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  1. #131
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    It sure sounds like they sent something other than ABS. Likely PLA mis-labeled.

    Is there a Home Plastic Chemical Analysis Kit on the market yet??

  2. #132
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    Your nose It smelled a little like ABS but yes, it seems they forgot to clean the augur between an ABS and PLA run.

    I am sure someone makes a reliable quality ABS.
    I found their Fun Pack quite revealing about consistency, particularly with how dark the color is.
    One print was White with a continued print with black. A fairly heavy body and sizable measuring cup.
    The black crumbled away (slightly exaggerated here), separated from the white completely, and the remaining white piece is as flexible and tough as you'd expect of a quality ABS. No crackling, splitting, or wall separation on a 4-trace wide wall thickness (no fill).
    I guess that was just a red herring. Or just characteristics of these particular runs.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I don't know why but I keep forgetting one strange fact when printing the test print on the Cube...
    The extrusion feed and/or the motion velocity do not match up with the current Cube 3 slicer.
    Where I get very loose adhesion on the test print, I get much better adhesion in the following print sent from the library.
    The slicer used for the test print is obviously a much earlier version if you note all the small differences, including this one.

    There must be at least 2 built-in .cube3 files for the test print. Does anyone know how to extract it?
    I'd like to convert it to a point file to see what's changed.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Wow! Remember I said I order a Cube 2 spool of ABS on eBay to test the material?

    The shipment was sitting in the USPS waiting-for-item status for almost a week.
    Challenged the seller on Friday...
    End of day Monday I shoot him another message...
    and yesterday I get a refund!
    Absolutely terrible communication and still no reason for the cancellation!
    Avoid expresstech7 on eBay unless you have more patience than I do.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Let's try again. Ordered up a couple of Cubex cartridges with ABS from a couple of different sellers. I will let you know how much filament these actually hold. This shouldn't be this hard!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Darn, now I'm going to have to find more cart spools!

    Got some info on the Cubex carts though! That belongs in its own thread.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    X-Axis lubrication day!

    My workhorse white cube started kicking up a loud howl when it homed after the nozzle heating procedure commenced.

    I know the original lubrication on the rails appears to be a solid grease.
    However, I've also seen liquid oil in the screw pockets of the rail.

    Today I opted to put some light oil (bike chain oil or sewing machine oil) on the bottom side of the rail only to see if it would quiet things.
    Sure enough, no more squeal.

    Let's see how long it lasts.

  3. #133
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    Ha - I've wondered how long the factory lube on the rails might last.

    At the rate you use yours and I use mine, I reckon I have another 30 years before I have to re-lubricate anything!!

  4. #134
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    Linear rails are normally rated in 1,000's of kilometers or miles.
    The X-rail in particular is highly stressed just through the nozzle interface.
    The Y-interface is not far behind in terms of torture test.
    I suspect dust has worked its way into the carriage.
    I'll let you know how long the gentle "wetting" holds up.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Not sure if this belongs in sagas but I was wondering if one of our own won the $40/USD eBay auction for a well used Cube3?

    I was there ready to up the bid but decided against it at the last minute. Someone got a pretty good deal.

  5. #135
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    Saga: Recently the black oval extruder cover (on the bottom side of the carriage, where the print head tips are exposed) popped loose shortly after starting a print. I heard a snap, clicking, the extruder quit extruding, so I stopped the print. Hm. So I snapped the cover back in place. A while later, it did the same thing again. When it did I was away. The print head dropped down a bit and gouged a nice grid pattern into the build plate.

    Rats! That had been a perfectly smooth plate...

    It appears the tip of the print head presses into a tapered opening in the cover, thus applying a downward force, which eventually caused the cover to pop loose.
    I am using the TD "B2B" printed nozzle assembly; whether that makes a difference, I don't know.

    I decided to relieve the pressure by drilling out the hole in the cover to clear the tip -- figuring that if that turned out bad, I could rotate the cover so the other hole was on the left. (I almost never use the right extruder).

    Result: the tip of the print head protrudes a little further now, but it prints perfectly. And the cover stays put.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Success: The built-in plate leveling function doesn't work so well with my new clear glass plate. It probably would work if I had Lok-Build or something.

    Instead, I manually leveled the plate by raising the bed by hand and blocking it up with a 6 inch block of wood, plus a carpenter's wood shim to fine tune the height. I adjusted the height so that my .150mm gap gage just fit in the center of the plate. Then manually moving the print head carriage and the plate around to the corners, I could measure the adjustments needed to level front to rear and side to side.

    After it was what I considered 'level enough', I ran a little test print to check it:

    Test Print.jpg

  6. #136
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    I just put tape on glass for auto-level, but okay ;p

    Yes, Lokbuild will solve it.

    Remember there are two levels of auto-leveling...

    One is to make up for a really lousy setup and the other is to eliminate F/W correction.

    I don't know how to force the Cube3 to zero the auto-level.
    If you did all this work, and the printer already has an auto-level value, you should get as close to zero compensation first.
    Which of course requires auto-leveling to function.
    ...and it has to be the build plate you will be using (see tape reference above).

    Bottom line, you will see the auto-compensation in your print. Fortunately, you will also hear the auto-compensation while the hotend is traveling.

    Same idea as you have with the test print. Just make a big 6" (OD) square. While printing, listen for very quiet click... this is Z adjusting per the auto-level compensation information stuck in the system.
    Count the ticks across the full 6" length. If you have one or two, your pretty darn close (meaning difficult to get any better).
    But if it ticks every inch or less, you can do a lot better.

    The process is auto-leveling between attempts at adjusting the two pads. I haven't re-leveled mine since I got it down to one tick in 6".

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Sorry for the quiet time on new Cube3 development. I've been working an interesting printing project.

