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  1. #121
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    The black soot is the sacrificial dust coming from the driver gear. It gathers near the magnetic field of the motor.

    The stock tubing also has trouble with this flattening, but for a different reason.
    The stock tubing has the nylon over-mold... this over-mold is the issue as 1/2 the time it is "overheated" when it is added to the stock Teflon tubing.
    This causes deformation and creates the problem you are experiencing. There is no hope for those cartridges.

    Again, the selection of tubing is very limited. Maybe the blue stuff Bo is now selling is better. I offered to review for him but haven't heard back.

    I also get complete junk from China. Some feels like it was put through a rice noodle maker! Literally!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Darn... we don't have a poll feature in this forum
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-12-2018 at 03:07 AM.

  2. #122
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I may have overwatched the review request, pm me your details and I'll send you some samples...

  3. #123
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    It was just a musing. I do wonder what people really want to see from their print in the first layer. Why not let them vote anonymously?

    Along with that musing... are we not here to break the rules of the manual and exceed the mediocre performance of the machine due to manufacturing and design limitations?

    Should be a simple thing to discuss and share with everyone but it is seemingly moot. I just send files to my printer... almost boring. Can't wait to run out of 1kg of cyan.
    Got some pig-pink coming up... 1kg also!
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-12-2018 at 09:21 AM.

  4. #124
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post

    Darn... we don't have a poll feature in this forum

    We do, but only upon creation of a new THREAD.

  5. #125
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    Oh! Thanks.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    @everyone except MegaloDon and G70

    Know this; I do run my Cube 3's at the level of the top image here.
    And it still sticks more than I like to LokBuild with most of my filament choices.
    It also helps keep plastic from building up around the nozzle.
    If you gap the nozzle at 0.25 (very loose on the gap gauge label), you will see what is shown in the top images while printing.

    proper_gap.PNG

    When the .cube3 file is sent to the printer, the file adds 0.25mm gap for PLA and 0.22mm gap for ABS to the preset gap the system uses (now zero).
    So when a gap gauge is at 0.2mm (slight interference on the label in this case) and you add 0.25mm, you get an effective gap of 0.45mm for the 1st layer.
    That is about the diameter of the hole in the nozzle, meaning it will squish a little because the plastic has to turn the corner.
    The 0.45mm dimension is also characteristic as 0.9mm is about the narrowest wall you can define for a out-n-back trace. *

    Also please remember that the final trace width has a lot to do with what the CNC industry is all about... feed and speed.
    This just means that if you slow the machine down while feeding filament at a constant rate, you get a wider trace.
    And likewise, when you slow the speed down and increase your filament feed, you again get a wider trace.
    None of this optimizing should be managed with the 1st layer gap, or even the first 2 layers.

    If Iwant better fused prints, I will increase the filament feed speed.


    Proper_gap_2.PNG

    This too is telling in that there is a HUGE acceptance gap for the 1st layer trace.
    The image is a lot better than some pencil sketch of a few fading lines, don't you think?
    Anyway, I find that even if you start off with a few air gaps between traces on the 1st layer, subsequent layers tend to flatten them out a bit.
    The real challenge is to have a 1st, 2nd, and subsequent layers all have the same or proper dimension.
    If you can reduce post-processing time on your prints, you've either saved yourself time or made more money.
    ...And probably maintain a client or two.


    gripper.PNG

    And a word on the bite of the filament in the driver.
    If you have a filament that seems to click more than you think it should, or your filament driver motor is straining more than normal, have a look here.
    I've modified a filament driver before to account for harder filaments. It just takes some very small, sharp notches in the center of the driver "gear" teeth.

    I love the fact that 3D Systems has a long history with these printers and they are not giving up on their development effort along well established thoughts.
    Scouring their old manuals reveals such excellent information that has dwindled down to a hint at what you might be looking at in current manuals.

    What ever happened to quality manuals anyway?
    Is mediocrity really the way of the world now?

    And to be sure, I am not posting this specifically for the Cube 3. These are universal observations that people have been gathering coming up on 2 decades now.
    We DIY people just seem to want to reinvent the wheel over and over.
    A little research goes a long way to either confirm or deny your convictions.

    The challenge for each of us comes when you know how to release your wrong convictions and embrace those that have been demonstrated to work.
    This silly little printer has had me backtrack a lot of convictions... and I do diligence to correct any error or misleading information as it is available.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-13-2018 at 09:33 PM.

