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  1. #11
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    Isn't a Brim t same as sidewalk?

    I have a couple of decent cad packages. I create most everything I print there. I am learning to design with the printer in mind

    What is Simplify3D?

  2. #12
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    Sometimes you can make useful things...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Isn't a Brim t same as sidewalk?

    I have a couple of decent cad packages. I create most everything I print there. I am learning to design with the printer in mind

    What is Simplify3D?
    SIdewalks are RAFTS, extra "surface" you can count with when printing things with minimal base (like an amphora for example). 99% of the printing community use the word RAFT, not "sidewalk".

    Brims are used to "Purge" the first layers before the actual print occurs.

    In short, brims do not cover the base of the print, just the surroundings, while RAFT not only covers the base but also (often) raises the piece you're printing.





    Simplify3D is probably the BEST slicer software out there. Pricey but worth every cent.

    I printed a part for a cryocan this weekend and the result is STUNNING, as usual! You slide the finger in the main post hole and you can barely notice any layering/banding effect.... smooth as baby's butt lol

  4. #14
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    ABS or PLA? Curious how those hold up to cold.


    70 or 200 microns?

    - - - Updated - - -

    The lack of the purge layers is something I definitely took notice of. Then again, the wiper should do the same thing. However, it does tend to fail if you don't mind it.

  5. #15
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I dont think ill ever use 70 micron again at least with stock board.

    I always use 200 micron and PLA. I dont think ABS will hold fine where I am currently, around 13ÂșC on mornings where prints start.

    OR

    we could try installing one of those heated beds into the cube hehe.


    Yeah rather than purging we use brims on the other printers to ensure the bed is leveled, the adhesion will be fine, the flow is ok, etc. Take it as a pre-warmup of the filament. if anything is wrong with it you still have time to fix it realtime either cancelling the print or adjusting the bed.

  6. #16
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    That is the one thing I don't like... the lack of manual resume.

  7. #17
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    Anyone else notice better fill on different areas of the build plate?
    Near-left prints are much more open between bands. On the far-right, the bands area nearly fused.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 12-31-2016 at 10:44 PM.

  8. #18
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Didnt have to examine that yet, hmmmm may be runnning a 15cm sq low height "platform" would tell us something?

    What ive noticed is a HUGE difference of print quality between printing an item horizontal or vertical (x or y speaking, NOT z). Check this out, both prints at 200micron but one seems HIGH resolution, while they're the same file just positioned different (please note both items are really tiny, pics are with macro on):








    Also note the first pic, seems print head leaves a mark on them before finishing the print.... Definetly shitful gcode generator in these printers!

  9. #19
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    This one turned out nice...

    20170129_133737.jpg

    Followed by an earliest generation dark gray that didn't even go past the first layer.. click... click... .... click...
    Broken filament but I had to crack the case to reload it back into the feeder.

    All in a day That Budda Yoda came as is out of Thingiverse pre-supported. Very nice 4" tall piece. ~4 hours.

  10. #20
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Wow! Looks amazing! Perhaps you can finetune those big supports a bit? How did the piece ended once cleaned?

 

 

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