    Do we have Lego fans here? Considering the only motion I can perpetuate is through Lego Mindstorms (Lego Technics).
    I'm finding that making Lego compatible parts is highly dependent on your material.
    For instance, I can print a PLA part and the axle shafts just slide right through...
    Make the same part out of 3DS ABS, and the fit is near perfect.
    Anyway, I've adapted, literally.

    The reason for this post is not about Lego, however.
    I've been hounding eBay for CubeX filament cartridges.
    Obviously I keep an eye on Cube3 price moves too.
    There has been an interesting move in the Cube3 market:
    1) New old stock (NOS) printers are going up into the $300-400 range much of which is allocated to shipping.
    2) A lot of people, or a small group of very committed people are now selling used and new-other printers.
    3) Used printer cost is floating around $100 with a huge shipping bill.
    4) Some new-other sales are reading more like "refurbished" saying just the cartridges were removed. Somehow I doubt that was the only "used" part. These are going for what the bottom was for new printers not 6 months ago.

    Bottom line; be careful what you bid on. We've gone past the NOS depletion from warehouses and now we have the dregs lefts.


    New printers... what do I need for reliability?
    Lokbuild and a bowden solution along with one of several "chip minders".

    I'm going to suggest that these used printers are going to be luck of the draw.
    Be sure to have a strong return policy that won't come out of your pocket.

    Good luck!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Anyone else experiencing seriously slow downloads from thingiverse?

    Not having this issue with any other site.

    Ideas?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Today I learned the weak link in the Cube3 platform...
    It's going to cost all of $1/USD to fix...

    You will find the bearing at the end of the X travel is pretty darn small.
    Actually, they are the same bearing for all 3 motion vectors.

    Remember when I was talking about a squeak?
    Turns out it was one of these bearings giving up the ghost.
    The squeak became very loud clicks.

    If you're good at planning forced maintenance, have some 3x6x2.5mm bearings on hand.

    Now as to how to get to them!

    Got some black PETG to test on the other printer.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    This latest saga resulted in a new post.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Today was a bust on development from lack of time.
    I hope everyone is enjoying this holiday season.

  7. #137
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    Time to upgrade another cartridge to B2B...

    The bulkhead parts were printed with MatterHackers PLA, sliced with Cube Print/Cube3, temperature changed to 220/210 (1st/other layers). They came out very clean, the nuts spun on nicely with no rework.
    P1080303.JPG

    The nozzle parts were printed with 3DS Ekocycle filament, sliced with Cube Print/Ekocycle, converted printer type to Cube 3 and ABS. They printed cleanly, with just a little fuzz inside the nozzle body. The inserts fit nicely with just a touch of sanding. The nuts were very tight, and needed chasing with a triangle file.
    P1080304.JPG

    What a great design! Thank you TommyDee.

    I've worked up a short outline of the conversion procedure, so I can remember how next time I do another one. I need to collect the various links to the detail posts for the different steps. Maybe with some improvement it can be posted as a separate "how to" thread.
    -----------------------
    TomD's (TommyDee at print3dforum.com) B2B Back to Basics cartridge mod


    Drive end
    - keep 3x5 outer tube as is
    - use from cartridge
    - cut 2x3 tube 1" above old bulkhead; strip bulkhead off
    - adjust nut to bring tube close to gear
    - trim 2x3 tube to fit new bulkhead (+-? from top of shell)
    - install 3x5 outer tube and bulkhead
    - glue metal half-moons into place
    - trim outer shell opening for filament feed access
    - assemble shell


    Hot end
    - make sure metal tip is clear of filament (best to do a clean retract during purge cycle)
    - trim 2x3 tubing to 42mm using trim block
    - assemble nozzle: tip, spring, insert; lock with "u" filament


    Bowden tube
    - use 2mm bicycle spoke as madrel to clamp tube in drill
    - cut 2mm wide groove 1mm deep 15mm from end
    - cut to 21 inches
    - cut 2mm groove in other end
    - trim ends to 5mm from end to near edge of groove (use groove trim block)
    - cut 2 ea 2mm pieces of scrap 3x5 tube, slice one side
    - slide nuts on each end, slide the 2mm 'bushings' into grooves


    Assembly
    - screw bowden nuts onto bulkhead and nozzle
    - feed filament to nozzle
    - purge filament

  8. Thanks TommyDee thanked for this post
  9. #138
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    Don't forget this clip... ...crumb... hard to link parts on Thingiverse...

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591654
    clip.PNG
    Last edited by TommyDee; Yesterday at 07:58 AM.

  10. #139
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    Oh, yeah - I overlooked that piece.
    I just used a bent piece of filament...
    Not as neat looking, but plentiful and easy!

  11. #140
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    ...and original

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Oh, the one with 1 slot... it may warp toward the seam at the nozzle end. It is thermally sensitive and I've seen it creep while ABS printing in the Cube3 (PLA nozzle housings). The 3 slots evens out the thermal stresses. In use, the spring doesn't pose the hazard of deformation. Be diligent when removing the hot end hot. I try to pull the filament keeper right away to reduce the spring tension... and from a recently heated nozzle, not one already heat soaked from a recent 8 hour print! All that should make sense but it is always worth saying.

    You have noticed that nozzle removal usually requires heating to remove, right? One of the quirks.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    (trick on the magnets... Put a magnet on the top side to clamp lower one while the goo is curing . . . the film should go to near nothing; I use a dab of Shoe-Goo since it's repairable.) Come to think of it, there is a keeper here somewhere that can place all the magnets. I should revisit that to see if I can find a way to reach the edges for centering in one piece. I do like the plate glass builds using Cube glue.
    Last edited by TommyDee; Today at 06:36 AM.

 

 

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