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  1. #11
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    If it's an open firmware you would actually need to just recode it, but of course TOW should be VERY cooperative on this hehe.... Given it's only to add a new feature, maybe they can provide an encoded .hex file for us to just update our firmwares....

  2. #12
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    Regarding the PDMS vat @woale and @bolsoncerrado, there was a deliberate choice made my TOW to not use this. The PDMS vat has a layer of silicon that allows UV light to pass through. Instead of the print sticking to a film, it sticks to the silicon layer and I believe it is easier to peel from the silicon layer. The downside of this is the expense! The silicon layer is not cheap and after using around 2 litres of resin, you need to replace the silicon layer (this is how the Formlabs printers work). The silicon becomes cloudy where it has printed, whereas the film we are using does not, therefore gives you a much greater lifespan.

    Regarding the CLIP technology, this is a slightly different process and is custom to the carbon printers. It involves a 'dead zone' being created where the vat has an oxygen permeable membrane that stops the print sticking to the bottom of the vat. The print moves up very slowly after each exposure so that resin can continuously flow under the print to be cured. I also think that the resins have been specially formulated by Carbon for use only in their printers. http://carbon3d.com/clip-process

    At $40,000+ each year and a build volume of only 144x81x330, it is beyond our reach and use. https://s3.amazonaws.com/flabs-carbo...pril2016_A.pdf

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sukhvir View Post
    At $40,000+ each year and a build volume of only 144x81x330, it is beyond our reach and use. https://s3.amazonaws.com/flabs-carbo...pril2016_A.pdf
    Very true

  4. #14
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    Endstop links added to post #6.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sukhvir View Post
    You are ......

    Let me know if you have any further questions.
    Thanks for your information @sukhvir.. It is awesome! I can't wait to implement those things. I have one more question: do you have a link to the tape that you used to cover the lcd and also a link for the resin? Thanks a lot man!
    Last edited by acnow; 04-09-2016 at 02:57 AM.

  6. #16
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    @acnow you are welcome. With regards to the tape, I just re-purposed the tape I removed from the LCD bezel. Although it is robust enough, I may add more later. I tried duct tape but found it was too thick. I suppose any thin tape will do.

    I dont O to know which country you are in, but in the UK, I use Peedie Models for the resin. Great price and service. If you are outside the UK, you can look at the FunToDo resin website for other distributors. http://www.peediemodels.com/products.php?cat=5

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sukhvir View Post
    @
    I dont O to know which country you are in, but in the UK, I use Peedie Models for the resin.
    Sukhvir.. I am really looking forward to your kickstarter campaign! It seems fun man! Keep us posted! I live here in Miami (FL) and the sellers for snowwhite resin (fun-to-do-resins) is this company: http://turley.myshopify.com/ (studioqubed.com). I wonder what type of glue did you use to join your 4 rubber strips? Did you also add any glue between rubber and metal frame?

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  9. #18
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    @acnow.. Appreciate the support for the Kickstarter campaign. It will go live later this month so will keep you posted and would appreciate if you could get the word out for us

    with regards to using glue, I haven't glued any of the parts down. The 4 strips were just cut so they meet each other at the corners and don't need to be precise to be honest. They lift the film slightly, then the added force from the upper gasket adds further tension. Black natural rubber is fine at the moment but if I can get silicone at a reasonable price, I might change it later.

    The FTD snowwhite resin is great to work with and the added flexibility means it doesn't break like the MJ resin. I've got a bottle of black FTD and also ordered a clear FTD resin to test them out.

    Maine thing I am struggling with at the moment is the pigment fr the resin. I added red and blue to make a purple pigment and although the colour is just as I need, I am struggling to get it to stick to the build plate. The White resin sticks great though and I really recommend the Uv laser pen. It can stick prints to the platform, but can also be used to stick smaller parts together.

  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by sukhvir View Post
    @acnow.. Appreciate the support for the Kickstarter campaign. It will go live later this month so will keep you posted and would appreciate if you could get the word out for us
    ( I think you will appreciate this link. It has giving me useful tips about spreading the word : http://fourhourworkweek.com/2012/12/...s-e-mails-etc/ -we are also preparing a few campaigns on kickstarter (I'll keep you posted)
    I purchased a bottle of 3dm -abs so I will let you know how it prints once I implement your changes (but so far what I have got it is really strong! But I will show pictures soon) http://www.kudo3d.com/shop/abs/ ).. Do you have a link of the uv pen you use ?

  11. #20
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    Thanks for the link... it is one I have seen before but have you ran a KS campaign, or are you about to run one? DM me and we can chat further about this.

    Have you been having problems with your Morpheus, or have you been getting good prints without any mods? I would love to see the prints you have made with your 3DM resin. Regarding the laser pen, I bought mine on eBay. Just search for a 405nm 5mW UV laser pen. This is the one I bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3115312855...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

 

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