  6. #126
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    Yesterday I went through my 1st modified nozzle failure. It started simple enough.
    The gripper in the PC4-M5 fitting failed from the small torque stroke when the carriage moves along X.
    A printing went on while the filament wasn't pushing though the extruder.
    It just kept spewing filament but not through the nozzle, maybe a 1/2 meter.

    The failure was heat related. I was running PLA and it just sat in the nozzle with full heat.
    The output was definitely diminished when I 1st put it back together.
    And it clicked relentlessly on large flat prints.

    I took the nozzle apart and did a thorough cleaning including the wire-purge of the aperture.
    Replaced the Teflon tube inside and cleaned the walls on the inside of the stainless steel tube.

    Put it all back together. Good as new!

  7. #127
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    So which was the exact reason for failure?

  8. #128
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    Gripper failure in the stock PC4-M5 fitting on the hot end.
    The gripper broke into about 4-5 pieces.

  9. #129
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Whats the gripper?

  10. #130
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    The little chrome looking thing just below the cap of the fitting.
    Little fingers that rasp at the tubing that put the fuzzy groove on your tubing over time.
    When the gripper finally embeds itself in the tubing, it will not "fold" out of the way when you depress the cap.
    So when you do force out the tube, the gripper just self-destructs.
    In this particular instance, it appears it self destructed while printing.
    This is worrisome in that this action is normal.

    I've replaces a lot of fittings in the past year or so for this reason. I wish I hadn't tossed them.

    gripper.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I need to come up with a groove cutter

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Ever do this to your fresh print?

    ooops.PNG

    Hint: It's not round anymore.

    I deformed the part when I tried to remove it from the build plate while still quite warm.
    This is the second time. It takes a while for things to sink in two's enough!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Last night I had my first offset issue.

    Was printing a part and had a cooling tower next to it.
    Once the main print finished at 70 microns, the tower print shifted by about 5mm immediately.

    I'll take apart the print file to see if it was there or if failed in the printer.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Sure enough, the offset issue is in the file:
    There is no valid Y value greater than Y78 (3"+1.75mm offset).

    error_in_file.PNG

    There are several dozen calls for this location.
    They are the start of a trace.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    What is it about ABS!

    a) 3D Solutech reignites my interest in ABS printing by providing a 60% (11 out of 12 so far) quality ABS filament in a Fun Pack. Darker colors were too brittle. Gold sucked!

    b) I do the due diligence of contacting the manufacturer to find out if the Fun Pack ABS and 1kg spools were the same material. A very delayed reply provided the affirmative.

    c) With great confidence, I order the Natural Clear ABS from 3D Solutech directly. Amazon stock was sold out.

    d) The order seemed greatly delayed. No shipping confirmation, no expected ship date although policy says you are provided with this on the emailed invoice. Two shipping date requests went unanswered.

    e) Finally received the filament, delivered by Amazon no less. If I read the lot code right, it was made days before shipping it to me.

    f) A project delayed testing but I went after it a couple of days ago. How badly can a company mess up ABS plastic? Well... I'll tell you - VERY BAD!
    1) It burned in the nozzle; what did print made for a crackly print.
    2) It didn't smell like ABS... at least not as strong as it should have (sample Fun Pack was quiet distinctive)
    3) I tried "drying" some in the oven. The coils melted into each other at temps where inland ABS survived fine. It came apart fine, just crinkled.
    4) Tested the half-baked filament and sure enough, had to clean out a small piece of charcoal from the tip again. Put the Inland Yellow back in after cleaning, no issues.
    5) Posted the harrowing results with customer service from their web site. Something is seriously wrong with the stuff!

    And to top all that off, I find that 3D Solutech may be using the Made in USA fraudulently or deceptively - here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwjwEP9X8_E&t=786s
    I only believe that since their customer service is not up to snuff. Now I see why they hide behind Amazon... also based in Washington State. Hmmm...

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ...and of course to give credit where credit is due...

    I got an email from 3D Solutech today requesting a little more information about the problem I was having with the Natural ABS filament.
    Within minutes after my reply, I got another reply requesting my address.
    Bottom line, they are sending me a spool of white PLA in exchange which was my requested replacement.

    The response time from 3D Solutech with a quality issue was better than I expected.
    I am quite satisfied on how this was handled.

    Now I am baking my remaining Inland yellow ABS for 3 hours in the oven. It improved some... much less plosives while printing.
    No deformation in the oven what-so-ever (keep it under 180*F).
    Got it to print a nozzle housing! Maybe I can finally do some ABS printing with the printed nozzle.

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