings... Tweaking these has helped me tremendously,) and lost the entire print after the base built.. nothing else came out..
    20160529_190211.jpg
    These are the settings I now use for supports.. (and I add them all in manually.. the auto gen from CWS always seems to kill my prints..)
    20160605_161523.jpg (sorry for the rotated pic..)



    It probably seems backwards to start with success pix and end with failures, but it keeps me humble and striving to do better! LOL

    Hope this helps someone.. (or at least provides some mild entertainment...)
    I'll end this post by saying "Thank You!!"

    Thank you to @Sukvir, @bolsoncerrado, @woale, @acnow, and everyone else who keep experimenting, trying, pushing, & posting!!


    Cheers!

    AP

    (p.s. Sorry for all of the "rotated" pix.. I'll remember that sooner or later..)
    Last edited by AngryPanda; 06-08-2016 at 05:59 PM. Reason: Eye Kant Tipe oor spel.. :)

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  5. #34
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    Wow. That's a long and very informative post @angrypanda and there are things we can all learn from it. Congratulations and well done on your successful prints. Looks like we are starting to break ground here. I have a funny feeling more people will be posting successful prints @bolsoncerrado

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  7. #35
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    thanks for the long post, @AngryPanda I was starting to feel. only @sukhvir was ruling this machine lol

    so did I miss the vat pics you printed or you removed them? I'm very interested in getting it hacked as well, and I do have the feeling we will be able. to use Mj resin on smaller vats rather than the massive default. morpheus one.

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  9. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    thanks for the long post, @AngryPanda I was starting to feel. only @sukhvir was ruling this machine lol

    so did I miss the vat pics you printed or you removed them? I'm very interested in getting it hacked as well, and I do have the feeling we will be able. to use Mj resin on smaller vats rather than the massive default. morpheus one.
    It WAS a long post.. *sorry* lol

    Assuming you mean me, I haven't put together the new vat yet, its still WIP..
    Im "hoping" a smaller vat might better utilize MJ+.. I'd hate for it to go to waste..

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  10. #37
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    Something else I have resorted to when printing:
    Anytime I make a config change (or am printing something that will take many hours), I will then adjust the Z-lift height to 40mm (which is the depth of the Resin vat) and reslice the print so that I can observe the print at an earlier stage (to check for failures or problems).
    This makes it to where I dont get HOURS into a print (depending in size/resolution) only to find it failed.
    The subsequent effect of course is it drags the print time out longer, but to me is worth the trade-off of wasted time/major frustration of losing a print after that much investment already.
    I'm a patient guy so I don't mind the extra time put in if it helps yield more successful prints than failures. 😉
    If I can catch a fail early on, I can get it re-started sooner!

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  11. #38
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Hmmmm not a bad trick! I indeed miss transparent metal VAT! LOL

  12. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by sukhvir View Post
    I printed it at 70 microns. That is the maximum recommended by FTD resins for this kind of printer. 5 layers at 50s exposure, then 13s exposure for the rest of the layers. The biggest issue is the supports and to be honest, through all the research I have done, the software is pretty poor at generating supports that are useful. Meshmixer comes close, but it is better to add them manually. My support tip diameter is 0.6mm, however will try and reduce this in future prints. I added a perforated edge in my CAD package to try and retain as straight an edge as possible, then added further supports manually using meshmixer and CW.


    I will post all my findings and tips shortly once I have completed my tests (having wasted tons of good resin)
    hi @sukhvir.. I wonder if you can upload your screenshot for your CW configuration and also for the Meshmixer..? It will be extremely helpful -just getting frustrated on this end... I am trying to print the Vat Holders and I am just having problems with the FuntoDo resin. It is not sticking to the plate.. Thanks!!

  13. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngryPanda View Post
    It WAS a long post.. *sorry* lol



    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    @angrypanda.. they are distributors of funtodo resin here in the USA.. I purchased SnowWhite FTD resin and it was about 73 dollars with shipping per bottle
    http://studioqubed.com/

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