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  1. #111
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Yup I can agree on everything, although that's not why it was developed lol

  2. #112
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    They just forgot to test printrbot filament

    Now it is tested.

  3. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    - - - - - - - - - -

    Yesterday had a saga event. Got the new printer from eBay.
    Yep, the plastic piece is cracked... functional but not right.

    0 feedback seller of course. He replied <paraphrase> know nothing about them, so sorry.

    Now to craft feedback for a newbie eBay'r.

    Attachment 2266
    just noticed I got the same crack at the same place, lol, but its working okish

  4. #114
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Ms; My 1st white printer had this and only noticed a month later.
    I had a lot of trouble with dual extruder prints knocking themselves over.
    And before 3DS knew what was about to hit them, they concurred that this is a problem.
    They sent me a new printer, old printer went back for evaluation.
    The replacement developed a strange problem that started chewing up the belt after a strange offset glitch.
    That one too got replaced...

    And this is where they got off track with what is normal for warrantee because they backdated the 3rd printer to the date of the 1st which meant I had only about 2 weeks warrantee left. All! new products in the USA get a 30 day "shakeout" period. So their move was the 1st breech that was unlawful.

    Since then, and since they've been getting away with it, they now consider any purchase from a non-qualified supplier as a liquidation... including cartridges that are still being sold new from various places. So now, nothing from 3DS is a sure thing. every purchase is a risk.


    The only reason I would consider the crack a real issue is when you crash the tray into the head. This could tip the head if the screws into the rail carriage was to slip.
    Overall, as poorly as dual extrusion aligns anyway, it is more a nuisance than a problem.

  5. #115
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Some of mine have the crack, some do not, all print fine so far.

  6. #116
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    Smile

    Sharing my first print ( i did print the boat, just to test the printer and started on a filament respooler when I decided to feed the cartridge from another spool directly).

    So my wife was really impressed by this (NOT ). My youngest girl thinks its cool doh



    It works . Got it from Thingiverse, I actually caused a mess as the pressure my kid used on her tooth paste forced to much to come out when she opened the lid... again; the wife was veeery impressed!

  7. #117
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    You better get more toothpaste!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Someone was asking about a big platform printer that has a single lead-screw in the middle-back of the enclosure.
    There are 4 guide posts that maintain the bed as it goes up and down.

    Found this that explains a lot about the challenges I was expecting them to deal with...

    https://all3dp.com/e3d-bigbox-3d-pri...ic-time-lapse/


    The Cube did better in balancing the z-axis.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Its been awhile since this section deserved a post...
    But today's saga is directed at MeshMixer.

    The previous revision of MM really hosed the support generator.
    It would skip 1/2 the model or would not address specific areas.
    Not just a particular model, but even models that use to generate very nice supports.


    Now MM has a new release. The support now work much better and faster, but the export is hosed.
    Cubify (Cube 3 software) shows a good preview but the print plate shows a small subset of supports only.

    AAAaaaaarrrggggg!!!

    So I import it into 3D Builder and it offers to repair the problem... and it does.

    I am now printing it from 3DB but seriously, what is Autodesk up to with the SW?
    I could import the model into Cubify fine without supports... but a large file with supports fails.

    It may be necessary to let 3DB repair the model and see what comes out of the .3MF file.

    I did read up on the turmoil with MM development but never did I dream they would break it.
    And as to reverting back to previous version (?) ...good luck finding it ...anywhere!

    I will also add here that 3DB has been updated.
    It doesn't ask if you want to update the model anymore after making the print setup.
    It also doesn't open the print queue dialog anymore.
    It also doesn't release when the printer has a "maintenance" dialog on the screen.
    However, it does release the printer once the print file is sent via the USB port next to the power connector.

    Once 3DB fixes the lousy MM file, you can Save-As STL. This file works in Cubify.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 11-11-2017 at 07:39 AM.

  8. #118
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    What about...




    ....some corner...





    ...p0rn!


  9. #119
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    I have been buying the same PC4-M5 nickel plated tube fittings from the same supplier on Amazon for quite a while now.
    My last order came, threw them in a box and thought nothing of it.

    Went to use one of these and sure enough, the hole was undersized so much so that the filament coming out of the filament driver wouldn't go through.
    Okay, so a 2mm drill bit takes care of that, but what the heck!

    Same with some 4mm Bowden tube I just got from Amazon. This was a new supplier but the Teflon tubing was specifically advertised as a Bowden tube for 3D Printing;
    The filament coming out of the Cube3's filament driver would be restricted in the tube enough so that it would cause problems in the long run.

    The message here is to inspect the parts you get when you get them. Don't assume they hadn't changed. I only have one eBay supplier for the tubing that delivers the proper goods every time so far.

    One way to know about the tubing...
    Make a part that has a lot of diamond infill. If the print fails, remove the filament from the Bowden tube (the section between the driver and the hot-end) and see how easy it slides in and out of the tube... or even a fresh tube (not fresh filament, just the 4mm x 2mm tube). If it becomes restrictive anywhere along the 1/2-meter length of the used filament, find a new Teflon tube supplier!

  10. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    One way to know about the tubing...
    Make a part that has a lot of diamond infill. If the print fails, remove the filament from the Bowden tube (the section between the driver and the hot-end) and see how easy it slides in and out of the tube... or even a fresh tube (not fresh filament, just the 4mm x 2mm tube). If it becomes restrictive anywhere along the 1/2-meter length of the used filament, find a new Teflon tube supplier!
    Thanks Tommy for the note! This may explain the issues I've been having with my recent conversion to the FTF feeder and Don's print head replacement.
    I had previously been using the other cube 3D cartridge conversion found on Thingiverse with the adjustable side clamp. This particular setup totally replaced the metal feeder mechanism and used a pair of toothed feed wheels with festoon connectors and stock cartridge tubing. I was able to use that setup for a long time with no issues what-so-ever with the clamps extremely tight. HOWEVER, I did notice some black soot around the two holes at the bottom of the stepper motor housing on the outside of the printer. I haven't seen anyone mention this, so I assume this is something specific to my printer and possibly how much force I was translating back to the stepper.
    What I am curious about is if the stock tubing was forgiving of the squished filament due to the double-toothed feeder setup.
    Now that I have swapped to the new setup, I have been noticing some prints will eventually get the dreaded pop/click, but only occasionally. Some prints with long continuous prints can overcome it and the print turns out fine. But today I experienced a totally failed print where the clicking became excessive and finally took over completely.

    Note: I am printing with ABS on my modified heated bed @ 96C. Since I posted the heated bed mod, I have migrated from Kapton tape to a glass bed and a different glue (rather than cube glue). The glue holds only while the bed is above 70C and I don't experience ABS warping. Also, I have my printer in an acrylic enclosure with a fan that draws the enclosure's air outside.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Here is the Bowden tube I ordered and am using now:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU1R48E...detail_1?psc=1

 

 

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