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  1. #121
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    The black soot is the sacrificial dust coming from the driver gear. It gathers near the magnetic field of the motor.

    The stock tubing also has trouble with this flattening, but for a different reason.
    The stock tubing has the nylon over-mold... this over-mold is the issue as 1/2 the time it is "overheated" when it is added to the stock Teflon tubing.
    This causes deformation and creates the problem you are experiencing. There is no hope for those cartridges.

    Again, the selection of tubing is very limited. Maybe the blue stuff Bo is now selling is better. I offered to review for him but haven't heard back.

    I also get complete junk from China. Some feels like it was put through a rice noodle maker! Literally!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Darn... we don't have a poll feature in this forum
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-12-2018 at 03:07 AM.

  2. #122
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I may have overwatched the review request, pm me your details and I'll send you some samples...

  3. #123
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    It was just a musing. I do wonder what people really want to see from their print in the first layer. Why not let them vote anonymously?

    Along with that musing... are we not here to break the rules of the manual and exceed the mediocre performance of the machine due to manufacturing and design limitations?

    Should be a simple thing to discuss and share with everyone but it is seemingly moot. I just send files to my printer... almost boring. Can't wait to run out of 1kg of cyan.
    Got some pig-pink coming up... 1kg also!
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-12-2018 at 09:21 AM.

  4. #124
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post

    Darn... we don't have a poll feature in this forum

    We do, but only upon creation of a new THREAD.

  5. #125
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    Oh! Thanks.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    @everyone except MegaloDon and G70

    Know this; I do run my Cube 3's at the level of the top image here.
    And it still sticks more than I like to LokBuild with most of my filament choices.
    It also helps keep plastic from building up around the nozzle.
    If you gap the nozzle at 0.25 (very loose on the gap gauge label), you will see what is shown in the top images while printing.

    proper_gap.PNG

    When the .cube3 file is sent to the printer, the file adds 0.25mm gap for PLA and 0.22mm gap for ABS to the preset gap the system uses (now zero).
    So when a gap gauge is at 0.2mm (slight interference on the label in this case) and you add 0.25mm, you get an effective gap of 0.45mm for the 1st layer.
    That is about the diameter of the hole in the nozzle, meaning it will squish a little because the plastic has to turn the corner.
    The 0.45mm dimension is also characteristic as 0.9mm is about the narrowest wall you can define for a out-n-back trace. *

    Also please remember that the final trace width has a lot to do with what the CNC industry is all about... feed and speed.
    This just means that if you slow the machine down while feeding filament at a constant rate, you get a wider trace.
    And likewise, when you slow the speed down and increase your filament feed, you again get a wider trace.
    None of this optimizing should be managed with the 1st layer gap, or even the first 2 layers.

    If Iwant better fused prints, I will increase the filament feed speed.


    Proper_gap_2.PNG

    This too is telling in that there is a HUGE acceptance gap for the 1st layer trace.
    The image is a lot better than some pencil sketch of a few fading lines, don't you think?
    Anyway, I find that even if you start off with a few air gaps between traces on the 1st layer, subsequent layers tend to flatten them out a bit.
    The real challenge is to have a 1st, 2nd, and subsequent layers all have the same or proper dimension.
    If you can reduce post-processing time on your prints, you've either saved yourself time or made more money.
    ...And probably maintain a client or two.


    gripper.PNG

    And a word on the bite of the filament in the driver.
    If you have a filament that seems to click more than you think it should, or your filament driver motor is straining more than normal, have a look here.
    I've modified a filament driver before to account for harder filaments. It just takes some very small, sharp notches in the center of the driver "gear" teeth.

    I love the fact that 3D Systems has a long history with these printers and they are not giving up on their development effort along well established thoughts.
    Scouring their old manuals reveals such excellent information that has dwindled down to a hint at what you might be looking at in current manuals.

    What ever happened to quality manuals anyway?
    Is mediocrity really the way of the world now?

    And to be sure, I am not posting this specifically for the Cube 3. These are universal observations that people have been gathering coming up on 2 decades now.
    We DIY people just seem to want to reinvent the wheel over and over.
    A little research goes a long way to either confirm or deny your convictions.

    The challenge for each of us comes when you know how to release your wrong convictions and embrace those that have been demonstrated to work.
    This silly little printer has had me backtrack a lot of convictions... and I do diligence to correct any error or misleading information as it is available.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-13-2018 at 09:33 PM.

  6. #126
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    Great post. I love tea (green and black) but never considered drinking it during game time. I live where its super hot so lots of water has always been the order. But I'l start trying this out soon. I'm curious to see how well Snapple would work. I know its one of the few pre made teas without high fructose corn syrup and other such ingredients. I would also recommend coconut water from time to time. It can be good for post workouts and also hangover prevention.

 

 

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